Stock finish repair_gunsmithing

[Ftothfadd]

So, I am not a gunsmith and at best an amateur handyman (as it will be obvious very shortly).
I have a sako greywolf stock which came with sling studs I wanted to replace with flush cups and also wanted to install a spartan gunsmith adapter. I have done the work yesterday using appropriately sized forester bits and JB weld to glue in the hardware. The result is very functional but my OCD just do not let me rest because the lacquer is peeled off just around the newly installed hardware and it is not as good looking as I hoped for. Do you have any suggestions how this can be fixed? Any kind of filler or something used immediately adjacent to the newly installed flush cups. Thank you for all your help!

 

[crashlanding]

Maybe superglue gel? Once it sets you may carefully be able to file it down flush

 

[Ftothfadd]

I might try it superglue. I was hoping for some other transparent material that dries hard in a couple of hours.... Or any other experience/suggestions are welcome

 

[1mechanic]

I believe there is a two part epoxy that dries almost clear.

 

[Dean2]

Use clear epoxy resin, same stuff used to coat burle table tops etc. Tricky part is going to be smoothing out the chatter marks prior to covering it. If you don't smooth it out it will show through any finish you apply. In fact once you get it smoothed out it may blend in well enough to not need covering. I would use a 3 corner riffler file.

Google Image Result for https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61kDhyhQ4OL.jpg

Tip for next time, cover the spot u want to drill with 2 or 3 layers of masking tape.

 

[Ftothfadd]

Thank you Dean. I did cover it with masking tape. I think these are not chatter marks, but more the varnish peeling up and small tears adjacent to the drill hole, but I could be wrong. Again, appreciate the help and ideas

 

[GRG]

I believe JB makes a clear 2 part epoxy that I've used and would work good for this. Sets in 5 min I believe. You do need to use something as it looks as if you will have flaking issues if you don't.

 

[Pastor Gun.zales]

Use clear epoxy resin, same stuff used to coat burle table tops etc. Tricky part is going to be smoothing out the chatter marks prior to covering it. If you don't smooth it out it will show through any finish you apply. In fact once you get it smoothed out it may blend in well enough to not need covering. I would use a 3 corner riffler file.

Google Image Result for https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61kDhyhQ4OL.jpg

Tip for next time, cover the spot u want to drill with 2 or 3 layers of masking tape.

I'm going to second everything that Dean2 said, even down to the files.

Get it all cleaned up and then epoxy. If there are deep chatters, you can get a vinyl floor repair compound in the dark gray, let it sit and cure. File/sand flush, the add grain with a graining pen, and finally apply a thin epoxy.

 

[Ftothfadd]

Thank you all. I wish i was more of a handyman, it sounds like a rather complicated multi step process. In all honesty I'm a bit afraid that in an effort to correct a minor blemish i might make the situation worse… We shall see.
Also, what is a *graining pen*?

 

[Pastor Gun.zales]

Thank you all. I wish i was more of a handyman, it sounds like a rather complicated multi step process. In all honesty I'm a bit afraid that in an effort to correct a minor blemish i might make the situation worse… We shall see.
Also, what is a *graining pen*?

It is a simple pen meant for adding grain detail over solid color repairs.



I hope this helps

 

[Rflshootr]

I'd use bedding epoxy with black dye. Sand smooth and give it a couple coats of spray satin lacquer.

 

[M1A1ABRAMS]

Before you drilled your hole. You should have scored it with a razor knife.

 

[Hugnot]

Lacquer is not very good for stocks, it is a fragile film covering whatever, susceptible to scratches & water infiltration under the film - not a really good bond, as shown in the pic having gray and flaking spots near the new hardware. Other areas of distress are adjacent to the back of the stock cheek piece - looks like a bonding failure. A cheap quick way to finish a stock but nothing more.

My solution would be to remove the lacquer coat using sandpaper, use paint remover on the checkering applied with a tooth brush, like scrub the lacquer/ paint remover out of checkering. Don't let the paint remover stay on the stock for an extended time - the laminated stock is probably glued together with resorcinol resin and the paint remover might do a number on it. Wear eye protection & nitrile gloves.

Sand down the stock ending with 320 or 400 grit. Use a scribe to clean out the lacquer junk around the new hardware. Filling the scribed area with JB Weld Steel would work as it cures gray & would match the gray stock, Sand the scribed area. Finish the stock with 4-5 coats of MinWax Poly Rub. Touch up new steel hardware with Brownells Oxpho Blue.

MinWax Poly Rub is good stuff. It can be used to touch up on small areas of wood floors. Scratches are easily repaired. It is water resistant & durable. It bonds well & enhances wood figure & color.

 

[3chester]

Get a stainless steel washer that has an ID diameter to match the battle damage ur lookN to repair. Use 3M masking tape and center the washer over repair and mask off the area. Get a can of Watco Clear Satin Lacquer at the Home Depot for about $12 Bucks. That stuff will melt right in/over and that Battle Damage will disappear, there's just no reason to make a" Cat in the Hat" episode out of a tiny spot repair!