Relearning Reloading - Need Advice

[tlk]

I would like to start reloading again, but want to start from absolute scratch to ensure that any old assumptions or gaps in my knowledge are fixed. I am wanting to reload for a 30-06 for LR hunting.

Where do I start (books, videos) in order to get the most accurate round for this application? Thanks for your help with this.

Thanks.

 

[loaders_loft]

My advice would be to start with the most current nosler reloading manual. It lists the most accurate powder tested, and the most accurate charge tested, for each bullet weight. Most likely, you'll want a 165 or 168gr bullet. get an oal gage & comparator set from hornady (formerly marketed by stoney point) and consider using a chargemaster to dispense powders.

I could go on, but I'm also interested to see what others advise...

 

[geargrinder]

I'd also suggest lee deluxe die set with the collet neck sizer.

 

[tlk]

Loaders - got it, thanks and will do.

Geargrinder, lee deluxe vs redding vs forester is where a bunch of my questions are; I realized that a mindless "push-pull" on a rock chucker wont get it right. Most of my reloading experience revolves around lever actions, wheel weights, gas checks and lyman hand loaders. Yup, we are talking a completely different class here, and I am lost.

Thanks for your help guys.

 

[gabby]

I've found the Precision Shooting -reloading guide- edited by Dave Brennan to be extremely helpful. It's about the hows and whys and doesn't get into individual loads. Mike

 

[geargrinder]

The Lee collet set is the best bang for the buck. About $28 for the 3 die set.

You can use the fl sizer to obviously full length size as well as neck size with a shoulder bump. I've heard that some people grind out the neck so that it can bump the shoulder without sizing the neck.

The most important feature is the collet neck sizer. It basically squeezes the neck around a properly sized mandrel. It works brass less and sizes the necks straighter than with a button sizer. The downside of the collet setup is that neck tension cannot be easily adjusted like the bushing dies can.

The seater die included is fair to average. It works as intended. No complaints or praises from me. This would be a good place to spend money and upgrade to one of the "other brand" competition seater dies.

 

[kcebcj]

If you want to start from scratch or if you want to simply improve your reloading skills pick up a copy of Glen D. Zediker's book "Handloading for Competition" Excellent book on reloading.

ISBN 0-9626925-9-X

 

[Winchester 69]

Lee deluxe vs Redding vs Forster is where a bunch of my questions are....

The Forster BR seater (non-micrometer) is a best buy. If you go with a standard sizer, theirs is also a top choice. Between a Redding bushing die or Lee collet die, it's your pick. Considering that the Lee is about the price of a single TiN bushing, you might try it first to see if you like it. The Lee products are not well made and can have excessive variation, but some prefer the design. Redding and Forster products are better made and have a higher level of finish than other brands. A note re: Redding seating dies, the standard Redding seater is not the same design as their micrometer seater or the Forster seaters.

Glen Zediker's book is, beyond his communication style, excellent. After studying it, there's very little you won't understand.
.

 

[loaders_loft]

this sounds like some of the questions I was asking a week or two earlier. I ended up purchasing a forester die set at a good price from Natchez, which arrived last night. I put the full length sizer to work immediately, and its obviously easier on the necks of my cartridges than the previous die I was using. Looking forward to completing these loads with the forester bullet seater also...

When I first started reloading, I watched a couple videos on precision handloading, hosted by John Larroquette (Night Court, Stripes).

I also did some reading, but the videos were much easier to follow and actually "see" how it works.

Then, I had a friend come by and help me set up the first few loads, step by step.

 

[BountyHunter]

Here are two good DVDs to answer all your questions.

this article is from the www.6mmbr.com daily blog on 9 Oct.

Now one will be sure and get at least several pair of panties in a knot here as it is from Richard Franklin. However, he is highly knowledgable and a renowned riflesmith and shooter despite the jealousy shown here.

BH

We often receive emails from shooters who are just getting started in hand-loading for precision rifles. These readers may have experience reloading for pistols or shotguns, but the fine points of producing precision rifle ammo are unfamiliar to them. Many readers seek advice on controlling neck tension, determining optimum bullet seating depth, and tuning loads. These are all key factors in rifle accuracy. Likewise we get many questions about using Wilson hand dies and arbor presses.

