Savage 110 FCP 338 Lapua Question

Hunter15

Active Member
Joined
Apr 17, 2012
Messages
42
Location
PA
I recently purchased a Savage 110 FCP 338 Lapua in the Hs-precision stock. I am in the procees of working up a load and have yet to find the "magic ingredients". So first I will list my current load combinations. I am shooting 300gr Berger Elite Hunters out of Lapua Brass. This is accompanied with various amounts of H1000 and CCI magnum primers. Through out the various powder charges they have all consistantly shot an approx. 1.5" group at 100 yds. Obviously this gun is capable of much more. So, my question to you is where do I go from here. I am thinking of jumping to retumbo and testing. If that doesnt work I was thinking of the 300gr SMK. Does this sound like a reasonble process of elimination. I am not new to LR shooting or relaoding but, on the same token I am no expert. Let me know your thoughts and what you would do if faced with this situation. Just as a side note I did not plan to change seating depth (which is at .020 off lands) until I found a tighter shooting group. Does that seem reasonable? Any and all of your help is greatly appreciated!
 
Try some Retumbo and start at 89gr. and work up. My Lapua likes 94.0gr with the 300gr hybrid. I have mine .015" off the lands, but you may have to seat them out to the lands to get the accuracy you are looking for. You could also take the best load you have as of now and try different seating depths and see what happens. If that doesn't fix the problem and you groups don't tighten up check to see if there isn't something loose. Also make sure that the barrel isn't touching the stock anywhere and is completely free floated, make sure you do this in the position that you would normally shoot from. Ie from a bypod and rear bag! Lastly you may have to move out to say 200 yards for load development to allow the bullet to stableize in flight.
 
I agree with savageshtr about a 200 yard group. I have the same rifle, shoot the same bullet, brass, powder, and primer, and get the same 3/4 inch groups at 100 and 200. I started seating depth at max mag length and finished testing with 89.5 grains H-1000.
 
Hate to ask but... is the rifle bedded? It sounds like typical results of an unbedded factory rifle.:D
 
Thanks for all the suggestions! Keep any additional thoughts coming. To answer Angus' question this is a bone stock rifle. I took it off the shelf, slapped a Vortex Viper PST 6 x 24 -50 on it and started load development. I was going to put it through the rounds before having any work done to it. I still have 150+ 300gr Berger hunting Elite's and a decent amount of H1000 left. I think I will run the seating depth test Berger suggests and then go from there. If that doesnt work I'm going to try some retumbo. In the end if nothing works I'll send it to my smith for some work and go from there. Again, keep those suggestions coming. I like to here and consider other opinions. Thanks!
 
Before I ever shot mine I had it bedded. Then loaded 88gr. of h1000 with 300gr bergers and it shoots so well that I haven't changed it since.

In that caliber, 100yd groups don't mean squat. You should really focus your hand loading results based on 200-300yds. Mine shoots tighter at 200 than 100.
 
I have the 110 BA 338 lapua and I had similar issues at first. what is your round count on the barrel? after about 65 - 75 rounds mine went from a 1"- 1 1/2" at 300 yards to 1/2"-1". How did you break it in? How many rounds between cleanings? I'm at rough 125 rounds and it is a consistent 1/2" rig at 300 yards. What is your load with h1000?

Hope I can help, Eric
 
Seating depth......this is nothing more than a fine tuning step...the last step after you have found powder type and weight. Another tuning device is neck tension.

I have never taken a 1 1/2 moa gun and tweaked the seating depth and turned it into a 3/4 moa gun. It ain't going to happen.

I have twelvteen differn't comp tubes in various calibers that shoot the Berger Hybirds, VLD's, and old fasioned BT's. I have NEVER found one that shot better way off of the lands...EVER..... Ten out at most. Usually ten IN!!

I have a couple of LR hunting rigs that shoot the VLD. I used to load some long near the lands and some short to fit the mag. They pretty much shot the same...enough so that I quit loading the long ones to single feed. But, those are hunting guns, and the deer don't know a 5" 1000 yard group from a 7 inch!!!

Just my .02,
Tod
 
I am using retumbo in mine with the bergers. I get better groups with it than h1000. My best group with the rifle is 3 5/8" at 1000 yards. I have the bergers seated at mag length. I also tried the smk and the bergers would punch through my steel and the smk would just dent it at a grand. Hope this helps in making a decision Ryan
 
Thanks again for the continued help! This rifle has only had 30 rnds down the tube so they may be a big contributing factor to my testing thus far. I am not one for a religous break in of the barrel but have been cleaning every 4-6 shots since the first 5 rounds have been put down range. The more I read the more I lean towards stretching my zero out to 200 or 300 yards. I know this is just the beginning and I may be a little anxious to find the "perfect" load. I just can't wait to start stretching this rifle out onto some steel. I also have a WY antelope hunt in the works if the draw works out! I'll keep everyone posted when I get back out to shoot. Keep the suggestions coming!
 
working a load and overall length up can seem to take for ever!!! keep with it and you'll find the sweet spot eventually. but if you think you have the load worked out keep shooting it. i think round count is playing a big roll on your group size. between 75-150 you will start seeing it tightening up id think.

good luck with your shooting.

500
 
I have the same rifle and the same scope sitting at home waiting for me. Did you ever get the load worked up? I am trying to get as much input as possible. I cant wait to get back from Afghanistan and start shooting it.
 
How is the accuracy out of the FCP? I have been thinking it might be a good way to get into a 338 for the cheap end for something just to play with for a while. I don't want to waste the money if they aren't worth it.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 12 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.

Recent Posts

Top