SamSpade
Well-Known Member
Has anyone tried the concept of using Mil-Dots for holdover using the power settings to change the dot used? Example as shown in this chart.
Using Mil-Dots with power settings for holdover?
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CatShooter
Well-Known Member
A nice intellectual exercise, but much too complicated for field use.
By the time you range the critter, figure out the drop by the ballistics, then look up the right power to set the scope on, then set the scope to that power... there won't be a critter to shoot.
.
By the time you range the critter, figure out the drop by the ballistics, then look up the right power to set the scope on, then set the scope to that power... there won't be a critter to shoot.
.
royinidaho
Well-Known Member
I spent 2 years in that phase. I then found myself sticking to either 10X where the Mil Dots were calibrated and 14X and a chart such as yours. It was a good learning curve.
My problem is that my brain jumbles up when there is hair in the scope and not much time for a shot. I would almost always revert back to "well, right about there" and launch the shot. My ol' knoggin just couldn't handle the workload when more than one power was used w/the mil dot.
I have since made my own turret tape calibrated to my actual field test drops out to about 1100 yds. Now its like GG says in his signature line except for the dump'em part. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif
My problem is that my brain jumbles up when there is hair in the scope and not much time for a shot. I would almost always revert back to "well, right about there" and launch the shot. My ol' knoggin just couldn't handle the workload when more than one power was used w/the mil dot.
I have since made my own turret tape calibrated to my actual field test drops out to about 1100 yds. Now its like GG says in his signature line except for the dump'em part. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif
That is exactly what I do but ONLY for 24x
My scope has only two settings, as far as I'm concerned.
It is on the lowest setting until a target is sighted, then I either take a quick shot, assuming no time or the target is close, OR the scope goes to max magnification.
It keeps your chart much less cluttered and less room for error. Generally no compensation is needed for shots closer than 150 yards unless you are zeroed waaay out there.
edge.
My scope has only two settings, as far as I'm concerned.
It is on the lowest setting until a target is sighted, then I either take a quick shot, assuming no time or the target is close, OR the scope goes to max magnification.
It keeps your chart much less cluttered and less room for error. Generally no compensation is needed for shots closer than 150 yards unless you are zeroed waaay out there.
edge.
SamSpade
Well-Known Member
You guys are assuming that I want to carry the whole chart with me. The chart that I carry is condensed to just yardage, power and dot. Can't be any slower that clicking?
200-24X1
250-23x2
200-24X1
250-23x2
Gustavo
Well-Known Member
I think the concept is interesting, but as a rule I use the MilDots at the power setting the mfrg. says and then avoid a lot of trouble.
In fact, my own ballistics software has 22 reticles styles to show a graphical depiction of the "holdover" values for each stadia linea, of course, at the right setting.
In fact, my own ballistics software has 22 reticles styles to show a graphical depiction of the "holdover" values for each stadia linea, of course, at the right setting.
300rum
Well-Known Member
Dear SamSpade,
What you tryed to do IS NOT WORKING IN THE FIELD.
I use the same like others guys, 2 power in my scope 16X for shoots past 800yards and 10x in close range.
I already develope a drop chart for holdovers in MILS and it is stick on my stock, and another one in my inside cover cap for scope.
K.I.S. this is the way to go (Kip IT SIMPLE).
I develop my self a excel file for my PALM, where i just insert all the variables and I got the holdovers in mils or click for X power scope.
If you need it shoot me one email. THE EXCELL FILE USED ALSO THE SLOPE CORRETION, tem, elev, wind, etc... all variables from EXbal.
Chris
[email protected]
What you tryed to do IS NOT WORKING IN THE FIELD.
I use the same like others guys, 2 power in my scope 16X for shoots past 800yards and 10x in close range.
I already develope a drop chart for holdovers in MILS and it is stick on my stock, and another one in my inside cover cap for scope.
K.I.S. this is the way to go (Kip IT SIMPLE).
I develop my self a excel file for my PALM, where i just insert all the variables and I got the holdovers in mils or click for X power scope.
If you need it shoot me one email. THE EXCELL FILE USED ALSO THE SLOPE CORRETION, tem, elev, wind, etc... all variables from EXbal.
Chris
[email protected]
300rum
Well-Known Member
Catshooter is right about the time what do you have to shoot.
