Tikka T3x milti-cal build- advice, and opinions welcome

[ptssoloutions]

Hi there, fairly new to posting here, but try to read a lot. I have a stainless Tikka T3x in 6.5CM that I'm thinking of using as the basis for this build with a West Texas Ordnance switch lug. I understand the action length is one size and that the bolt stop, bottom metal, and bolt face are the swappable items to make it fire different cartridges (key word there is understand, but I will say that I've never built one). I'd REALLY like to build one gun that has the ability to fire different cartridges that are on the extremes of the spectrum- think of 6mm ARC on the bottom end, and maybe something like 338 Sherman something (I can't keep them all straight) on the top end. And yes, maybe something "typical" in the middle like 308 or 6.5 CM. Just my opinion here, but I just feel it's a little silly to build a gun that shoots 2 or 3 cartridges that are barely different such as a 308 AND a 6.5CM, or 300WM AND 300PRC, etc. All this with the least amount of confusing, redundant, or proprietary parts specific to one cartridge only. I'm open to the overall build direction being either something like a skeletonized chassis (ultradyne UD5, with a folding stock attachment of some kind of comes to mind), or a more conventional, yet modern stock like an AG composites or Manners that has some degree of adjustability of cheek weld and/or length of pull with a fairly vertical grip. I am looking both for opinions and an ingredients list here. I've looked at some things and, 1. Get overwhelmed, 2. Find 1 product on this website, 2 on that website, 4 on another website, etc, and by the time I think I may have it figured out, I'm back to where I started.
I don't really have a weight in mind, but it would be used for hunting and target shooting. Something in the 8-10 (ish) pound range seems good (scoped, which I know is a whole other ball of wax). Realistically, the furthest I would plan to shoot would be 600-800 yards on targets, with some practice with the unit, maybe out to 600 on game. Game would commonly include coyotes, Texas Whitetail, and hogs, hopefully some time elk or moose in the future. I plan to reload in the future, but currently don't. I prefer the more modern cartridges in general (have all the PRC's) vs the old. I know, they shoot fine too, but they're getting older as you read this. I think I'd prefer to have one bolt assembly, but would consider 2 if the cartridges were appealing and different enough due to expense- think I saw Tikka replacement bolts on Mountain Tactical, or Oregon Mountain for like $475, I probably bought the whole gun for $700, so that just seemed high to me.
My experience level- I've built a handful of ARs. Mount my own scopes (lapped and leveled). Swapped some triggers and polished a few factory ones. Changed stocks on a few things. Don't have a barrel vise, but wouldn't mind buying one! No machining experience myself, but have a pretty extensive set of hand tools for smithing.
SO.... what do you think? Crazy is an acceptable answer.
What 2 or 3 cartridges would you consider?
What's your full build list? As specific as possible would be very helpful.
And where could I find the most parts for this build in one place?
Thanks for any input!

 

[HandgunHTR]

While you certainly can do this, my advice is that if you want three different guns then build or buy three different guns.

What works well for a 6ARC probably won't be suitable for a .338 Sherman Mega. Also, by the time you assemble all the various components to make each of these work (bolt, barrel, optics, magazines) you will have spent the equivalent of a reasonable semi-custom or higher end factory offering.
Additionally, based on the criteria that you provided (steel/targets to 800 and game to 600) a 6.5 or 6 Creedmoor, 6.5PRC, 260AI, 7-08AI, or even a plain-jane 308 would do what you wanted it to do.

Last word on the Tikkas, while they are great to build off of (I have 5) bolts are expensive, so you are better off just buying 3 actions rather than 2 new bolts to use with your one action. Also, the 6ARC will need to have bolt work done on it anyway (either opening up a .223 bolt, or bushing a .308 bolt), so you are better off going with either a custom action or just customizing a Howa Mini action that already has the correct bolt-face.

 

[Tiny Tim]

My advice is if you really desire to go down this road would be to pick two calibers with the same boltface that may use the same bottom metal and mags. This allows you to "get in the game" without the expense of multiple bolts, mags, and bottom metals; only requires a second barrel. If you truly like the platform, then you can add a third.

As @HandgunHTR stated, what works for the smallest cartridge may not work for the largest, and visa versa.

I agonized over all the details of my first couple of builds. Eventually, you find the things you like and are able to cut through all of the options to get to what you want. It just takes time, thought, and lots of money.

