Savage 22-250, 12 failing to eject

[britz]

Hello everyone
I thought I'd give this issue some more thought... in 2009 I purchased a 12 left hand w/ the cheap plastic stock. I was having accuracy and ejection troubles with it. Sent it in to savage and they rebarreled it and said they had no issues w/ ejection.

the result was the same inaccuracy and ejection... I still have about 1/3 to 1/5 rounds fail to eject. they seem to slip out of the bolt face just a little too soon and end up laying loose in the chamber. Not a big deal if you want to shoot shingle shot.

I suspected bad brass from reloading, but it does the same thing w/ factory ammo. I have replaced the ejector plunger and spring... no luck.

I am considering rebarreling the rig but don't want to stick that $$ into it unless I can get it to work properly.

any thoughts?
accuracy issue is that I can't get better than .75 -1.0 MOA out of it.

thanks

 

[geargrinder]

I'd be willing to bet it is the extractor that is failing, not your ejector.

Try a slightly larger ball bearing under your extractor. I believe you need a 3.5mm bearing.

It will let the extractor hold the rim better until the ejector can do its job.

 

[britz]

thanks, I will check into that... I beleive I did replace it with a slightly larger one, but if memory searves I didn't use bearing grade material, possibly the friction that would be caused from slight blemishes on the surface.

thank you for advice.

 

[liltank]

Could be the spring under the bearing in the ejector. If it is not putting enough pressure on the ejector it will slip out. Pull your plunger spring and stretch it a little too. As far as accuracy, did you do a barrel break in? How many rounds have you fired since new? Did you make sure to clean out all the copper with each cleaning? Something else you can do is set the timing in the bolt. If the cocking pin in the rear of the bolt is hitting the bolt housing, this can cause some accuracy issues. Dry fire the rifle. The bolt body should move forward in a straight motion. If it moves to the left or right, your cocking pin is contacting the bolt body. You can take the bolt apart and and adjust the rear firing spring tension adjuster. Just back it off 1 to 2 slots. Repeat the process. Another thing to do is while the bolt is apart, check the firing pin protrusion on the bolt face. It should only protrude .050-.055". Take something and push on the pin so that it sticks out the bolt face. Use calipers to check it.

Tank

 

[liltank]

A couple other things, is the action setting directly on the pillars? Is the rear tang floating (where the safety is)? Is the barrel completely free floating to the recoil lug? Is it an accustock? Didn't really need to, but I did get my 12VLP bedded just for added assurance. Didn't cost much. I would do the bedding myself now. Didn't try it before due to lack of knowledge and concerned about gluing my action to the stock. That wouldn't be good!

 

[britz]

thanks for the information and advice. I will try stretching the spring a little.

I did a break in period with about 40 rounds. I cleaned the copper out using Sweets and did this every shot for the first 10, every 3rd for the next 15 or so, then every 5 rounds after that. The stock is not an accu stock. I have recently strenthened the stock using epoxy and steel rodds. but I know this will only aid me in my aiming issues taking out some of the wabble.

I have done extensive development testing using H380,Imr 4064, IMR 4895, and a couple others... I have tried NBT 40,50, 55 gr. Sierra blitzkings 50 and 55 gr. Hornady Amax 52 gr, hornady vmax 50, 55, and 60 gr. many would group around 1.5" at 100 but I only got the 40 gr NBT's to group decent (about .75" at 100). I have done ladder tests with a few, but I also did 5 and 10 round group testing. I can see machine marks on the barrel as I could with the origional one. Since the barrel was replaced I have fired around 500 rounds through it.

I am not trying to bash savage since I am the ONLY person I know that has had this much issue with a rifle. I am just a little shocked as to the barrel machine marks. If I can get it to eject properly I will consider a shillen barrel to make it shoot decent.

Learning experience... cant purchase the cheapest rifle on the market and expect it to perform as well as one that costs twice as much.

thanks again.

 

[Bravo 4]

I had the same problem, it would barely eject a spent case and wouldn't hold a loaded round long enough to fully extract it from the chamber. I sent it to two different "gunsmiths" and after getting charged twice to NOT fix the problem I looked on line and took the ejector and extractor off myself (easy to do) and stretched the springs myself. This helped considerably.
A word of advise, hold a spent/dummy cartridge on the bolt face to push the ejector down and use a small punch or paperclip to push out the pin that holds the ejector in place. If not you will never get it out, at least not without breaking something.

Sorry, the picture didn't show like I expected.

 

[britz]

I stretched the spring and that seemed to help. I also used JB bore bright and scrubbed the barrel about 50 passess... 5-6 times... so I scrubbed the living heck out if it. I can see some blemishes in the rifleing (but it seemed to look a little better than before. I did some shooting and the group sizes seemed to shrink slightly... so I ordered at Tubb's bore finish system, along w/ new extraction kit (as long as I was ordering.

I thank you again for the direction.

later.

 

[britz]

update: ordered new spring, detent ball, and extractor. Seems to work much much better. however I have run around 50 rounds through and have had only 2 failure to extracts. this is a major improvement.

Also, ordered and used the Tubbs final finish bullets. I was a little supprised as to the extent of machine marks in the barrel. I also noticed that the Tubbs bullets made a noticeable improvement. I have completed testing and it now fires pretty darn accuratly. shooting 3 shot groups at 200 yards with various loads. All under 3", 4 groups were under 1"... I'd say that was worth the $37. I am not ready to say that it will consistantly shoot that small of groups, but it has most definately improved.

thanks for the advice again!