For my self with my rifle 300 rum and 200gr AB, I setup my zero at 300yards, and from 50 yards to 350yard i'm aiming the same.
at 50yards the POI is 3.5 inch low, at 100 yards 3.5 high, 200yards 1.5high 300 - zero 350yards - -3.8low.
So in this range I did not bother about clicking or holdovers at big game. Just range it - aim it and - press the trigger.
You have to find your best zero point for your ammo to give you the maximum distance where you can shoot whitout clicking, or zeroing.
Just my advice.
Chris
For my self with my rifle 300 rum and 200gr AB, I setup my zero at 300yards, and from 50 yards to 350yard i'm aiming the same.
at 50yards the POI is 3.5 inch low, at 100 yards 3.5 high, 200yards 1.5high 300 - zero 350yards - -3.8low.
So in this range I did not bother about clicking or holdovers at big game. Just range it - aim it and - press the trigger.
You have to find your best zero point for your ammo to give you the maximum distance where you can shoot whitout clicking, or zeroing.
Just my advice.
Chris
SamSpade
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
Dear SamSpade,
What you tryed to do IS NOT WORKING IN THE FIELD.
I use the same like others guys, 2 power in my scope 16X for shoots past 800yards and 10x in close range.
I already develope a drop chart for holdovers in MILS and it is stick on my stock, and another one in my inside cover cap for scope.
K.I.S. this is the way to go (Kip IT SIMPLE).
I develop my self a excel file for my PALM, where i just insert all the variables and I got the holdovers in mils or click for X power scope.
If you need it shoot me one email. THE EXCELL FILE USED ALSO THE SLOPE CORRETION, tem, elev, wind, etc... all variables from EXbal.
Chris
[email protected]
[/ QUOTE ]
Chris, These calculations are using an Excel spreadsheet that I developed. I also have ExcelBal on a Palm Pilot that is very hard to use and see in the field. I have a drop chart taped to my stock also. If this approach using power settings an mil-dots doesn't work please explain why? KISS stands for Keep It Simple Stupid, this is as simple as it gets! All you do is punch is your drop and everything beyond that is calculated for you!
Dear SamSpade,
What you tryed to do IS NOT WORKING IN THE FIELD.
I use the same like others guys, 2 power in my scope 16X for shoots past 800yards and 10x in close range.
I already develope a drop chart for holdovers in MILS and it is stick on my stock, and another one in my inside cover cap for scope.
K.I.S. this is the way to go (Kip IT SIMPLE).
I develop my self a excel file for my PALM, where i just insert all the variables and I got the holdovers in mils or click for X power scope.
If you need it shoot me one email. THE EXCELL FILE USED ALSO THE SLOPE CORRETION, tem, elev, wind, etc... all variables from EXbal.
Chris
[email protected]
[/ QUOTE ]
Chris, These calculations are using an Excel spreadsheet that I developed. I also have ExcelBal on a Palm Pilot that is very hard to use and see in the field. I have a drop chart taped to my stock also. If this approach using power settings an mil-dots doesn't work please explain why? KISS stands for Keep It Simple Stupid, this is as simple as it gets! All you do is punch is your drop and everything beyond that is calculated for you!
SamSpade
Well-Known Member
300RUM, I want to be a little more precise than that. My interest is shooting chucks and prairie dogs with one shot out to 600 yards. With big game you have 18" to play with but in varmint shooting you have half of that.
guns_and_labs
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
A nice intellectual exercise, but much too complicated for field use.
By the time you range the critter, figure out the drop by the ballistics, then look up the right power to set the scope on, then set the scope to that power... there won't be a critter to shoot.
.
[/ QUOTE ]
+1. Too much fiddling.
That's why I moved over to a fixed power (or just leaving it at max) and guessing what 2.4 mils is. Or move over to one of the more detailed reticles (TMR, Holland, etc.).
A nice intellectual exercise, but much too complicated for field use.
By the time you range the critter, figure out the drop by the ballistics, then look up the right power to set the scope on, then set the scope to that power... there won't be a critter to shoot.
.
[/ QUOTE ]
+1. Too much fiddling.
That's why I moved over to a fixed power (or just leaving it at max) and guessing what 2.4 mils is. Or move over to one of the more detailed reticles (TMR, Holland, etc.).
With Exbal or other good programs it is relatively easy to use multiple mil dot or TDS holdovers.