Sinclair International is now offering a new DVD entitled, "Advanced Handloading — Beyond The Basics". This 45-minute DVD is hosted by John Barsness, contributing editor of Handloader Magazine and editor of Successful Hunter Magazine. Topics covered include correct case sizing, neck sizing, bushing selection, cartridge O.A.L. and many more. The tools and procedures needed to accomplish these tasks and measure the results are discussed in detail. This DVD was produced as a cooperative effort by Redding Reloading, Sierra Bullets, and Wolfe Publishing. Price is $19.95, Sinclair item 15-05978.
Gunsmith Richard Franklin, whose article on the 30-338 Wildcat is featured this week on our site, has also prepared a very useful instructional DVD. Richard's two-hour-long Precision Reloading for Accuracy DVD explains many of the fine points of loading popular match and varmint cartridges. Richard demonstrates how to prep cases for best accuracy, how to neck-up or neck-down cartridges, how to turn case necks, and how to bump case shoulders properly. Richard's DVD is a great resource if you need help with Wilson-type inline seating and sizing dies. Richard shows how to set up and use Wilson benchrest dies and to choose the right neck bushing for Wilson neck dies. Richard's Precision Reloading DVD costs $24.00. Call 540-890-8649 to order, or email customrifles [at] hughes.net. For varminters, Richard also offers excellent DVDs on GroundHog hunting. A sequel to Richard's popular "Death in the Green Grass" varminting DVD is scheduled for release very soon.

 

[Derek M.]

Just a thought, but since it is so readily available, I suggest you buy about 200 pieces of 30.06 Lapua brass. First choice in primers for me is always Federal Gold Medal match...and in the case of the 30.06, I'd go with the 210Ms. Excellent powders for your caliber the following but there are more:

IMR4350, H4350, Re19, Re22, IMR4064, Varget, H4895, IMR4895, H414, AA2520. I only use the Re22 with 180 or larger bullets.

I'd suggest a 168 gr bullet for good all around use. Check here for a thread on the new Nosler Btip in this wt. However, the Berger VLD in 185 has turned out to be an excellent and accurate bullet. Works on black bears too.

Use a good trimmer, scale, and press. I also advise a concentricity gauge.

As far as dies go, I use only Redding and Forster. I do not like to use an expanding button if I don't have to and IMO, the best button for sizing is the football shaped one by Hornady. What I did with all of my sizing dies is take the preferred brand of brass and seat a bullet. Measure the OD of that loaded round in the center of the neck. Subtract .0025 from that and send the die back to the manufacturer and have them hone it to that size. I personally prefer to have it size the brass to where it squeezes the neck only about .001 after any springback. I noticed that with all my brass, and sizing them with the expander, it opened up that much anyway.

This does 2 things. One, it helps so that you do not overwork your brass. Two: it also allows for not necessarily needing your expander when sizing, so the chances of runout are greatly reduced. For what it is worth, Forster charges $10 for this and Redding charges $20. My Redding 270 Win sizer was reducing the neck by about .010 or more which is ridiculous.

Anneal your brass after about 4-6 firings.

I only use the micrometer seating dies in either brand.

READ the books mentioned in this thread and BUY a couple of good DVDs. You'll be glad you did.

Never start with a maximum load that is published in a book and think it will automatically be safe in your rifle.

The seating depth of the bullet can be of great importance to repeatable accuracy. You must find the sweet spot.

 

[tlk]

Wow. I am very grateful for all of the help I have found here.

Thanks for all the info!! I'll get to the learning now.

 

[loaders_loft]

Certainly there will be more questions once you get started. Post them here or find an experienced local in your area to guide you hands on...

Remember, speed is fine, but accuracy is final. (stolen from an article I once read...)

 

[srhaggerty]

What I did with all of my sizing dies is take the preferred brand of brass and seat a bullet. Measure the OD of that loaded round in the center of the neck. Subtract .0025 from that and send the die back to the manufacturer and have them hone it to that size. I personally prefer to have it size the brass to where it squeezes the neck only about .001 after any springback. I noticed that with all my brass, and sizing them with the expander, it opened up that much anyway.

This does 2 things. One, it helps so that you do not overwork your brass. Two: it also allows for not necessarily needing your expander when sizing, so the chances of runout are greatly reduced. For what it is worth, Forster charges $10 for this and Redding charges $20. My Redding 270 Win sizer was reducing the neck by about .010 or more which is ridiculous.

Could you just buy the Redding S type full length bushing die and achieve the same results?