Savage 111 LRH in 300 WM poor accuracy

[1FastGambler]

http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f19/111-long-range-hunter-300-win-mag-67605/index3.html

Post # 16 by "liltank" talks about adjusting the firing pin if the bolt jumps left during a dry fire. (I assume he meant rotate left?)

This rifle does, but not every time.

Also, who makes a good sporter hunting stock for this rifle?

What bullet weights are typically producing the best groups with this rifle?

It shot it's best group today of 2" with a 200g LRX, 79.5g of Ramshot Magnum, COL of 3.362. All other groups have been randomly spaced 3-5" with both factory and hand loads. Pretty pathetic.

There are zero issues with scope/scope mounting. (Nothing is moving).

I also read where someone said that his rifle didn't shoot well if it was clean. This rifle hasn't shot over 8 rounds before getting cleaned, so maybe I need to let it build up?

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[Eaglet]

Take the action off the stock and carefully scan the stock with your eyes under good light. Look for rubs, scraches and the like. Absolutely make sure the barrel is fully free floated and also the TANG of the action; this tang would cause great problems if it isn't free of contact. If possible glass bed the action which you can do
your self. After any of the above mentioned has been fiexed, please torque both bolts action-stock using a torque wrench to the proper inch-lbs.

I got a feeling your rifle will be shooting awesome after this. Keep fingers crossed!!!

 

[1FastGambler]

What is the "tang"?

The first thing I checked when rifle was new & wouldn't shoot was scope mounting and I pulled the stock to look for wear signs.

No issues with the scope, it is a Vortex PST 6-24x50 FFP mounted on a Nightforce 20 MOA base with Vortex Matched Precision rings, all torqued to spec with lock tight. Scope slid in rings like it was on ball bearings before torqueing down.

The issue I found was where the aluminum in the stock meets the sides of the receiver had worn thru the receiver coating, so I bedded it from the recoil lug back with Score High Epoxy using a trimmed piece of electrical tape under the recoil lug and removed the tape after it set up.

One other thing I don't like is that as soon as I torque the rear action screw to the recommended 40 inch lbs it causes the rear of the trigger guard to pivot away from the stock. The first time I put it back together after bedding was complete the back screw on the trigger guard stripped out so I filled the hole with epoxy, coated the screw with my bedding release wax. Not a permanent fix, but it is holding for now.

The Barrel is free floated. I had to remove a little plastic at the very front, but it's good to go now.

 

[Eaglet]

Seems to me you've got some bad bedding issues. Sounds like when you tighten the
screws down it creates stress on the action.

You need to solve all of that.

My 338 Edge on a 110 action was glass bedded making sure it'd be stress free and
the tang floated. It'll shoot 1/2 moa any time you get a shooter capable of doing it.

 

[idaho elk hunter]

Savages are inherently accurate due to their floating bolt head and strong action design. Their week points are the flimsy plastic stock and bedding. This was known by Savage and they corrected it by "offering" the accustock. IT WORKS! If you do not have one then fill the stock in the forearm with Devcon or Marine Tex and float the barrel so you have a 32nd of a inch clearance between the barrel and stock. Bed the lug and action and if you want pillar it. Where Savage is week, All of their newer barrels suck. And they suck bad! Cheap somewhat fix, firelap your self with a kit that's avail from NECO industries. Or the best alternative call Pac Nor up in Oregon and have them send you a barrel that you can install yourself. Simple to do on a Savage. If you do the barrel and the stock you will be outshootin the full custom rifles out there with not much money invested. Make sure that when you shooting your supporting the rifle off the forearm and not off the barrel..thats my 2cents worth let us know how it turns out

 

[geargrinder]

How often are you cleaning?

My 300win never liked to be shot clean. It would drasticly reduce group size after 15-20 rounds. Once I figured it out, I never cleaned it again. It had about 300 rounds through it when I sold it, and it was still shooting sub-moa groups.

 

[1FastGambler]

It does have the accu stock.

The barrel has been cleaned religiously with KG products very similar to the break in procedure on PAC Nor's website. The last outing I let it go 8 rounds without cleaning.

I will try the suggestions mentioned so far.

Thanks for all the input!

 

[MMERSS]

How meticulous are you with your reloading? By this I'm referring to reloading the best possible match ammo for a factory gun, or any gun of that matter. If you can articulate every aspect of your reloading process you are headed there! I have experienced more than one occasion a factory rifle shooting quality reloaded ammo performing better than a custom rifle with "so so" reloaded ammunition.

Sporter contour barrels on factory guns can be very picky with internal ballistics and harmonics to include torque settings. My Savage LRH during load development was around 2"+ initially with proven recipes. I make significant changes in powder charge and seating depth during development if warranted. Once I see a change in group size it's time to refine to smaller changes. Sometimes as much as .005" in seating depth and/or .1 gr. powder charge make all the difference. Not to mention a change in primer.

No set solution. Frequently changes to powder charge and seating depth are a good start. For the most part if a proven recipe doesn't work, it's trial and multiple trips to the range…hence why custom guns with a proven load can be much easier to work with.

 

[myrifleisLapua]

I had a 338 lapua long range hunter it was not truly free floated. also the accustock is a aluminum bedding block. mine shot fine