The build is back from the smith, where do i go from here?

Alibiiv

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2013
Messages
2,032
Location
Rhode Island
The build is back from the gunsmith, where do I go from here? This is my first wildcat build so have some questions. I don't mind spending money to buy equipment/tools, however the budget is not unlimited. I do not believe in buying things twice because "I" didn't do my homework before making the purchase. I did the build on a Ruger 77, tang safety in .270 Ackley Improved. I'm planning on hunting (300-500 yards) and fun precision shooting at the range. Looking for help figuring out where to go from here.

I am certainly not new to reloading and have all the basic equipment for reloading, just do not have any experience reloading for a wildcat cartridge. What I do have: a good set of dial calipers, Hornady/Sinclair case OAL tool to measure shoulder bump, Hornady/Sinclair tool to measure COAL to measure bullet distance from lands, a Forster neck turning tool for the Original Foster case trimmer, two precision reloading manuals, and a Hornady concentricity tool where the jury is out with the concentricity tool. I have around 200 cases of once fired Federal brass and a good assortment of .270 bullets. And...lastly I do have glass and mounts.

I know that I am going to need dies. I did a thread on the Forum already as to what to get for dies, but still undecided because there are lots of options making a decision a bit confusing. From what I gathered from replies to the thread it appears that I ought to buy certain dies, from different makers, to get certain reloading operations done when reloading; micrometer seat dies/collet dies/non-mandrel dies. I am thinking hydroform dies to get the shoulders out. From all of the posts that I have read and from personal experience I know that good dies are key to precision reloading.

I'd just like to get opinions/input on reader's/reloader's experiences with their first-time builds, what they encountered, and what/how they went about getting what they needed for their build; good and bad. Any information is appreciated.
 
Well, it seems you have a couple things to do in parallel. One is to fire form brass and the other is to break in the barrel.

To fire form brass choose a starting load and seat the bullet long so it is contacting the rifling. This will ensure the base of the case is against the bolt face. I'm not a fan of Federal brass or Hornady brass because it doesn't last for too many firings. If I were you I would first try using the same 20 pieces of Federal brass to see how many times you can load it before using the rest of the brass
 
Well, it seems you have a couple things to do in parallel. One is to fire form brass and the other is to break in the barrel.

To fire form brass choose a starting load and seat the bullet long so it is contacting the rifling. This will ensure the base of the case is against the bolt face. I'm not a fan of Federal brass or Hornady brass because it doesn't last for too many firings. If I were you I would first try using the same 20 pieces of Federal brass to see how many times you can load it before using the rest of the brass

Thanks for your input on the brass. I feel the same about the Federal brass. I got a really good deal on the brass, figured that I was going to have a learning curve and didn't want to waste good brass to begin with. Nosler .270 Winchester brass is pretty much always available, will pick some up once I know where I am going with this project.
 
I agree on the federal brass, if it's like the rest it will be soft.
As far as dies I have several sets of Whiddens for my Wildcats and there awesome. The last 2 i have got the click adjustable and having a seater made with the chamber reamer.
 
I agree on the federal brass, if it's like the rest it will be soft.
As far as dies I have several sets of Whiddens for my Wildcats and there awesome. The last 2 i have got the click adjustable and having a seater made with the chamber reamer.

I've looked at the Whidden dies, I believe that they make the hydroform dies. I don't have the reamer, but do have a blueprint of the reamer. I was planning on fire forming some brass and sending the brass along with the blueprint of the reamer to them as Whidden recommends. Does the click-adjustment take the place of the micrometer seating die, or are you writing about the full-length sizing die with a click adjustment to adjust shoulder bump?
 
Warning! This thread is more than 6 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top