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Surprise - surprise - surprise

I have a friend, many years in the military that used Simple Green (not military approved) to clean his rifle after drills and back at home. Soak, scrub, rinse with hot water. He had squeaky clean rifle …..that smelled good too! 😂 memtb
Simple green is also great for choke tubes. One word of caution, it will remove any anodizing and markings from them. I suspect it would be tough on many rifle finishes too, so don't let it get on anything but the bore.
 
Simple green is also great for choke tubes. One word of caution, it will remove any anodizing and markings from them. I suspect it would be tough on many rifle finishes too, so don't let it get on anything but the bore.
I remember when that stuff first came out,
Someone had brought a spray bottle full to our compound, at the time I was responsible for our go fast boat and it had some brown water stains on the keel. I quickly read the directions on the bottle and thought hmmmm why not.
The keel has a full length steel protector and is covered by some kind of black coating, I sprayed it on and wiped, almost all the black coating came right off😮 to make things worse I had sprayed about a 10' section with the stuff 😞 the Col. was not happy 😆
 
I have a friend, many years in the military that used Simple Green (not military approved) to clean his rifle after drills and back at home. Soak, scrub, rinse with hot water. He had squeaky clean rifle …..that smelled good too! 😂 memtb
Had a 2LT use oven cleaner one time on a brand new M4. The armorer had to send it back to get re-blued. It looked like a SS M4 when he was done with it…
 
Simple green is also great for choke tubes. One word of caution, it will remove any anodizing and markings from them. I suspect it would be tough on many rifle finishes too, so don't let it get on anything but the bore.

As Scooby Doo would say….Ruh Roh! 🙀 I clean everything (all metal) on the AR with it! 🙀 memtb
 
I have a super strict cleaning regiment for all my rifles!

1) Buy all the latest and greatest cleaners and associated products
2) Have MTX rods and chamber guide with jags and brushes
3) Shoot all rifles until barrels look like a stovepipe
4) Invite OCD brother and family down for a weekend of food and shooting

Following these four steps a few times a year has kept all my rifles looking really good!
 
This seems to be a subject of much controversy. I have heard Erik Cortina say he cleans his rifles after every session. He say's he's after consistency. He has also stated that he doesn't break his barrels in, and that one barrel manufacture told him it accomplishes nothing. I have read others that say you need some copper fouling to smooth the rifling for best consistency. This is why they recommend specific break in procedures and not using copper removing agents during cleaning.

Is it possible both of these opinions could be correct? You certainly can't argue with Erk's results. Maybe lower quality barrels do benefit from some copper fouling to smooth imperfections. Maybe in match grade barrels copper fouling just makes things worse.
 
This seems to be a subject of much controversy. I have heard Erik Cortina say he cleans his rifles after every session. He say's he's after consistency. He has also stated that he doesn't break his barrels in, and that one barrel manufacture told him it accomplishes nothing. I have read others that say you need some copper fouling to smooth the rifling for best consistency. This is why they recommend specific break in procedures and not using copper removing agents during cleaning.

Is it possible both of these opinions could be correct? You certainly can't argue with Erk's results. Maybe lower quality barrels do benefit from some copper fouling to smooth imperfections. Maybe in match grade barrels copper fouling just makes things worse.
I do think both points of view are correct. Custom high end barrels that Erik uses don't need barrel break in. They are already smooth as glass. They also don't have large POI shift from clean bore to a "fouled barrel" so he can clean in between rounds.

Factory rifles are generally rougher inside. Thus benefiting from fouled barrels to "smooth" them out.
 
I do think both points of view are correct. Custom high end barrels that Erik uses don't need barrel break in. They are already smooth as glass. They also don't have large POI shift from clean bore to a "fouled barrel" so he can clean in between rounds.

Factory rifles are generally rougher inside. Thus benefiting from fouled barrels to "smooth" them out.
Yeah, I had a feeling this might be the case. Maybe someday I'll have a rifle with a high end match grade barrel to get some first hand experience. For now, I'll have to stick with keeping my factory barrels copper fouled. lol
 
He has also stated that he doesn't break his barrels in

Custom high end barrels that Erik uses don't need barrel break in.

Erik is referring to the shoot and clean process....all barrels go through a speed up process. From a competitive stand point taking a barrel to a National event with less than 300 rounds down the pipe can be huge risk. Some take more rounds than others to become stable velocity wise.
 

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