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Long Range Hunting & Shooting
Some guidance so I don't blow myself up...
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<blockquote data-quote="liltank" data-source="post: 327141" data-attributes="member: 13275"><p>+1 for the turrets. I have tried using mil dots and have failed miserably several times. It takes some practice getting use to the hold overs and knowing the exact drop of each dot. My current set up is a target dot Nikon Buckmaster with target turrets and side focus. This is one of the best scopes for the money in my opinion. I like having the ability to turn them up and down for a more precise shooting experience. </p><p></p><p>As far as the full length sizing is concerned, Montana brings up some good points. I currently have to full body size with a body die and neck size the same way he does. For some reason I cannot just neck size on my 300, but I can with my 308. He is right that after a few reloads you will have to full length size anyway. Sorry for not putting that in there and thanks Mark for the reminder!<img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite6" alt=":cool:" title="Cool :cool:" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":cool:" /></p><p></p><p>A couple steps we have left out of the case prep is trimming and deburring. Primer pockets are generally punched which leaves a burr on the inside of the flash hole. It is good practice when prepping new brass to take the time to clean this burr out. Brass such as Lapua and Nosler custom drill the flash holes making this step unnecessary. My Norma brass did need to be deburred though. </p><p></p><p>You should also look into a case length trimmer. Hornady makes a decent one that you can turn by hand and RCBS makes a power trimmer. You want to trim all of your casings to the same length. This again promotes consistency necessary for accuracy at long range. You would not see much of a difference at close range, but when you really start reaching out is where that will happen. This will also help in keeping your pressures steady. Again you will need an inside and outside chamfering tool to eliminate the burr in the neck that comes with trimming. </p><p></p><p>It is relatively expensive getting started, but the rewards of accuracy and being able to shoot consistently for less money make it worth the initial expense.</p><p></p><p>Tank</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="liltank, post: 327141, member: 13275"] +1 for the turrets. I have tried using mil dots and have failed miserably several times. It takes some practice getting use to the hold overs and knowing the exact drop of each dot. My current set up is a target dot Nikon Buckmaster with target turrets and side focus. This is one of the best scopes for the money in my opinion. I like having the ability to turn them up and down for a more precise shooting experience. As far as the full length sizing is concerned, Montana brings up some good points. I currently have to full body size with a body die and neck size the same way he does. For some reason I cannot just neck size on my 300, but I can with my 308. He is right that after a few reloads you will have to full length size anyway. Sorry for not putting that in there and thanks Mark for the reminder!:cool: A couple steps we have left out of the case prep is trimming and deburring. Primer pockets are generally punched which leaves a burr on the inside of the flash hole. It is good practice when prepping new brass to take the time to clean this burr out. Brass such as Lapua and Nosler custom drill the flash holes making this step unnecessary. My Norma brass did need to be deburred though. You should also look into a case length trimmer. Hornady makes a decent one that you can turn by hand and RCBS makes a power trimmer. You want to trim all of your casings to the same length. This again promotes consistency necessary for accuracy at long range. You would not see much of a difference at close range, but when you really start reaching out is where that will happen. This will also help in keeping your pressures steady. Again you will need an inside and outside chamfering tool to eliminate the burr in the neck that comes with trimming. It is relatively expensive getting started, but the rewards of accuracy and being able to shoot consistently for less money make it worth the initial expense. Tank [/QUOTE]
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Some guidance so I don't blow myself up...
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