Recoil lug bedding?

[Goobie270]

Ok thanks everyone, I know about marine tex and Devon, but I've also heard that the jb weld works too, I want the best epoxy.

 

[WildRose]

Ok thanks everyone, I know about marine tex and Devon, but I've also heard that the jb weld works too, I want the best epoxy.

JB weld will work as long as you mix it exactly right, but the Devcon Putty and Marine Tex are much easier to work with and give better results.

 

[claybreaker]

I've only done 3 or 4 rifles and I can recommend Marine Tex and good ole Johnson's Paste was as the release agent.

Good Luck,

 

[Cless]

I don't recommend JB Weld because of the metallic properties of the mixture. When used in wet conditions the JB Weld can cause rust problems to metal surfaces.

 

[WildRose]

I don't recommend JB Weld because of the metallic properties of the mixture. When used in wet conditions the JB Weld can cause rust problems to metal surfaces.

Hmm, I've used it on several that I've done and I've never seen that problem.

Interesting.

The Devcon comes with metal additives too (for strength and machineability as I understand it) and I've never seen such a problem from it either. Have you seen it?

 

[Dosh]

No one has given their opinion on how far past the recoil lug one should go, which make gets the tang area bedded (most?) which do not (savage). Also the Savage barrel nut with the splines must have the splines filled with modeling clay to prevent mechanically bonding to the stock. Release agents like Kiwi Neutral and where to tape. Perhaps a member here considering an attempt at doing a bedding could benefit from all the experiences of the more well informed here in order to attain a good bedding. These questions will obviously cause debates over how each procedure is accomplished, but we owe the novice (which we all once were, or are) as much info as possible.

 

[gohring3006]

I'm going to touch on a couple of things.
First, I have several guns bedded with JB weld and never noticed and rust issues.
I'm not saying it couldn't happen, but the rust issue could happen with no bedding or any type of bedding. Especially if one would go out in the field when it was wet, then not take the barreled action out of the stock to clean and lube afterwards.


As far as the bedding past the lug. I don't bed the barrel nut. I wrap it with tape, and relieve the excess bedding overflow afterwards. I know some people do, and have very good results from it. I don't like to do more than than what has to be done. Some people will "tune" the gun by bedding forward of the lug and removing small amounts of bedding until they find good groups. I usually find a node thru ladder test. But to be honest I never really had a rifle give me fits to where I couldn't find accuracy. If I did have a temperamental rifle, I would not hesitate to experiment with bedding tune.

 

[Canadian Bushman]

Why not bed 100% of the recoil lug?

 

[WildRose]

No one has given their opinion on how far past the recoil lug one should go, which make gets the tang area bedded (most?) which do not (savage). Also the Savage barrel nut with the splines must have the splines filled with modeling clay to prevent mechanically bonding to the stock. Release agents like Kiwi Neutral and where to tape. Perhaps a member here considering an attempt at doing a bedding could benefit from all the experiences of the more well informed here in order to attain a good bedding. These questions will obviously cause debates over how each procedure is accomplished, but we owe the novice (which we all once were, or are) as much info as possible.

If you'll get on youtube you can get very good, hands on instruction that is a lot better than you can get with us typing it out here.

Personally I bed the entire action rather than just the recoil lug.

 

[Cless]

Personally, no I have not seen it but when I did my very first pillar and action bedding job on a .308 I was building I did a lot of research on the best bedding compounds. Apparently JB Weld has iron particles in it where others have aluminum, magnesium, or stainless particles in them. I'm no metallurgist but makes sense to me. I ended up using Acraglass and for my very first try it came out perfect. Just my opinion but any future projects I take on, I will use the Acraglass because of the results of my first attempt.

 

[bigngreen]

No one has given their opinion on how far past the recoil lug one should go, which make gets the tang area bedded (most?) which do not (savage). Also the Savage barrel nut with the splines must have the splines filled with modeling clay to prevent mechanically bonding to the stock. Release agents like Kiwi Neutral and where to tape. Perhaps a member here considering an attempt at doing a bedding could benefit from all the experiences of the more well informed here in order to attain a good bedding. These questions will obviously cause debates over how each procedure is accomplished, but we owe the novice (which we all once were, or are) as much info as possible.

He had a simple question, why go into a complete lecture on bedding, guys ask what they need to know and he did not ask for a complete bedding guide.

 

[Pdvdh]

I asked about this prior to bedding my 338 Rogue, and got little input and varying opinions. Finally was time to proceed, so I made a decision and bedded it with tape on the front, bottom, and one side of the lug. The side that didn't resist the torque from the bullet rotation. The side of the lug that resists rotational torque was not taped.

Differing approaches are used by different gunsmiths. And the rifles seem to shoot well and maintain POI equally well, based on the research I completed. The best method seems to be nebulously tied to the individual gunsmith's preferences. Which is probably why I received so little input at the time I solicited it.

It's similar to asking which bedding compound is the best. Of course the best is the one the gunsmith uses. Or which pillars are the best...

On bedding compound - I've used Devcon on a half dozen rifles with good results. But the next time I purchase bedding compound I'll purchase Marine Tex Gray. From my research (and I'm a "researcher"), I decided Marine Tex get's the slight preference over Devcon. And as bigngreen stated, Marine Tex can be purchased in smaller sized containers - which can be more cost effective.

So many preferred methods that it almost seems like VooDoo.

 

[Brad615]

Anyone know how long it takes for the devcon steel puddy to dry? I let one dry for 16 hrs & it was still not cured? To the point I was able to remove the bedding & start over. It was my first time using devcon so I guess its possible I didn't mix correctly? However I really don't think that's the case. I did read the it was workable after 16 hours & completely cured after 24 hrs? If anyone has any suggestions? I was thinking to remove stock after 24 hrs or should I let it cure longer? If so any risk letting it cure/dry to long as far as separating stock?
Thanks.

 

[Bullet bumper]

This thread is bizarre no place can I see WHAT KIND OF ACTION is to be bedded .
Different action types require different techniques . Are we just assuming a Rem 700 ?