Scope choice for my Lazzeroni

[alaskaneskimo]

I own a Lazzeroni 7.82 warbird that is shooting a 180 gr hornady at about 3500 fps using rl-25. I have it zeroed now at 300 with my leupold 6.5-20x and have bagged elk easily from 100 to 500 yds. But I have found a place where I could set my watch by the elk coming out, only it is about 1000 yds out from the closest vantage point. I think my gun will do just fine as well as myself with some practice. But my question is about my scope setup. I do not have turrets and even then it seems at 1/4 moa per click it would take alot of turning to get to the correct setting even if it would go that far, and then who knows where in the scale I am if I lose count. Any help? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[CatShooter]

[ QUOTE ]
I own a Lazzeroni 7.82 warbird that is shooting a 180 gr hornady at about 3500 fps using rl-25. I have it zeroed now at 300 with my leupold 6.5-20x and have bagged elk easily from 100 to 500 yds. But I have found a place where I could set my watch by the elk coming out, only it is about 1000 yds out from the closest vantage point. I think my gun will do just fine as well as myself with some practice. But my question is about my scope setup. I do not have turrets and even then it seems at 1/4 moa per click it would take alot of turning to get to the correct setting even if it would go that far, and then who knows where in the scale I am if I lose count. Any help? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

I'll start off by saying that an elk at 1,000 yds is NOT twice as far as an elk 500 yds - it is YEARS of experence and training farther.

If you have been shooting elk at 300 to 500, you are not ready to shoot them at 1,000.

Nor is it a matter of just picking the "right" scope.

That being said (and I'm sure it will be ignored), get a scope with 1/4 clicks, and 15 moa per turn, like the Leupold VX-III scopes, with 1" tubes.

Set the scope up in Burris "Signature ZEE" rings, and use what ever combination of inserts necessary to allow you to zero the scope at 100 yds, with the elevation turret all the way at the bottom of the adjustment.

This done, zero the rifle at 100, and set the turret at "0".

Now, you can loose track of what clicks you are on, cus it's easy to "go to zero" and count up in moa. Less than 2 revolutions of the turret will take you to 1,000yds. So if your 1,000 zero is 28 moa, then you go one turn and 13 moa, and you are on.

This is the simple part... there is baro to take into account, which does not come into play at 300 to 500yds. Plus "cant" and temperature, and... and... and... and...

I would STRONGLY suggest that you spend a year or two whacking steel plates at 1,000 yds, before wounding and loosing an elk at that distance.

Long range shooting/hunting, is NOT about the equipment, it's about the "art" and it doesn't come in a box.

If you can make the statement "... and even then it seems at 1/4 moa per click it would take a lot of turning to get to the correct setting even if it would go that far, and then who knows where in the scale I am if I lose count."...
... you are not ready.

It's like saying you have a Corvette and you want to pass at 120mph, but how will you know what gear you are in, if you can't look down at the transmission....
... if you have to look at the gear shift, DON'T PASS!

What range your scope is set for should be second nature for you in the field... if you you have these questions, you are not ready.

 

[jwp475]

[ QUOTE ]
I own a Lazzeroni 7.82 warbird that is shooting a 180 gr hornady at about 3500 fps using rl-25. I have it zeroed now at 300 with my leupold 6.5-20x and have bagged elk easily from 100 to 500 yds. But I have found a place where I could set my watch by the elk coming out, only it is about 1000 yds out from the closest vantage point. I think my gun will do just fine as well as myself with some practice. But my question is about my scope setup. I do not have turrets and even then it seems at 1/4 moa per click it would take alot of turning to get to the correct setting even if it would go that far, and then who knows where in the scale I am if I lose count. Any help? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Have you chronographed that load,are or you just speculating? Many of the the Leupold scopes adjust in IPHY and not in MOA and the difference in MOA adjustments and IPHY with a 20 MOA correction at 1K is 9.44 inches and more correction the more error...........

 

[CatShooter]

[ QUOTE ]
"Have you chronographed that load,are or you just speculating? Many of the the Leupold scopes adjust in IPHY and not in MOA and the difference in MOA adjustments and IPHY with a 20 MOA correction at 1K is 9.44 inches and more correction the more error..........."

[/ QUOTE ]

It's a moot point whether they are moa or inches, and what the muzzle velocity is... The rifle HAS to be tested for drop at all ranges, and the data for drop must be confirmed and logged.

You can't shoot quality game with a computer.

Otherwise he is just throwing rocks.

.

 

[remingtonman_25_06]

Catshooter- My thoughts exactly...

If you can make the statement "... and even then it seems at 1/4 moa per click it would take a lot of turning to get to the correct setting even if it would go that far, and then who knows where in the scale I am if I lose count."...
... you are not ready.

 

[onzah]

Assuming you are using a scope with regular turrets, the first thing you will need is a fine quality scope with graduations or target turrets. Leupold will install them on the scope you have for a pretty decent price. That will solve the problem you have with the ability to determine where you are at once you start cranking on the adjustments. As Catshooter stated that is the beginnning. The rest of the problem is figuring out where to crank to.

