turning necks on weatherby brass

[Edd]

21st century list a cutter #46 (edited and #30 ) for all weatherbys . im guessing its rounded or more round .

http://nebula.wsimg.com/2a18b7b0054...5AA0C95BD1D877538&disposition=0&alloworigin=1

They have a few different cutters listed for Weatherby cartridges. According to the specs, none of them have a radius grind. The part number reflects the shoulder angle they have.

The 21st Century cutters can't be reshaped by most people but you could buy a different brand and reshape them with a radius.

 

[DUSTY NOGGIN]

They have a few different cutters listed for Weatherby cartridges. According to the specs, none of them have a radius grind. The part number reflects the shoulder angle they have.

The 21st Century cutters can't be reshaped by most people but you could buy a different brand and reshape them with a radius.

ya i assumed, that 46 and 30 was a part number not a degree angle , my mistake

i think the point would be to lessen the abrupt difference between cut and original thickness, so not to give it a breaking point

if using a bushing die , alot of time that busing doesnt drop all the way down to the shoulder, that space is the donut free zone .. so there is some variance there , until the brass flows into that bushing area, it should remain donut free .. you have that amount of space to create your transistion , "whether it be" radius or the most gradual angle you can fit in that space ..



if you are using a full length sizer die , you need to cut all the way to the shoulder but not be into it

if you are using bushing dies , you have a little more room to work with , but the father you stay way from the shoulder the sooner the donuts can happen

bushing sized to this