True 100yds or MPBR zero

[HDTony]

Was wondering what most people do. Sight in for true zero or sight in for max point blank range?

I'm new to target turrets and have always hunted with sighting in for MPBR and adjusting from there and not sure what way to go from here.

Thanks for any input
Tony

 

[kcebcj]

I prefer MPBR with a drop chart starting from there.

 

[Broz]

I sight in @ 500 then back the turret down what my program or drop chart called for at 500 and zero the elevation turret. I don't worry about an inch or two at 100.

Jeff

 

[Buffalobob]

It depends on the kind of hunting I am doing. If I am using a dedicated long range rifle I set my zero at 100 yards and dial everything.

If I am hunting in the woods and small openings I will still start with a 100 yard zero but then I will spin the turret up to 300 yards and hunt with it set that way. When I am through hunting, I will spin it back down to 100 yards (if I remember).

I find it comforting to have all my rifles set up the same way so I am not scratching my head trying to remember how the rifle is set up when it is time to shoot.

 

[J E Custom]

Tony

MPBR has been around a long time and is still used by a lot of
hunters that generally shoot/hunt 100Yrds to 400 yrds at
big game (Kill area around 10 to 12 Inches).

With the advent of range finders the need for MPBR has diminished
and accuracy at all distance is better with a droup chart and a good
rangefinder.

I normaly zero at 200 and turrent up from there .but a 100yard zero
makes a lot of sense if you use a range finder and a good drop chart.

Also with a big slow bullet with lots of drop the MPBR doesent work
very well but the drop chart and range finder method does.

MPBR works best with very flat shooting calibered rounds(Like the
7mm STW).

J E CUSTOM

 

[Boss Hoss]

On my hunting rifles I use 300 then check it at 600 and 100 just to make sure that the Oehler is correct. Mine are all customs that will shoot .4 MOA or better so I know that the results are pretty much dead on. Each range gets a 5 shot group to verify. Do this with my competition rifles as well but those ranges are 600 and 1K.

 

[badaboom]

I use MPBR and drop chart and SHOOT. Then shoot more to insure that this is all true.
I'm zeroed @ 336 yards I'm pretty much good out to about 0 - 370 yards MPBR.
I test and check utilizing kentucky windage and elevation from that point further.
currently out to 550 yards.

Most of the time I don't have alot of time to perform CLICK setting in Hunting situations.

I think if I were to do very long range that the
Broz
I sight in @ 500 then back the turret down what my program or drop chart called for at 500 and zero the elevation turret. may be a better way to go.
Seems to make since

Start to insure grouping at 100 yards then look over ballistic chart for the
Bullet weight, Load, Velocity and Trajectory.
Then get the bullet to land @ 100 yards to be zeroed at desired down range for dead on ZERO for the down range zero you desire.
Example: 6.7 inches high @ 100 yards to be zeroed @ 400 yards
Then shoot and shoot and shoot, trigger and scope time will only make you a better shooter.
Remember the wind my friend... .. .

BEST OF LUCK.

 

[HDTony]

Thanks for the info all. you backed up what I was thinking. I will do my normal MPBZ range of 5" up and down then use my drop charts / range finder from there. We will see how it comes out in Wyoming this year in Oct for my 2 doe fawn speed goat tags then in Arizona in Dec for my cow elk hunt.

Thanks
Tony

 

[edge]

Where to zero is a personal choice, but I feel that folks don't spend enough time deciding on it

Certainly if all of your shots will be close then there is no reason for a long range zero.

I on the other hand I hunt terrain where a shot may come at 5 yards but at a fields edge, I might be able to see deer at very long range. A close deer may require a quick shot so I prefer no adjustments out to any distance that may require a range finder.

I started hunting with a bow so have always tried to hit the heart on a deer. This works great since it is very low in the body on a standing deer.

Using a ballistic program I like to use 9 or 10 inches as the MPBR, which many folks say is too large, but let me explain
This gives me a fairly long zero range, with my muzzleloader this is right around 300 yards.
My reasoning for such a zero is that I can easily tell if a deer is at 150 or 250, but not always further reliably.
When a deer gets out that far I will most likely be using a range finder, but if a deer is under 300 there is no need.
If a deer is ranged, then compensation can be made for a longer range impact.

Now the nice thing about a long zero and a heart shot is that if the deer is at the bullets maximum height, 4 1/2 or 5 inches above the line of sight, then the worst case is a high shoulder hit, something that lots of folks like anyway

My way of thinking is that from zero out to 300+ yards I get heart, top of heart, or high shoulder...all without any thought as to the trajectory.
This system works for someone that aims for the heart as their natural point of aim and takes most guesswork out of range estimation.

If instead, I were to use a 100 yard zero then at 300 yards I would be almost 10 inches low.

edge.

PS I should have noted that I do not use the bottom of the MPBR, but only the top which keeps my theoretical bullet path +- 2 1/2 inches. This is without regard to the rifles MOA ability, mine, also the available field rest.

 

[britz]

I too sight in for about 220 with a 300 mag. That way if I see anything within 250 I can aim right at the heart and it should land good. I figure that anything farther will take more aim time and won't be a big deal to adjust the aimpoint. I will "hold over" for up to 400 and beyond that I will dial. I hate sighting in at 100 simply because If I get a little excited and shoot at one at 250 in a hurry nothing good can come of it because the bullet will be pretty low imho. The bullet stays within a 5-6 in radius out to 250 or so (with a 220 sight in) and that is my preference.

 

[isaaccarlson]

Just label your turrets for 100, 200, 300, 400, etc... You can include the 50's as well if you want more precision. Then you just dial to your range. No counting clicks or messing with charts. Your scope is zeroed for all ranges if you label the turret.

 

[SBruce]

Thanks for the info all. you backed up what I was thinking. I will do my normal MPBZ range of 5" up and down then use my drop charts / range finder from there. We will see how it comes out in Wyoming this year in Oct for my 2 doe fawn speed goat tags then in Arizona in Dec for my cow elk hunt.

Thanks
Tony

I don't know if you've hunted doe/fawn antelope before, but they really aren't very big. If it were me, I'd personally use something more along the lines of 3" rather than 5" for PBR...........give yourself a little "wobble" room.

3" up/down usually keeps you in the vitals without damaging backstraps (the best part of an antelope IMO). And gets you out to 300 - 350 depending on cartridge/load. In my experience, anything beyond 350 it really pays to take your time, get steady and carefully mind the wind. 15-20 mph winds are pretty common here in this part of Wyoming.