Starting a 600-1000 yd rifle

A

AURktman

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Jul 16, 2009
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I just purchased a Savage 111 in 300 Win. Mag. and am looking to make the modifications necessary to make me competitive in the 600-1000 yard comps.

DSCN5599.jpg


What are the first things I should do?

I know I need a good scope, it already has the Leupold base and rings. It probably needs a heavier barrel, and it needs a little heavier stock since it is VERY light. I am looking to build something that I can compete with, but something that I can also carry out to the field if need be, so I have to make compromises.

I have seen some very good stocks, scopes, etc on this site, but is there something in particular I need for this S111 ?
 
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I just finished building a .300 Ultra Mag on a Stevens 200. Still doing load development and have yet to drive it at the ranges that it's meant for but so far I've got a load that puts 3 bullets in 1 hole at 100 yards!

http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f53/first-build-43130/

First thing I'd say is look at screwing on a new barrel. I've got a Savage .270 that's complete factory that will shoot clover leafs all day but if you're looking at competing, you probably want a thicker and longer tube. Also you may find you want a chambering with less recoil for competiotion. If you're getting a new barrel anyway, a $25 bolt head would be all it would take to go to a different chambering like a 6x47 or 6.5/284.

Second thing would be the stock. I haven't shot one of the new accustocks yet so I can't comment on those but I know the older ones have kind of a tupperware feel. Again this isn't something that would bother me in a beater hunting stick but a comp gun is a whole different ball game. Check out Stockade, Mcmillan or MPI

Third would be the trigger. The accutrigger is great in a hunting gun but if you're looking at competition shooting I'd go for something like a Rifle Basix.

I picked up a nikon buckmaster 6-18 with a mil dot at midway USA for $300. I think they still have them on sale. They also have the barrel wrench and barrel vise that you will need to switch barrels yourself.

Good luck and keep the pics coming!

-PJS
 
Thanks!

I am pretty sure I want to keep it in the 300WM cartridge but will add stuff to the end or change out the stock altogether to absorb the recoil. I know a barrel change is in order, but which one would work with the compromises I need to make? I need something that will get very tight grouping but also not weigh as much as a rail gun. I was thinking a 26"-28" bull barrel, maybe fluted for weight reduction. Is there a preferred manufacturer for this?

Also, I was looking at stocks for them and found a few that I liked, but still not convinced of which direction to go.

Optics, I assume mil-dot is the way to go. I have a Leapers on my RRA CAR A4 but doubt it would stand up to the jolt from the 300WM.
 
The great advantage of using a Savage action is that plenty of barrel makers have threaded-chambered pre-fit barrels that they offer. Shilen, PacNor and McGowan all immediately come to mind and I'm sure more do as well.
I haven't had a chance to shoot it at long range yet but my .300 Ultra with a 30" Shilen will put 3 bullets in 1 hole if I do my part. The barrel is a savage heavy varmint contour and weighs 6#. I'm not sure what the finished rifle is but it's not absurd and I fully intend on carrying it this season.

As for recoil, I put a Kick EZ pad on my factory stock and it made all the difference in the world. My longest session was 25 rounds and, while the thing still has pretty good punch (I don't have a break), I didn't have a single bruise. Highly recommend them.
 
I think the first thing you need to do is get a different rifle. the 300 in that little rifle will kick the crap right out of you!! Plus the barrel is going to heat up to fast shooting all that powder. I have nothing against a savage sporter, but i read the word competitive. you can not compete with a rifle like that and expect to win. Good luck though and i truly hope you enjoy the rifle and have tons of success. Lee
 
Well, the main reason I bought the rifle was for the action. It will get rebarreled with a heavy barrel but in the same caliber. It will get a different stock with a substantial recoil pad as well. I figure it will gain 6-7 pounds before I finish. This is a rifle I want to be able to take to Wyoming for elk as well as not get my rear kicked at a competition.
 
October 26, 2008

Hot Shots: Newbie Almost Ties F-Class Record with Savage

Filed under: News — Editor @ 1 am
Can a rifle built on a Savage target action be "big-league" competitive? Apparently so. Forum member Nat Lambeth (aka "Rustystud") reports that Jeff Saunders shot a 200 with 14 Xs at 600 yards last Saturday at an F-Class Match in Camp Butner, NC. This is one "X" off the National Record (200-15X) on the new F-Class target, and topped the 600-yard F-Open record (200-13X) set by Charles Ballard. Jeff was shooting a Savage target action with a 31″ Broughton 1:8″, 5C barrel chambered in 6mmBRX, in a modified Stockade stock topped with a 12-42×56 Nightforce scope. Jeff is a relatively new shooter and is learning the art of reading the wind. Jeff shot five shots in a row into a 1.75″ spotter before hitting the spindel and destroying the spotter.
 
