Ward fixed a problem I have lived with for a long time...

Ian M

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 3, 2001
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Location
Sask. Canada
Very simply, my brain is tilted about 10 degrees or so. Probably not installed properly in my skull or whatever. Bottom line, I cannot line-up a freaking rifle scope horizontally. Or vertically for that matter. Sometimes my scopes are mounted with such a tilt I can see that the top of the elevation turret is sitting wonkie. Even knowing about this inability I cannot accurately compensate for it, I am tilted big time.

Of course my gun-magician buddy simply holds the rifle outward, grabs the scope for three seconds and starts tightening the screws on the rings. He does a perfect job, accurate to 00001" every frigging time. When he looks through a scope I have mounted one of his feet raises off the ground as he tries to get squared away.

Now all is not competely hopeless because there are a couple of tools on the market that give me some relief from this tilted-crosshair syndrome. I use the DeadEye Precision Scope Leveler, Stoney Point gadget and the Reticle Leveler with the little lines on it that attaches with elastic bands and they work but believe it or not I sometimes scew them up and get the crosshairs sloped. Takes a really screwed up eye to booger things with those tools, but I can do it.

Anyhow, Ward at Sniper Tools has fixed my problem. His new tool works for me, I am happy, slept better last night, the world is brighter and a happier place for me at least. Bottom line, this is not a gadget, it is the slickest idea and nobody saw the logic until Ward brought us his C-Level.

I am not in Ward's pocket. I am not promoting this for him. I am not making any money from this. I just want you guys to know that the C-Level procedure is easy and accurate. Some guys might mount a scope perfectly every time, I cannot come close. Now with the C-Level I am confident the scope is mounted perfectly.

How does it work? About simple as I can handle. First my buddy and I stretched about six feet of masking tape on a wall at the range. We used a four foot level to keep the tape horizontal. Then I set my rifle back about 20 yards, it is sitting on a swivel Harris bipod. Then I roughly line the crosshairs with the tape. Then I put the C-Level under the scope, its magnets grab the picatinny rail and it sits nice and solid. Then I hunch down and line the C-Level with the big long tape and tighten the Harris. Then I pinch the rifle upwards on the sandbag at the toe of the butt and line the crosshairs up to the top of the tape. The scope is loose in the rings, I adjust the scope a bit to line the crosshairs as mentioned and then snug the screws so the scope cannot move. Then I torque the scews to 16 inch-pounds and all is done. Slick. Absolutely works. ****, I felt good, knowing I did not scew-up another scope installation. No more ten degrees tilt. Merry Christmas.

I have some images, maybe Ward could put them on the site if he has time.
 
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<snip>... some relief from this tilted-crosshair syndrome.

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Ian, that's really too bad. I knew a girl in high school that had a very serious "OBHTO" syndrome (One boob higher (by 2") than the other).. and I thouht she had a hard life, but, MAN, how do you get by with your shooting friends.

I wish we all could have known this before, cuz we could've tilted our head over when reading your posts, so we could have understood you better.

Life is hard, but it's really hard for those the see it tilted.

My heart goes out to you.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

P.S...

I went to the "Sniper Tools" site, and that tool is absolutly "Brilliant" - it has that "Why didn't I think of that" feeling - it is so simple, and it WILL work on any thing. All that is missing it a bubble level on the scope to take it to the fields.
 
I have always done this with a square steel rod (Key stock)slid into the picatinny rail notch held by an elastic. I also use an elastic to hold one onto the flat surface of the elevation turret. This gives me the ability to use both the crosshairs and the top rod to get the scope level. I also measure the distance between the 2 ends of the bars for confirmation that the scope and rifle a square to each other. Measure twice, tighten once.
 
Ian ,

I'm one who cannot deal w/a canted scope reticle.
Here's how i do mine -hang a straight piece of rope 6' in length in an out of the wind location.This will be your leveling device -gravity doesn't lie.
Place your rifle either on a bipod or in a gun cleaning rest <- that's what i use.If you don't have a flat surface on top of the receiver [weaver rail] i use a level on the butt of the stock.The rifle has to be level in the gun cleaning holder or on the bipod -use a level on the barrel and take into consideration the barrel taper.
Make sure you are lining this up pointed towards your rope!
I've did this off my snack-bar inside the house looking out.
With the rifle level from muzzle to buttstock and side to side line your crosshair up w/the rope making sure not to knock the rifle out of level.
The biggest problem i've had has been while torqueing the screws down ,once the ring begins to bite that friction tends to pull the scope to the torqueing side.The best solution i've come up w/is holding down tightly w/my thumb on top of the ring while doing the tightening.
Here's another tip i found on the www and used.Many rings have adjustments for windage on the rear ring and i like having my scopes in or very near the center of their adjustment clicks.
Place a mirror close to the front of the objective lens of your scope -look into the scope and you'll see the reticle also you'll see the reticles reflection in the mirror.
Turn the turrets until the the reflection lines up w/the image of the reticle--->you're perfectly centered now.
These things take a little time and are a bit tedious but to me well worth it.
This procedure is mainly for windage -not much you can do about elevation if it's off other than shim and i ain't a shimmer and i don't have a ring lapping kit either.
Well best to you'all and Merry Christmas !!!! -Mike
 
Merry Christmas and Happy to New Year to all!

Ian, thank you for your post and also for using my product and sending me those excellent images; they are now posted on my web site. "C-LEVEL AT SNIPER TOOLS"

I wish that I could take all of the credit for it, however
it was my gunsmith Jim Hoag (yes the same Jim Hoag who is well known for building Excellent 1911's and all of my bolt guns who is located in Canoga Park, California 818.998.1510 for those interested) who I got the idea from.

I am also humbled by Cat Shooter's kind words. Thank you Cat Shooter!
 
C-Level

The C-Level is such a simple tool... However the credit goes to "Jim Hogue" of Canoga Park, California. Before relocating to Colorado, Jim built my rifles. He has always used a simple piece of aluminum bar-stock to level the reticles of his customer's scopes. After speaking with him, I designed a "tricker" tool that utilizes a magnet to hold it in place along with a "tongue" that slides into the slots of a Picatinny rail. The top of the C-level also has a two degree slope with the intent of sharpening or cleaning up the edge.

Hogue is a great man who has history going back to the early days of the 1960's, and the customization of 1911's. He was part of the "Armand Swenson era."

Jim Hogue: (818) 998-1510
 
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