I have never shot the A frames but from the pictures they look the same as the partition but more expensive. Are they worth the price difference? I'm looking for the best up close and personal hunting bullet for sure knockdown power. 30 cal and smaller. with less than 50 yards.
Swift A Frame versus Nosler Partition
- Thread starter 300 ultra
- Start date
Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
J E Custom
Well-Known Member
I use and like the nosler partition on some of my high velocity rifles from 338 down.
Where I like to use the Swift A Frame is on dangerous game rifles like the 416s.
On the small rifles I would use the Partition for shoulder shots and the accubonds
for behind the shoulder shots and the ballistic tip for extremely long shots because
they will expand in soft tissue at distances beyond 800 yards.
There are lots of other fine bullets to chose from but picking the right bullet for the
game and distance is very important .
Just my 2 cent's
J E CUSTOM
the a frame is an outstanding bullet. the partition is a much older and proven bullet. i really don't think you'd go wrong with either but for up close, sturdiness, the a frame is a stronger bullet because, if I recall correctly, it is also bonded. for me, the partition has been more accurate and really easy to load, but for your shot distances, it doesn't look like precise accuracy is a concern (50 yards).
At that distance, I'd opt for the Barnes TTSX myself. I favor the TSX and TTSX over either of the above mentioned, especially at closer ranges. They blow through both shoulders (as would the other 2 as well) but I really really like the Barnes. The A frame also has a solid copper jacket, so fouling would be no different than the Barnes. At least that is my experience.
I've seen what all 3 do up close on deer and bears. Looking back, the results were all the same: a dead animal. That said, the bears and deer that were killed with the Barnes all dropped at the shot. The same is not true for the other 2 but that really doesn't mean much.
Calibers were 300 Win mag, 270, 300 RUM, 30.06, and 7mm Rem mag.
At that distance, I'd opt for the Barnes TTSX myself. I favor the TSX and TTSX over either of the above mentioned, especially at closer ranges. They blow through both shoulders (as would the other 2 as well) but I really really like the Barnes. The A frame also has a solid copper jacket, so fouling would be no different than the Barnes. At least that is my experience.
I've seen what all 3 do up close on deer and bears. Looking back, the results were all the same: a dead animal. That said, the bears and deer that were killed with the Barnes all dropped at the shot. The same is not true for the other 2 but that really doesn't mean much.
Calibers were 300 Win mag, 270, 300 RUM, 30.06, and 7mm Rem mag.
Thanks for the responces, the reason I ask is I aquired a new hunting spot that borders Indian land and I dont want to get even close to the boundary. Mule deer is the animal and my primary hunting rifles are 300 RUM and 270 win.
Oh. Well, it's more about shot placement than bullet choice to a degree. Obviously you still want a good bullet and the 3 mentioned will all work. Pop the deer in the shoulder with whichever bullet works best in your rifle. Since mule deer is the game, let me tell you this, the Aframe is a really tough bullet. And, a buddy was using factory Remington ammo on whitetails in KS with me in his 300 win mag. The Aframes he used were 200 grains but they shot well in his rifle. He shot a buck at about 45-50 yrds and it ran a long ways. It may be too tough for deer unless you hit some bone.
In your situation, I'd load a TSX and square that shoulder in the upper third region and watch them drop.
Autorotate19
Well-Known Member
I agree the the a frame is a little too tough for mule deer. Out of the two I would choose the Partition but if you really want mule deer to drop in their tracks use a nosler ballistic tip. I have never seen one shot that didnt drop in their tracks. I really think the partition and a frame are a little too tough and arent explosive enough.
Think of the A-frames as partitions on steroids!!!
They are core bonded and have thicker jackets. I have used them in a 375 H&H in Africa and they performed flawlessly on shoulder shots on buffalo and large plains game. I also loaded some 140g up in my 7x57 and used them on a number of deer, I never recovered a bullet from the deer I shot at ranges from 60-250yds. The bullets didn't seem to expand that much and subsequently the deer ran further before piling up. I think you would be better served with partitions or accubonds.
I also found that the A-frames copper fouled really badly.
They are core bonded and have thicker jackets. I have used them in a 375 H&H in Africa and they performed flawlessly on shoulder shots on buffalo and large plains game. I also loaded some 140g up in my 7x57 and used them on a number of deer, I never recovered a bullet from the deer I shot at ranges from 60-250yds. The bullets didn't seem to expand that much and subsequently the deer ran further before piling up. I think you would be better served with partitions or accubonds.
I also found that the A-frames copper fouled really badly.
300 Ultra,
The Bal-Tip or the TSX is the bullet of choice for me for DRT performance. I will also say the Hornandy 140 BTSP in the 270 over RL-22 is pretty impressive to.
BUT if using any bullet if you hit 'em in high shoulder, taking out the shoulder and the spine they WILL fall directly to the earth on the spot. I took a big caribou at 337 yards there with a 115 Bal-Tip broke both shoulders and spine with the jacket under the hide on opposite side. Bullet failure...I didn't think so... it killed it DRT. I know they are not bonded, don't care if come apart for kill shots like that. I even shoot my deer there with my crossbow because they go right down given the correct angle from the stand.
The Bal-Tip or the TSX is the bullet of choice for me for DRT performance. I will also say the Hornandy 140 BTSP in the 270 over RL-22 is pretty impressive to.
BUT if using any bullet if you hit 'em in high shoulder, taking out the shoulder and the spine they WILL fall directly to the earth on the spot. I took a big caribou at 337 yards there with a 115 Bal-Tip broke both shoulders and spine with the jacket under the hide on opposite side. Bullet failure...I didn't think so... it killed it DRT. I know they are not bonded, don't care if come apart for kill shots like that. I even shoot my deer there with my crossbow because they go right down given the correct angle from the stand.