I read another article where a stock savage from factory in the F/TR model won a shooting event. They tried to say it was a custom rifle and take away the win from the guy. The shooter had to get a letter from savage stating that they do not offer a custom rifle, and the model that was used in fact was an off the shelf model.

They are good rifles. I don't care what anyone else wants to spend, I'm sticking with the savage rifle.

Tank
 
I now have it in a Choate USS stock and I like it so far. I like the weight of it (some complain of the weight) and I like the design so far. I need to still get the new barrel and scope. My plans for the scope are pretty fixed now at a Nikon 8-32x40. Does this sound reasonable? I have heard from many that the Nikon is the best bang for the buck.

As for barrel I see most are about the same price. Is there a barrel that is drop in that is better than the rest? I have looked at the Shilen and some others, but I don't have my heart set on one yet.

Thoughts?
 
IMO you are going about this backwards.

1. Decide on what type 600-1000 yd comp. Is it Fclass, BR, NRA long range, Palma or what? Once you decide that, you can start picking caliber and components.

Palma requires a 30 inch tight bore 308 shooting 155s.
Fclass is 6mm, 7mm and 6.5-284 primarily.
600-1k BR is 6mm, 7mm, 6.5 284 and 30 cal (300 win mag, 300 WSM and 300 Ack Imp are top 3)
NRA LR could be any of the above.

2. If you are set on the savage, have it trued and timed by kevin rahill or Fred moro at Sharp shooter supply. Fred also supplies good stocks for the savage for most disciplines. Better yet ask Fred if he has a timed target action for sale (normally does $500 and no year wait)

3. Fred and Shilen also have ready to drop in barrels for most calibers.

4. I would pick the 6mm BRX with a .100 throat in a 1-8 twist barrel that is 28" for 100-107 gr bullets. You can use standard BR dies and will run those bullets 2950 or so and works for almost all disciplines. Easy on barrels, inexpensive to reload, great shooting with no brake and accurate as hell.

5. Now if it is to be your elk rifle, then no choice but the 300 WSM . 2-3x the barrel life of any other mag and accuracy second to none. Only go with 30" barrel in 1-11 twist that will shoot the bullets up to 210 gr at 2850-3000 fps depending on the gun.

Either one will make a poor hunting rifle if they are "competitive" comp guns. Better buy another hunting rifle. Never has been a "competitive" comp gun built that was not on a BR stock or stock for that discipline.

Kind of like building one car for NASCAR racing and the local taxi at the same time. That is not going to happen and be good.

BH
 
Well, I will probably build a field gun then. I am pretty set on the 300WM as my choice for cartridge. I looked at Shilen barrels but the lead time is 16 weeks right now and I was hoping to have this ready to go in under a month. I am pretty sure I will go with the Nikon scope as well.

Is there a barrel that is as good as Shilen but has a shorter delivery time? I am looking for a bull barrel that is about 27".

I guess I will build a comp rifle later.
 
BountyHunter said:
IMO you are going about this backwards.

1. Decide on what type 600-1000 yd comp. Is it Fclass, BR, NRA long range, Palma or what? Once you decide that, you can start picking caliber and components.

Palma requires a 30 inch tight bore 308 shooting 155s.
Fclass is 6mm, 7mm and 6.5-284 primarily.
600-1k BR is 6mm, 7mm, 6.5 284 and 30 cal (300 win mag, 300 WSM and 300 Ack Imp are top 3)
NRA LR could be any of the above.

2. If you are set on the savage, have it trued and timed by kevin rahill or Fred moro at Sharp shooter supply. Fred also supplies good stocks for the savage for most disciplines. Better yet ask Fred if he has a timed target action for sale (normally does $500 and no year wait)

3. Fred and Shilen also have ready to drop in barrels for most calibers.

4. I would pick the 6mm BRX with a .100 throat in a 1-8 twist barrel that is 28" for 100-107 gr bullets. You can use standard BR dies and will run those bullets 2950 or so and works for almost all disciplines. Easy on barrels, inexpensive to reload, great shooting with no brake and accurate as hell.

5. Now if it is to be your elk rifle, then no choice but the 300 WSM . 2-3x the barrel life of any other mag and accuracy second to none. Only go with 30" barrel in 1-11 twist that will shoot the bullets up to 210 gr at 2850-3000 fps depending on the gun.

Either one will make a poor hunting rifle if they are "competitive" comp guns. Better buy another hunting rifle. Never has been a "competitive" comp gun built that was not on a BR stock or stock for that discipline.

Kind of like building one car for NASCAR racing and the local taxi at the same time. That is not going to happen and be good.

BH
Click to expand...


+1 on the 1:11 twist!:cool:

Tank
 
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