 

[grouse]

Think about an action with bolt heads that can be swapped. You'll need entirely different bolts on the tikka.

 

[Ckleeves]

Think about an action with bolt heads that can be swapped. You'll need entirely different bolts on the tikka.

X2! Something like a Zermatt with 3 bolt heads is cheaper then a Tikka with 3 bolts.

 

[DLJ6]

Ive done a couple "switch" barrel rigs based on the Rem783, just to teach myself the process with an inexpensive platform. That being said once I get a barrel shooting well, I am always reluctant to take it off.
I also pulled a 300WSM barrel off of a tikka action because I didn't care for the recoil. I replaced it with a eBay 270 WSM take off and it shoots great. As others have posted I would stick with cartridges that share the same bolt face and then pick up a Howa for the 6 Arc. To each is own though, like any other hobby, you can make it as technical or a simple as fits your mood and skill.

 

[bultinkle]

You don't need a switch lug, you can do it with tikka shouldered barrels

But make sure your biggest cartridge will work well in a tikka

 

[azsugarbear]

I did this very thing four years ago. No need for a switch lug - just the normal shouldered barrels. All Tikka actions are the same size, so I just made sure I had a long action bolt stop and magazine. I went with the Proof Research carbon fiber pre-fit barrels as they were a bargain at the time (today, not so much). My first barrel was a 20" barrel in 6.5 PRC. My second was a 24" in 300 WSM. These two cover just about everthing. I use a a Viper barrel vise and a Tikka action wrench. Pretty quick and painless to switch out the barrels.

The advantages were: 1) cost savings: prefit barrels (cheaper than buying and maching blanks); no cost for additional scopes or stocks.
2) less storage required in my safe (getting pretty full). 3) Familiarity with the same set up for each caliber such as eye relief, scope function, trigger pull, etc. The few negatives: 1) The time it takes to switch barrels (not a big deal to me as I love to work/tinker with rifles). 2) the need to rezero scope when you switch calibers. The positives seemed to outweigh the negatives. It was a "no brainer" for me.

 

[FireFlyFishing]

I like Tikka rifles a lot. I wouldn't recommend you go this route. Buy more rifles. Save time and money in the long run.

 

[marshalldodge]

I started to do this about 3 years ago. The two calibers were going to be 223 and 6mm Dasher.

Purchased the action, two bolts with the needed bolt faces, and had the gunsmith put on a 223 Krieger barrel. While shopping for the Dasher barrel, I started shooting the rifle and like it so much, I have never taken it apart even though I now have a Dasher barrel.

 

[osok-1k]

I was going to do something similar with WTO. I have a T3X in 308 and was going to do a switch lug 280AI or the 7mm SAW for a 160ish bullet. I talked with them by phone and it was going to cost over $1k to do the work which is more than a decent complete rifle. Not worth it to me.

 

[ptssoloutions]

Well, I appreciate all the input so far!
Maybe the whole switch barrel thing sounds cool, but doesn't really pan out in the "real world".
Are there any out there that have success stories of building a switch barrel setup who love them, and at least now and then swap them out to different cartridges? Even if the build parameters aren't as I described earlier.

 

[azsugarbear]

Like I said earlier - I love mine and would do it again in a heart beat. Easy to switch out barrels - with no worry about head spacing issues. In fact, I'm currently considering a third barrel. I just can't decide on the caliber.

 

[Idaho Lefty]

I like Tikka rifles a lot. I wouldn't recommend you go this route. Buy more rifles. Save time and money in the long run.

Yup, ^^ Tikka Rifles are so Cheap,. just Buy TWO of them and,. SKIP the Switch Barrel, "idea", as once you get One "Dialed In" and shootin', "Well",..
you WON'T want to,. take it, apart ! ( Very Few guys, EVER, take them, Apart ! )
Buy a .270 WSM or, 7MM Rem Mag, and It will Kill every Big Game animal you want out to 700- 800 Yards and WITHOUT too much, Recoil !
Buy a 6.5 Creedmoor for, Deer/ Yotes and Steel Practice and Enjoy Life, without, the "Headache's" !
A Good Tikka 7.5 / 8 pound Hunting Rifle, will Shoot into 3/4 MOA or,. LESS ( w/ Handloads ) so SAVE your Money FOR,. Ammo / Practice and,..
Two, REAL Good, Scopes.
Just the Opinion of, an Ole Gunsmith with,. 60 Years of, Big Game Hunting, experience.