Scope base choice 0 or 20 MOA

[kbb468]

I just picked up a Nikon Buckmaster 4.5x14-40mm scope that I am putting on my 308 and was hoping for advice on the the scope base. I ordered a ferral base with 0 MOA yesterday and wasn't sure if this would work for a shooting distance of 500 yds or so. How for can I expect to shoot before needing a base with 20 MOA?

Thanks,
KBB

 

[AJ Peacock]

There are some variables that I don't know, but here is a general answer to your question (with some assumptions about your situation as well).

I looked on the Nikon website and there is 40MOA internal adjustment with your scope.

Assuming (huge assumption) that your scope mounted on your rifle and sighted in at 100yds, the scope would be near its center of adjustment. This would give you 20MOA of adjustment.

That 20MOA of adjustment will get you out to around 650yds (depending on your load and bullet), however, when a scope is at its extreme range of vertical adjustment, its horizontal adjustment will be limited by the internal mechanism. So as long as you're not clicking for windage at the same time you are maxed out vertically, then you should be OK.

Be aware, I've seen scopes that had a lot more (or a lot less) than 1/2 of their adjustment available after being mounted on a rifle. This can be due to the action not being perfectly aligned with the bore or other things not perfectly aligned.

If you get the 20MOA base, you have a potential of not being able to sight it in at 100yds. But you would have a lot of horizontal travel where you need it, at longer distance.

Hope this helps,

AJ

 

[davewilson]

the thing i like about putting a little "lean" on the scope is, when you're at extended ranges, the scope is more in the middle of it's preferred working zone. by this i mean the turrets will work more consistently when they're not at the extreme ends of their travel. also the optics are not only better but more efficient in the center of the tube. i'd much rather have my turrets near the end of their travel at 100 yards than at a 1000 where a little variance won't make much difference.

 

[CatShooter]

My solution to this is to use Burris Signature "ZEE" rings.

It is what I use on almost EVERY rifle I have. They fit all weaver style cross slot bases and all 1913 spec (Picatinny) rails.

They rings have nylon inserts that support the scope - keeps the scope protected from dreaded "Ring marks", plus they relieve all of the stress of mis-alignment, because the rings are self aligning - no lapping of the rings required.

But the best part is you can get extra rings that have offsets of 5, 10, and 20 thou... which just happen to work out to 5, 10, and 20 moa for EACH ring.

So you can tilt the scope anywhere from 5 moa to 40 moa.

I set up my scopes so that the 100 yd zero is just slightly above the bottom of the elevation turret. Then set the turret to "0"... then it is easy to go up 13 moa.

So in the case of your Nikon, you will have all 40 moa of elevation available.

Contrary to popular rumors, this does NOT result in any negative performance on the part of the scope.

The rings are about $40 and the additional plastic inserts are a few bucks a set.


.

 

[TAC]

You're going to want a 20 MOA base. You say 500 yards max now, but pretty soon that will become less of a challenge and you'll want to lob a few farther. If you can change your order without much hassle, I would do so. Ken Ferrel bases are well made and are a inexpensive if you shop around. The only issue I've had is that they sit up rather high off your action and with a 40mm objective you have to go with ultra low rings to get the scope reasonably close the the bore. I also have a 20 MOA base from TPS and it sits a lot lower on the action than my Ferrel's do. Now this can also be an issue on a hunting rig because it makes it harder to get rounds fed in from the top, or can impede case extraction (although not likely).
TPS Products - Online Store

An alternative way to go is with a two piece base steel base and Burris Signature Z rings. You can buy the offset and get all of the adjustment you need out of your scope. I did this on my 243AI and it worked out well

MidwayUSA - Leupold 2-Piece Quick-Release Weaver-Style Scope Base Remington 700, Howa 1500, Weatherby Vanguard Matte

MidwayUSA - Burris 1" Signature Zee Weaver-Style Rings Matte Medium

MidwayUSA - Burris 1" Signature Ring ***-Align Offset Inserts Installation Kit .005, .010 and .020

TAC

 

[TAC]

Gee...

I see a pattern developing here...


TAC

 

[kbb468]

My solution to this is to use Burris Signature "ZEE" rings.

It is what I use on almost EVERY rifle I have. They fit all weaver style cross slot bases and all 1913 spec (Picatinny) rails.

They rings have nylon inserts that support the scope - keeps the scope protected from dreaded "Ring marks", plus they relieve all of the stress of mis-alignment, because the rings are self aligning - no lapping of the rings required.

But the best part is you can get extra rings that have offsets of 5, 10, and 20 thou... which just happen to work out to 5, 10, and 20 moa for EACH ring.

So you can tilt the scope anywhere from 5 moa to 40 moa.

I set up my scopes so that the 100 yd zero is just slightly above the bottom of the elevation turret. Then set the turret to "0"... then it is easy to go up 13 moa.

So in the case of your Nikon, you will have all 40 moa of elevation available.

Contrary to popular rumors, this does NOT result in any negative performance on the part of the scope.

The rings are about $40 and the additional plastic inserts are a few bucks a set.


.

Thanks for the advice on using the inserts. I did order the Burris Z rings along with the base which should be here today. So what you are saying is that I can use the 5 offes inserts on the front (muzzle side) and put 10 or 20 inserts on the rear (butt side) and get the same results as using a base with different MOA built in. I never thought of this. I see this catching on and taking of.

What are the intention of using the different inserts 5, 10, and 20?