Well thanks for the warning. I'll stay away from that one too!!!Oh boy. ThorroClean is an aggressive cleaner and process. I think Rem 40X cleaner has diatomaceous earth in it for abrasive too.
Well thanks for the warning. I'll stay away from that one too!!!Oh boy. ThorroClean is an aggressive cleaner and process. I think Rem 40X cleaner has diatomaceous earth in it for abrasive too.
Simple green is also great for choke tubes. One word of caution, it will remove any anodizing and markings from them. I suspect it would be tough on many rifle finishes too, so don't let it get on anything but the bore.I have a friend, many years in the military that used Simple Green (not military approved) to clean his rifle after drills and back at home. Soak, scrub, rinse with hot water. He had squeaky clean rifle …..that smelled good too! memtb
I remember when that stuff first came out,Simple green is also great for choke tubes. One word of caution, it will remove any anodizing and markings from them. I suspect it would be tough on many rifle finishes too, so don't let it get on anything but the bore.
Had a 2LT use oven cleaner one time on a brand new M4. The armorer had to send it back to get re-blued. It looked like a SS M4 when he was done with it…I have a friend, many years in the military that used Simple Green (not military approved) to clean his rifle after drills and back at home. Soak, scrub, rinse with hot water. He had squeaky clean rifle …..that smelled good too! memtb
If shining metal is good, why do you need "fouling" shots?
Simple green is also great for choke tubes. One word of caution, it will remove any anodizing and markings from them. I suspect it would be tough on many rifle finishes too, so don't let it get on anything but the bore.
Sweet's 7.62 with a white nylon brush. I have been told that some of the black plastic brushes contain abrasives.What does everyone use to remove copper fouling????
I do think both points of view are correct. Custom high end barrels that Erik uses don't need barrel break in. They are already smooth as glass. They also don't have large POI shift from clean bore to a "fouled barrel" so he can clean in between rounds.This seems to be a subject of much controversy. I have heard Erik Cortina say he cleans his rifles after every session. He say's he's after consistency. He has also stated that he doesn't break his barrels in, and that one barrel manufacture told him it accomplishes nothing. I have read others that say you need some copper fouling to smooth the rifling for best consistency. This is why they recommend specific break in procedures and not using copper removing agents during cleaning.
Is it possible both of these opinions could be correct? You certainly can't argue with Erk's results. Maybe lower quality barrels do benefit from some copper fouling to smooth imperfections. Maybe in match grade barrels copper fouling just makes things worse.
Yeah, I had a feeling this might be the case. Maybe someday I'll have a rifle with a high end match grade barrel to get some first hand experience. For now, I'll have to stick with keeping my factory barrels copper fouled. lolI do think both points of view are correct. Custom high end barrels that Erik uses don't need barrel break in. They are already smooth as glass. They also don't have large POI shift from clean bore to a "fouled barrel" so he can clean in between rounds.
Factory rifles are generally rougher inside. Thus benefiting from fouled barrels to "smooth" them out.
Had a 2LT use oven cleaner one time on a brand new M4. The armorer had to send it back to get re-blued. It looked like a SS M4 when he was done with it…
Had a 2LT use oven cleaner one time on a brand new M4. The armorer had to send it back to get re-blued. It looked like a SS M4 when he was done with it…
I use the Pachout and it is the best product my gunsmith pals say to use.Wipeout, the patchout version.
He has also stated that he doesn't break his barrels in
Custom high end barrels that Erik uses don't need barrel break in.