I use a 3-9 TDS and have two power settings and can go to 800 in a 300 WSM. My brother has a 6-18x TDS with 300 hart (180 at 3250) and he can go to 900 with 2 power settings.
All that is required is one laminated card (credit card size) and you are good to go. Also, easy to run another program and card for temp and elevation changes such as a major hunt etc.
It is a fast, simple and almost fool proof way to go for anything up to around 800.
BH
I use a 3-9 TDS and have two power settings and can go to 800 in a 300 WSM. My brother has a 6-18x TDS with 300 hart (180 at 3250) and he can go to 900 with 2 power settings.
All that is required is one laminated card (credit card size) and you are good to go. Also, easy to run another program and card for temp and elevation changes such as a major hunt etc.
It is a fast, simple and almost fool proof way to go for anything up to around 800.
BH
300rum
Well-Known Member
Hi,
Sorry guys... I got in to manny situation, when I was like you(no offense) using chart for different power scope (10, 14, 16, 20X) and I got confused in field, missing the target.
The MILDOT is working great for me I LIKE MILDOT and I USED IT all the time. FAST shooting, and no mixing up rifle zeroing.
I am a adept of MILDOT for ranging and correction windage and elevation.
The only think where you have to be carefull is WHEN YOU HAVE A CHART FOR DIFFERENT POWER SCOPE, TO DO NOT GET CONFUSE AND USE THE WRONG VALUES. This can get in missing the target.
It was happend with me last fall, all spring and summer I was exercise at 300-800yards, with diff power scope, and in fall I miss my bear (at 350yards) because of wrong power scope. I got confused, and I read the values for 16x and my scope it was on 14x.
Sometime the games it not give you the right time, and you have to take quick decision.
From my experience I learned to use just 2 power for close range and long range .
Chris
Sorry guys... I got in to manny situation, when I was like you(no offense) using chart for different power scope (10, 14, 16, 20X) and I got confused in field, missing the target.
The MILDOT is working great for me I LIKE MILDOT and I USED IT all the time. FAST shooting, and no mixing up rifle zeroing.
I am a adept of MILDOT for ranging and correction windage and elevation.
The only think where you have to be carefull is WHEN YOU HAVE A CHART FOR DIFFERENT POWER SCOPE, TO DO NOT GET CONFUSE AND USE THE WRONG VALUES. This can get in missing the target.
It was happend with me last fall, all spring and summer I was exercise at 300-800yards, with diff power scope, and in fall I miss my bear (at 350yards) because of wrong power scope. I got confused, and I read the values for 16x and my scope it was on 14x.
Sometime the games it not give you the right time, and you have to take quick decision.
From my experience I learned to use just 2 power for close range and long range .
Chris
300rum
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
300RUM, I want to be a little more precise than that. My interest is shooting chucks and prairie dogs with one shot out to 600 yards. With big game you have 18" to play with but in varmint shooting you have half of that.
[/ QUOTE ]
Sorry,
Yes now it makes sense.
Regarding my previous post of zeroing the rifle at 300 and aim the same between 50 - to - 350yard it will not work for small games PD.
You have to use Exbal to see for your speciffic load what ar the holdovers in MILS for diferent distance.
I'm so sorry for my mistake.
last Saturday I was at the range, and I was tunup the rifle for spring season, and using the mildot I was hitting all the time a popcan at 50, 100, 200, 300 yards. (at 16x power zoom) from bypod and rear sand bag.
If you know your rifle, with proper training you can use MILDOT TECHNIQUES without using the chart or exbal.
Chris
300RUM, I want to be a little more precise than that. My interest is shooting chucks and prairie dogs with one shot out to 600 yards. With big game you have 18" to play with but in varmint shooting you have half of that.
[/ QUOTE ]
Sorry,
Yes now it makes sense.
Regarding my previous post of zeroing the rifle at 300 and aim the same between 50 - to - 350yard it will not work for small games PD.
You have to use Exbal to see for your speciffic load what ar the holdovers in MILS for diferent distance.
I'm so sorry for my mistake.
last Saturday I was at the range, and I was tunup the rifle for spring season, and using the mildot I was hitting all the time a popcan at 50, 100, 200, 300 yards. (at 16x power zoom) from bypod and rear sand bag.
If you know your rifle, with proper training you can use MILDOT TECHNIQUES without using the chart or exbal.
Chris
