Remove and Replace Scope on Picatinny Rail

[Ron J]

As the title reads I'm wondering if I can remove a zeroed scope (mounted on Picatinny Rail) take it off, and replace it in the same position and still have it zeroed?

I'm wondering because I had to purchase an extra large case for my 110LM, and there is room for another rifle if I could take the scope off.

I'm guessing it's a long shot, but I thought I'd ask here before testing the theory and having to zero the rifle again.

Thanks,

RW

 

[ShtrRdy]

I've done this a couple times with one rifle I have. The first time the point of impact was the same. The second time I had to adjust 1 click elevation and 1 click windage.

 

[Ron J]

I've done this a couple times with one rifle I have. The first time the point of impact was the same. The second time I had to adjust 1 click elevation and 1 click windage.

Thanks ShtrRdy....

I think I'm going to give it a try.... one click each way might have been the mount... But that raises the question was the scope mounted flat level and plain originally or the other way around.

I think one would need to make some pretty good bench marks at it's zero.

I was wondering if anyone had tried it.

Anyway, Thanks again my friend

RW

 

[Rick Richard]

Never take it for granted that it will repeat zero. I have never been able to achieve the same point of impact without readjusting to some degree. It may be close at shorter distances, but not in the ball park at longer distances.

 

[bill123]

I have Badger rings and SB scope. I called Badger to see if this was ok to do. I was worried about torque if things didn't line up properly. Badger said it was fine. I then tested it out: 6, 5 shot groups, removing and replacing scope after each group. Each group returned to within .1mil each time. Just make sure u use a torque wrench.

 

[J E Custom]

There is a way to help maintain your zero very close each time.

I mark the cross pin groove on the Picatinny rail inside the front ring with a gray Permanent marker where it mounts to be sure it goes back in in the same place.

After it is marked, re install the scope by hand and point the muzzle down to remove any slack between the scope base and the Picatinny rail, Tighten by hand first pushing forward on the scope and then follow with the proper torque. (Recoil tends to push any slack out forward when fired).

I recommend that you try this at the range several times and after the first time reset your zero
if needed, then If it repeats within reason, you are good to go.

It is always best to check your zero after removing and replacing you scope, But with care, good quality Bases and Picatinny rails it is possible to get good results as long as you have a good assembly procedure and follow it every time.

Note: The picatinny rail should be bedded to the receiver to prevent any possible change in position
for best results.

J E CUSTOM

 

[FEENIX]

Why take the chance, there's enough Murphy's Law incidents out there as it is already.

IIWY, I'd get a separate case for the other rifle and be done with it ... but that's just me.

 

[J E Custom]

To add to this, There are mounting systems designed to be taken on and off. And at times, removing expensive glass for rough/long trips would not be a bad idea like shipping to Africa.

But even the best systems cant guaranty that they will maintain a "Perfect" Zero so a test of the rifle zero before it is put to use is always best.

Even a rifle that is stored in a safe can change zero so with that in mind-------------.

J E CUSTOM

 

[Ron J]

There is a way to help maintain your zero very close each time.

I mark the cross pin groove on the Picatinny rail inside the front ring with a gray Permanent marker where it mounts to be sure it goes back in in the same place.

After it is marked, re install the scope by hand and point the muzzle down to remove any slack between the scope base and the Picatinny rail, Tighten by hand first pushing forward on the scope and then follow with the proper torque. (Recoil tends to push any slack out forward when fired).

I recommend that you try this at the range several times and after the first time reset your zero
if needed, then If it repeats within reason, you are good to go.

It is always best to check your zero after removing and replacing you scope, But with care, good quality Bases and Picatinny rails it is possible to get good results as long as you have a good assembly procedure and follow it every time.

Note: The picatinny rail should be bedded to the receiver to prevent any possible change in position
for best results.

J E CUSTOM

Pretty much what I was thinking or hoping to hear from someone lol.

Why take the chance, there's enough Murphy's Law incidents out there as it is already.

IIWY, I'd get a separate case for the other rifle and be done with it ... but that's just me.

I've got the cases for each of my weapons, but when you can cut down your packing by 50% with the cases built for two with the middle foam it would be nice to be able to utilize the spare room.... although I need to remove the scopes. If I can find a good way to bench mark each scope I would be a happy camper.

Thanks for the input good points all around.... and if anyone will run into Murphy's Law it would be me.

Steady hands, and Best Regards,

RW

 

[Greyfox]

There is a way to help maintain your zero very close each time.

I mark the cross pin groove on the Picatinny rail inside the front ring with a gray Permanent marker where it mounts to be sure it goes back in in the same place.

After it is marked, re install the scope by hand and point the muzzle down to remove any slack between the scope base and the Picatinny rail, Tighten by hand first pushing forward on the scope and then follow with the proper torque. (Recoil tends to push any slack out forward when fired).

I recommend that you try this at the range several times and after the first time reset your zero
if needed, then If it repeats within reason, you are good to go.

It is always best to check your zero after removing and replacing you scope, But with care, good quality Bases and Picatinny rails it is possible to get good results as long as you have a good assembly procedure and follow it every time.

Note: The picatinny rail should be bedded to the receiver to prevent any possible change in position
for best results.

J E CUSTOM

Using the approach described above, I have had good results that are typically within a click or two of the original zero. Many times I have not had to adjust at all. I practice this with my competition rifles where there is always an opportunity to test zero. I do prefer to keep my LR hunting rifles intact and unmolested.

 

[FEENIX]

I've got the cases for each of my weapons, but when you can cut down your packing by 50% with the cases built for two with the middle foam it would be nice to be able to utilize the spare room.... although I need to remove the scopes. If I can find a good way to bench mark each scope I would be a happy camper.

Thanks for the input good points all around.... and if anyone will run into Murphy's Law it would be me.

Steady hands, and Best Regards,

RW

Believe me I know, my .270 AI has 30" barrel + a muzzle brake, it's 54" long. I use a 53" double rifle case and store the rifle diagonally. I fill the empty space with binocs, RF, ammo, and other stuff that I will need for my hunt handy.

Cheers!

I do prefer to keep my LR hunting rifles intact and unmolested.

LL!