Savage 111 LRH 6.5-284 Loading Questions

[BrentM]

Yeah all the bad hype is from BR shooters hopping the loads up, strings of fire, etc. A hunter will likely see well into the 2000 mark by keeping pressures low and firing on cool barrels.

I am not sure about the throat issue. I never measure my bullet tip to case base, pointless to me. My ogive to case base on a contact to the lands is 2.582 for a berger 140 vld hunting. From there I just back out to .075 off or 2.507. Amax's and SMK's are a little different but fairly close. However, their tip to ogive is quite a but different.

 

[Sargesniper]

I appreciate the help. Don't believe I'll ever wear the barrel out. I'm figuring could be as many as 300 shots to get it shooting the way I want and lined up. And I'll shoot it some for fun. Probably 50 rounds a year. At that rate it should last a pretty good while. When its burned out ill probably just by a whole new gun cuz it'll prob be beat up from years of use. We hunt a lot here with not a lot of shooting. Eastern totes are hard to call so maybe 10 yote shots a year. 5 deer. 40-50 fun shooting. That's many years of use to hit 1000 rounds.

One other thing on the 6.5x284. When cleaning it,make SURE you clean that stubborn carbon ring just ahead of the chamber. That is believed to be the worst enemy. Carbon build up in this area will accelerate throat erosion no matter how low your pressures are. Good luck and shoot bug holes. ...........SEMPER FI!

 

[BrentM]

Good info. How do you identify if you have an issue? I look inside best I can, feel for a sticky or drag area, and ensure I have no color on my patches. Is there a better way? I use wipe out, accelerator, and cr 10.

 

[Sargesniper]

Good info. How do you identify if you have an issue? I look inside best I can, feel for a sticky or drag area, and ensure I have no color on my patches. Is there a better way? I use wipe out, accelerator, and cr 10.

To find it you run a cleaning rod through and out past the muzzle. Then screw on a new nylon brush. Slowly pull back without stopping until you feel resistance. It usually occurs anywhere from 6" away from the end of the chamber to right at the start of the rifling. lloso paste is very good at removing it. Hope this helps you. ........SEMPER FI!

 

[ShootnMathews]

Been doing a lot of research trying to find out if I should freefloat my LRH barrel or not. As several people have mentioned, my forearm touched right at the end. Appeared to be purposely touching. I have not shot it yet. The weather has been too bad. But I have found a lot about others having to freefloat the barrel to get consistent accuracy. Which makes sense to me. All of my good shooting guns I have floated. So I floated this one too. Suppose to be 50 here Thursday. Hoping to shoot these test loads.

 

[Greyfox]

I would absolutely free float the LRH.

 

[BrentM]

I agree with Greyfox. Why would you not? For example, I don't think, perhaps I am wrong, there is a long range rifle made anywhere today that has a contact point stock. Free floating, especially a lighter contour barrel is ideal. First thing I did with my new rifle was to ensure no contact on that barrel anywhere. Fortunately this rifle was well made and there is ample and consistent room around the barrel at all points. Nicely done savage.

 

[ShootnMathews]

My stock had a small evenly formed lip about 1/8" wide that went across the end of the forearm. So the barrel was evenly contacted all the way around at then end of the stock. Looked very purposely formed that way. Just took 1 minute of less to dremel it down even to the rest of the Channel and then it was nice and evenly freefloated.

 

[Sargesniper]

My stock had a small evenly formed lip about 1/8" wide that went across the end of the forearm. So the barrel was evenly contacted all the way around at then end of the stock. Looked very purposely formed that way. Just took 1 minute of less to dremel it down even to the rest of the Channel and then it was nice and evenly freefloated.

HI ShootnMathews, if you have trouble after the freefloated barrel,have a look at the Tang. This too should be free of the stock. .............SEMPER FI!

 

[ShootnMathews]

Thanks. I didn't know the tang should be floated also. Since its setting right beside me I just checked it. A once folded dollar bill wil slide all the way around the tang so ill call that good. Thanks again.

 

[hop700]

I also have the LRH 6.5-284. Before pulling the trigger I noticed the barrel was not free floating. Pulled the stock and notice that the aluminum bedding block had plastic flashed over from the overmolding process. If you feel a soft (or less than hard stop) when torquing down the actions screws you may well have the same issue. I took a razor along the top edge of the bedding block, the plastic did not adhere to the aluminum so it pulled right off. I replaced the barreled action, screws torqued with a hard stop (as they should), the barrel was free floating.

Scott

 

[Sargesniper]

Thanks. I didn't know the tang should be floated also. Since its setting right beside me I just checked it. A once folded dollar bill wil slide all the way around the tang so ill call that good. Thanks again.

I bought a .280 Rem. back around 1980. It too had a pressure point near the fore end. I, like you, always like mine free floated. I, like you, removed the pressure point. Big mistake! The thing would not shoot. I wound up Glass bedding the action and the fore end. It will to this day shoot 1/2 to 3/4 @ 100 yds. This was a Rem. L/A though with a buggy whip barrel. It is the only rifle i have that is not free floated. Just goes to show you that there are individuals that like to be different! Good luck with with the Savage, as i have no doubt it will perform the way you want it to. Oh by the way, before i go, i bedded my Savage F-Class receiver with DEVCON ALUM. PUTTY on top of being pillar bedded. Just another thought for you in case??? I wanted to have 65 in. pounds at the front instead of the 40 recomended by Savage. You can call Savage for your particular specs. got to go now. Good luck and shoot bug holes. .....SEMPER FI!

 

[Greyfox]

I bought a .280 Rem. back around 1980. It too had a pressure point near the fore end. I, like you, always like mine free floated. I, like you, removed the pressure point. Big mistake! The thing would not shoot. I wound up Glass bedding the action and the fore end. It will to this day shoot 1/2 to 3/4 @ 100 yds. This was a Rem. L/A though with a buggy whip barrel. It is the only rifle i have that is not free floated. Just goes to show you that there are individuals that like to be different! Good luck with with the Savage, as i have no doubt it will perform the way you want it to. Oh by the way, before i go, i bedded my Savage F-Class receiver with DEVCON ALUM. PUTTY on top of being pillar bedded. Just another thought for you in case??? I wanted to have 65 in. pounds at the front instead of the 40 recomended by Savage. You can call Savage for your particular specs. got to go now. Good luck and shoot bug holes. .....SEMPER FI!

One thing I found with a few Savages I own is that the Allen heads on the stock bolts can strip out at too much over 45#. Quality control of these screws appears poor. Also the Accustock bedding block cradle is flexible along the sides of the receiver iftighened
over 40#, the trigger group can jam. If additional bedding were used on the Accustock, careful attention would have to be given to the bedding depth of the action and I would still be be cautious about going too heavy on the torque, at least on the rear bolt, and likely the front, if it's one with the wedge design. IMHO.

 

[Sargesniper]

One thing I found with a few Savages I own is that the Allen heads on the stock bolts can strip out at too much over 45#. Quality control of these screws appears poor. Also the Accustock bedding block cradle is flexible along the sides of the receiver iftighened
over 40#, the trigger group can jam. If additional bedding were used on the Accustock, careful attention would have to be given to the bedding depth of the action and I would still be be cautious about going too heavy on the torque, at least on the rear bolt, and likely the front, if it's one with the wedge design. IMHO.

Good point Greyfox. I was thinking of my F-Class stock which is laminated wood with aluminum pillars. I am not familiar with the Accu-stock.As for the stock screws, i have had no issue with them at 65 in. pounds. I also bedded it with DEVCON ALUM. material. and it is working fine for me. Thanks for the info. ........SEMPER FI!