 

[jwp475]

by catshooter
"You can't shoot quality game with a computer" [ QUOTE ]


Now that's a no brainer. I beg to differ with your statement that it makes no difference and believe that it is important to know exactly how your scope adjusts.You can field verify all you want at sea leval and then go on a hunt in the rockies at 7500 foot of elevation and a ballistic program will give you the correction and if you know how your scope adjusts you will be on, without re-shooting at every diffewrent range to0 reverify...if you do not know how your scope adjusts then you will be of, if it adjusts in IPHY and you use MOA corrections..........

 

[Gustavo]

Cat,

Your post needs to be framed.

How much wisdom and exhibit of common sense.

I love it! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[CatShooter]

[ QUOTE ]

by catshooter
"You can't shoot quality game with a computer" [ QUOTE ]


Now that's a no brainer. I beg to differ with your statement that it makes no difference and believe that it is important to know exactly how your scope adjusts.You can field verify all you want at sea leval and then go on a hunt in the rockies at 7500 foot of elevation and a ballistic program will give you the correction and if you know how your scope adjusts you will be on, without re-shooting at every diffewrent range to0 reverify...if you do not know how your scope adjusts then you will be of, if it adjusts in IPHY and you use MOA corrections..........

[/ QUOTE ]


WHAT???


This is gibberish (and you need a spell checker!!).


First of all... please take the time to note that I stated "... there is baro to take into account, which does not come into play at 300 to 500yds. Plus "cant" and temperature, and... and... and... and...'


Baro IS altitude (I guess you missed that part).


And I mentioned the issue of "cant", cuz if you aren't dealing with cant, then you are not hitting anything in the field at 1,000... and I mentioned Temperature, and all the other "ands"...


So what is your problemo?


I said that the scope must be tested - that means that you find out if the scope is in moa, or 1/4" or .27345" or whatever.


Do you think you can call the scope company and talk to the pretty bimbo on the phone, and she can give you the information you need to make a shot at 1,000 yds. If you do, then you have been reading the ads in the gun magazines too much.


You gotta be kidding... Thousand yard shooting is NOT the accumulation of equipment!


You cannot buy a scope, zero a rifle, and then ask a computer to tell you what to do, whether the scope is in moa (or close) or in 1/4" (or close).


Most medium priced scopes are NEITHER... but are close approximations.


YOU must test it.


As to him shooting at 7500 feet altitude... gimme a break, he isn't ready for that yet... he hasn't mastered dialing in his scope.


You gotta walk before you run.

.

 

[jwp475]

So it's all bold now.. Your attitude leaves a lot to be desired, in your first post you stated that it didn't matter and now come back as if I am an Idiot. My first post was techincly correct and you take an atitude..I know what my scope adjusts in and I thought it important for others to know as well......Back to you GOD

 

[CatShooter]

[ QUOTE ]
So it's all bold now.. Your attitude leaves a lot to be desired, in your first post you stated that it didn't matter and now come back as if I am an Idiot. My first post was techincly correct and you take an atitude..I know what my scope adjusts in and I thought it important for others to know as well......Back to you GOD

[/ QUOTE ]

I think you missed something.

It is pointless to discuss the minutia of turret adjustments, when none of the basics have been taken care of.

You don't point out the techniques of high speed cornering to someone that just got their drivers license. You just waste their time and confuse them.

What you said was correct... I didn't talk to you like an idiot... but the remarks did not fit the question.

Further... no matter what the spacing of the divisions of the "clicks" is, it is not enough to take someone word for it at the company, when you have the time and cost of a big game trip at stake.

Anyone needs to check out their rifle, at long range, and know what the actual come-ups are. This can not be gotten from ANY computer software.

If you feel like an idiot, there's nothing I can do about that!

.

 

[jwp475]

I would take it that many read these thread and look for information..Just because the person that asked the orignal question may or may not be able to absorb the added info, doesn't mean that someone else can not and may also be looking for answers... At least that's my take on it...

Trust me I do not feel like an idiot,but I do not take to being talked down to either...........

 

[alaskaneskimo]

First of all, I appreciate your reply. But I did not say I would be taking a wild poke at an elk at 1000yds as soon as I can bolt on a different scope. I have been shooting for many years, reloaded, chronographed and tested my loads for 10 years now. I understand the need for practice and tuning to pull off a shot like that. I know where my scope is set, what yardage I am zeroed at and what adjustments are needed for the yardage I am comfortable with -- I have killed every elk with one round for the past 10 years. So please cut out the rookie "which end of the gun do I shoot out of" Comments.

I understand and acknowledge I am not ready for shots over 500 yards yet and was just asking for some advice on setup. You do have to admit even though you call it a dumb question, that if your scope has the standard 1/4 moa clicks that takes a penny to dial and you are trying to adjust from a 100 yrd shot to a 1000 yrd shot, it would be easy to lose your place in the adjustment.

Thanks for the thoughts on setup, I will look into them.

By the way, my hunting is done at 12000 ft. and I do understand baro and a large part of those and, and, ands.