My rifle is in 7 PRC. I can't get dependable accuracy. Usually around 2-3 MOA. My next thought is to glass bed it, but I also feel I shouldn't have to do so as the receiver mates up against the stock's aluminum insert. Is it common to bed a stock with an aluminum chassis? The Ruger has the angled front receiver screw which should pull down and back into the chassis. Just spitballing here as I have fired several hundred rounds trying to find something accurate.
Ruger Hawkeye Hunter FTW -- With HS Precision Stock
- Thread starter Cholla
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std7mag
Well-Known Member
When did they put an aluminum chassis system in the Hawkeye stock?
Is it not laminate wood?
Is it not laminate wood?
It is a synthetic HS Precision stock. The FTW model comes standard with it.
My Ruger FTW was 3006 and in a wooden stock that looked synthetic. It was accurate but I hated the trigger so I sent it on.
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I just found out glass bedding will void the warranty. And HS claims it doesn't need bedding.
std7mag
Well-Known Member
Many of the aftermarket stocks with the aluminum chassis in them call for 50lbin torque.
Unfortunately Ruger just says "tighten action screws" giving no torque value.
I've found that the 50lbin is way too much.
I torque the front screw to 35lbin, and the rear to 15lbin.
Shoot 3 shots and increase the rear screw torque by 5lbin steps up to 35lbin.
The process is outlined in the article that I'll link to.
It's the action tuning process for Savage rifles but works for the Ruger, Mossberg, Rem and other rifles also.
Unfortunately Ruger just says "tighten action screws" giving no torque value.
I've found that the 50lbin is way too much.
I torque the front screw to 35lbin, and the rear to 15lbin.
Shoot 3 shots and increase the rear screw torque by 5lbin steps up to 35lbin.
The process is outlined in the article that I'll link to.
It's the action tuning process for Savage rifles but works for the Ruger, Mossberg, Rem and other rifles also.
What is your optics setup?
The manual for this rifle has 95 inch pounds for the front angled screw and 65 for the back from what I remember. I'm not at home to check.
MagnumManiac
Well-Known Member
May I suggest following some checks before condemning the rifle.
Loosen the rear screw, shoot a group.
Loosen the trigger guard screw and just nip it up, shoot a group.
Loosen the front screw and nip it up to 40inch/lbs.
If no improvement, cinch up the front and rear screws to 45inch/lbs and only nip up the trigger guard screw so it doesn't loosen from recoil.
If none of these improve anything, I would send it back to Ruger.
Cheers.
Loosen the rear screw, shoot a group.
Loosen the trigger guard screw and just nip it up, shoot a group.
Loosen the front screw and nip it up to 40inch/lbs.
If no improvement, cinch up the front and rear screws to 45inch/lbs and only nip up the trigger guard screw so it doesn't loosen from recoil.
If none of these improve anything, I would send it back to Ruger.
Cheers.
Rugers can be fickle beings. Every one I've owned shot very well and I usually do a few things to them before even firing them.
1) make sure the mag box isn't binding the action
2) ruger rings are crude and really need a good lapping to be true. I have yet to see a set that matched up better than 50% clean up on a lapping bar initially.
3) make sure the barrel is floating
4) my usual torque value on the front screw is tight and the rear screw is just firmly snug. Just tighten the middle screw enough to where it won't come loose easily.
This usually produces a fine shooting rifle in my experience. Also when you tighten ring caps do so in a x pattern a little at a time making sure the gaps are equal on either side. I usually torque to 20 inch pounds.
1) make sure the mag box isn't binding the action
2) ruger rings are crude and really need a good lapping to be true. I have yet to see a set that matched up better than 50% clean up on a lapping bar initially.
3) make sure the barrel is floating
4) my usual torque value on the front screw is tight and the rear screw is just firmly snug. Just tighten the middle screw enough to where it won't come loose easily.
This usually produces a fine shooting rifle in my experience. Also when you tighten ring caps do so in a x pattern a little at a time making sure the gaps are equal on either side. I usually torque to 20 inch pounds.
