• If you are being asked to change your password, and unsure how to do it, follow these instructions. Click here

reloading equipment help

This is probably going to open a can of worms but here goes. Looking at getting into reloading for my 6.5x284.What do you suggest for loader? Don't want a progressive. Scale,Full length dies,seating press. I know there is a lot of things I need . Want to buy once and cry once. Any help with this would be appreciated. I'm not afraid to spend the money for the right gear.
I have several presses on my bench, but use my Redding Turret most of the tIke. Scale is a Charge Master 1500. I also use a bench mounted RCBS primer tool. I use Forster Bench Rest die set (FL), for my 6.5/284.
 
This is probably going to open a can of worms but here goes. Looking at getting into reloading for my 6.5x284.What do you suggest for loader? Don't want a progressive. Scale,Full length dies,seating press. I know there is a lot of things I need . Want to buy once and cry once. Any help with this would be appreciated. I'm not afraid to spend the money for the right gear.

I have read all of the replys you recieved and I agree with all of them, here's my opinion.

I have tried them ALL over the years, to me, The Foster Co-Ax beats them all! Second choice would be the Redding big boss. Both are built like tanks and could proabably load for them as well. Dies are just as important. Again, first choice is Forster, second is Widden, and then Redding.

The draw back on the Forster is it's priming set up. Now I pre prime my brass so that's no longer an issue. Buy the good stuff the first time, these tools may out last you and save you money as well. Good luck.
 
I have read all of the replys you recieved and I agree with all of them, here's my opinion.

I have tried them ALL over the years, to me, The Foster Co-Ax beats them all! Second choice would be the Redding big boss. Both are built like tanks and could proabably load for them as well. Dies are just as important. Again, first choice is Forster, second is Widden, and then Redding.

The draw back on the Forster is it's priming set up. Now I pre prime my brass so that's no longer an issue. Buy the good stuff the first time, these tools may out last you and save you money as well. Good luck.
Thanks
 
I won't tell you what you should get but rather what I use that works for me. One questions is what is your end goal? Will this be a casual hobby or are you looking to make precision loads and add additional calibers down the road?

My equipment is as follows:

  • Forster Co-Ax press
  • Mixture of Forster Micrometer and Redding Competition dies. I recently added a set of Whidden dies and really like them as well.
  • RCBS Chargemaster 1500 (I plan to add a Harrels powder throw at some point)
  • LE Wilson micrometer case trimmer (eventually plan to step up to a Giraud)
  • Forster bench top chamfer/debur tool (see above about the Giraud)
  • I keep a RCBS Rangemaster 750 on hand for general weighing/sorting of cases, bullets, etc.
  • I also keep on hand a Wilson case gauge for every cartridge I load for.

I have future plans to add an AMP annealer and probably an Autotrickler V3.

Regarding presses, the video posted above of the 14 press shootout is a good one to watch.
Thanks as of right now only for hunting. Looking at retirement next year and me and the wife would like to get involved in more target competition
 
I would try and find a mentor or check some ranges they sometimes have classes on reloading and some for precision reloading which if you are going into competition would really be a big help.. Lots of info out there but before going out and buying some get some education from someone that is doing it around you. It will save you in the long run.
 
The Lee Dipper spoons are the best money I ever spent on reloading. Gets your powder super close on the scale every time and then trickle up.
Shep
 
I've reloaded for 30 years with 2 small bench top presses by Lee. Lee hand prime tool is a must. Get a set of Lee dippers and a simple Lyman scale to check the sanity of them. I have NEVER had an issue with this set up and you do NOT need to spend and spend and spend more $ on what people call better name brand equipment. Dippers are the absolute king and wish I had switched 15 years earlier than I did. Get the Lyman cartridge OAL go...no go gauge. Outside of the few case prep tools you'll need, you are about ready.
LOL, I keep my Lee dipper set in my bug out bag.
 
I have read all of the replys you recieved and I agree with all of them, here's my opinion.

I have tried them ALL over the years, to me, The Foster Co-Ax beats them all! Second choice would be the Redding big boss. Both are built like tanks and could proabably load for them as well. Dies are just as important. Again, first choice is Forster, second is Widden, and then Redding.

The draw back on the Forster is it's priming set up. Now I pre prime my brass so that's no longer an issue. Buy the good stuff the first time, these tools may out last you and save you money as well. Good luck.
Why do people complain about priming on the Co-Ax. I love the priming on mine, accurate and perfect seating depth every time. To me the real problem is trying to change over from small primers to large primer cups. Some times screwing or unscrewing the primer cup can be a real pain. I have 7 different ways to prime my cases here at home were I don't even have to touch the primers. But,, I find the primer set up on the Forster to be the most accurate at seating a prime into a case. It's perfect every time. At first I was real skeptical about the priming system my self, but after a couple of YouTube videos and practice, I got my system down on priming with the Forster,, My left hand never comes off the handle and my right hand does all the work,,, load a primer, insert a case and pull the handle. Pretty dog gone fast if you ask me, for perfectly seated primers every time. I still hate changing out the primer cups That's the only thing I hate about Co-Ax.
 
For accurate rifle reloading, I think you need:

case cleaning method...I use a cheap dry tumbler, why not?
primer pocket uniformer ...I use the Hornady bits for this on the Lyman Prep center
flash hole uniformer...I use the RCBS tool with pilots on the prep center
vld chamfer....I use the Lyman bit...or maybe Hornady on the prep center
deburr tool....same
neck turner....I prefer my K&M setup, but there are others. Usually need an expander iron too
and here I should mention Lapua brass use probably eliminates all above bput case cleaning
dies....
Basically agree with the Forster & Redding comment, but I make some really good stuff with Hornady dies. Quick tip....If not neck turning, use a pull through expander to force variation to the outside
press.... Lots of good presses mentioned, but again I seem to make pretty good ammo on a Hornady Classic, so I wouldn't ignore those.
headspace (CBTD) comparator..... I value this tool. I use Hornady, but I don't....Any more, I pull the guts out of the bolt and see how the handle closes on a sized case. Still, once you set it, the tool helps you be repetitive.
OAL tool.... good tool but you can do by manual methods
OAL comparator....again, need for repeatability after you find the lands
calipers.... I just use cheap Hornady digital and check to a gauge block
powder dispenser...I use Hornady. It works. It passes check weights, everytime. I'm sure the v2 etc work too. The Hornady was $150.
check weights....talk to most reloaders and they don't trust digita scales. I trust mine because I check it. As long as I continue to reload on earth, these weights will prove themselves handy.
run out tool ....this and the comparators are how you know it is all working. If I reset my dies and neck runout goes from 0.002" to 0.010"....stop and fix the setup!
annealer.... optional, but takes consistency to the next level.
chronograph....no reason to spend all that money making accuracy if you cannot see it
bench rest....a proper rest will speed load maturation more than anything else
notes figure out how to take notes on critical processes so you know what you did to know what to do next with your loads
scientific method....do some reading on doing engineering labs and how to mature multiple variable processes. Hint....only change one variable at a time.....isolate the shooter effect somehow
 
Warning! This thread is more than 5 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.

Recent Posts

Top