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Some guidance so I don't blow myself up...
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<blockquote data-quote="liltank" data-source="post: 326991" data-attributes="member: 13275"><p>What I am referring to is brass that has never been loaded or fired. When you load any brass for the first time or use factory loaded ammo I consider it virgin brass and needs to fire formed. Unfired brass can cause pressure differences and large speed fluctuation. This may account for my extreme spreads being so high and lack of accuracy. But I did notice that the pressure was not there like in the original loads on brass that had been fired multiple times.</p><p></p><p>Every chamber is different. When a new round is fired in a chamber the brass takes the form of that chamber (fire forming). This blows out the necks and shoulders to duplicate the chamber in your rifle. It is good practice to use a neck sizing die to re-size with following your first shot. All your pressures in your first load and second firing with the same brass then will hold better pressures, because theoretically all things are equal. Your first firing is all that is needed to pull in accuracy.</p><p></p><p>You don't want to full length size anymore than you have to, to keep from over working your brass. By overworking the brass it will start to fail after it reaches a point. The brass will work harden like any other metal when flexed back and fourth to much causing the necks and shoulders to crack. This is something that should be looked for after every firing to ensure safety and consistent reloads. </p><p>The caliber determines how long the brass will last. Some of the really heavy calibers will only last for 3 to 4 loads depending how hot you make the loads. A caliber like the .308 can last as long as you take care of the brass. I currently have about 20 loads on my 308 Winny (Norma brass) and about 10 to 15 on my 300WSM (Winchester brass). </p><p></p><p>There is a process whereby you use a propane torch to add longevity to the brass. You heat the neck to a dual red and quench it in water. This process is called annealing. It removes the stress from the metal allowing it to be reworked over and over. This process also allows for the necks to have equal pressure on all sides allowing the bullet to be released evenly from the neck. I find with my 300WSM I need to anneal about every 2nd to 3rd firing for good accuracy. </p><p></p><p>As far as the brass you currently own, once fired is good to reload as long as it was fired from your rifle and your chamber. It is good practice to not use others brass because the chamber may be bigger than yours causing feeding problems. You should try and keep track of how many times you load it for consistency. I don't trouble my self to much with counting reloads. I could be off with my numbers above, but some guys like my cousin counts for every time he has loaded the same brass. </p><p></p><p>Hope this helps. A little more info than you asked for, but any little bit helps. </p><p></p><p>Tank</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="liltank, post: 326991, member: 13275"] What I am referring to is brass that has never been loaded or fired. When you load any brass for the first time or use factory loaded ammo I consider it virgin brass and needs to fire formed. Unfired brass can cause pressure differences and large speed fluctuation. This may account for my extreme spreads being so high and lack of accuracy. But I did notice that the pressure was not there like in the original loads on brass that had been fired multiple times. Every chamber is different. When a new round is fired in a chamber the brass takes the form of that chamber (fire forming). This blows out the necks and shoulders to duplicate the chamber in your rifle. It is good practice to use a neck sizing die to re-size with following your first shot. All your pressures in your first load and second firing with the same brass then will hold better pressures, because theoretically all things are equal. Your first firing is all that is needed to pull in accuracy. You don't want to full length size anymore than you have to, to keep from over working your brass. By overworking the brass it will start to fail after it reaches a point. The brass will work harden like any other metal when flexed back and fourth to much causing the necks and shoulders to crack. This is something that should be looked for after every firing to ensure safety and consistent reloads. The caliber determines how long the brass will last. Some of the really heavy calibers will only last for 3 to 4 loads depending how hot you make the loads. A caliber like the .308 can last as long as you take care of the brass. I currently have about 20 loads on my 308 Winny (Norma brass) and about 10 to 15 on my 300WSM (Winchester brass). There is a process whereby you use a propane torch to add longevity to the brass. You heat the neck to a dual red and quench it in water. This process is called annealing. It removes the stress from the metal allowing it to be reworked over and over. This process also allows for the necks to have equal pressure on all sides allowing the bullet to be released evenly from the neck. I find with my 300WSM I need to anneal about every 2nd to 3rd firing for good accuracy. As far as the brass you currently own, once fired is good to reload as long as it was fired from your rifle and your chamber. It is good practice to not use others brass because the chamber may be bigger than yours causing feeding problems. You should try and keep track of how many times you load it for consistency. I don't trouble my self to much with counting reloads. I could be off with my numbers above, but some guys like my cousin counts for every time he has loaded the same brass. Hope this helps. A little more info than you asked for, but any little bit helps. Tank [/QUOTE]
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Some guidance so I don't blow myself up...
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