Why don't I hear anyone mention smoothing out the cocking mechanism of a Rem. 700 bolt? A gunsmith told me it can be done. It's the one thing I really don't like about Rem. bolts. Installed a stiffer firing pin spring on one and the bolt got real sticky and felt like I was grinding metal. The bolt almost got locked down and I had to use more force than I liked to get it to lift open. Had to remove the spring and do a little smoothing of the surface of the cocking piece that seemed to get a little gaulled and went back to the original spring. Anybody ever do this kind of work? Seems like the few custom actions I've handled had a much better feel when lowering the bolt and they seem to use the same principle.
R700 cocking mechanism work
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ShtrRdy
Well-Known Member
I asked a similar question about a month ago:
http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f37/how-reduce-bolt-lift-163985/
I'd still like to try a lighter Firing Pin Spring.
http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f37/how-reduce-bolt-lift-163985/
I'd still like to try a lighter Firing Pin Spring.
Thanks for the link. As one person said, only a handful of people know how or have the ability to get at the problem - that is saying a lot and perhaps why no one really talks about it. Polishing is not too difficult and can definitely help and that's what I had to do but still not really smooth or too much force required to cock the firing pin when lowering the bolt. I'm guessing it is partly a geometry thing and partly how far you are setting the firing pin back. I'm no expert, but like I said in the original post, I really don't like it, and it doesn't seem to be that bad with the few custom actions I've cycled the bolt on.
Canadian Bushman
Well-Known Member
Its entirely a geometry thing.
Like you experienced you can polish or buff the cocking cam and cocking piece but the gains are small. To really get an action running right it takes some pretty serious re-work and once that metal is gone there is no bringing it back.
When you weigh what people are willing to pay to properly time and action and the risk involved you soon understand why not many smiths are willing to mess with it.
J E Custom
Well-Known Member
The cocking piece has nothing to do with the feel of the trigger It 's purpose is to hold the firing pin back and if you smooth it to much it will allow the firing pin to fall when you don't want it to.
The trigger sear is what moves as you pull the trigger and when it clears it allows the cocking piece to collapse and release's the firing pin.
In fact you don't want a super smooth cocking piece (The smoother the finish, the more likely it will release prematurely.
Worn cocking pieces and worn bolts can cause accidental firing even if the trigger is never activated.
Warning: Don't mess with the cocking piece. It is not smooth on purpose. Most factories will sell you some parts but not the cocking piece. They want the complete action, bolt and trigger in order to install a new cocking piece
J E CUSTOM
The trigger sear is what moves as you pull the trigger and when it clears it allows the cocking piece to collapse and release's the firing pin.
In fact you don't want a super smooth cocking piece (The smoother the finish, the more likely it will release prematurely.
Worn cocking pieces and worn bolts can cause accidental firing even if the trigger is never activated.
Warning: Don't mess with the cocking piece. It is not smooth on purpose. Most factories will sell you some parts but not the cocking piece. They want the complete action, bolt and trigger in order to install a new cocking piece
J E CUSTOM
Hired Gun
Well-Known Member
This is very regular gunsmith work. When I run into a sticky bolt lift rarely is the cocking piece the culprit. It's usually the softer cocking cam surface on the end of the bolt. I do whatever is needed to get it straitened up and then polish it up. I do the same on the cocking piece cam edge if needed. It's important to keep that surface clean and greased to maintain it.
I have never had a problem with the factory firing pin spring. Remington has a lot of experience getting this right and have done a good job finding the right balance of reliable ignition and not wearing excessively. I advise not messing with the heavy or lighter springs.
I have never had a problem with the factory firing pin spring. Remington has a lot of experience getting this right and have done a good job finding the right balance of reliable ignition and not wearing excessively. I advise not messing with the heavy or lighter springs.
Canadian Bushman
Well-Known Member
Am i the only one who thinks the op is referring to ignition/extraction timing?
I got the feeling i misunderstood the question.
I got the feeling i misunderstood the question.
Hired Gun
Well-Known Member
You were not alone but the way it reads, it was about a galled up bolt cocking cam and cocking piece causing a difficult to raise bolt handle due to a heavy firing pin spring.
Canadian Bushman
Well-Known Member
^^^ If thats the case disregard my post.
Yes, it apparently got galled to be point of not being able to lift the bolt without using a lot of force. I didn't think it would lift without using a hammer! It was already quite rough. I said 'mechanism' since there are two parts that rub together that contribute to the drag so it could be either or both of those pieces, especially if the metals are different. I specifically am referring to the lowering and lifting of the bolt, with or without a cartridge. That's it. Not talking about triggers or sliding the bolt back and forth. It always takes some effort on the few R700 actions I am familiar with. Custom actions seem to require less effort and are smoother when lifting or closing the bolt so I assume something is different (but still safe). Could be the metal, could be polishing, could be the shape, etc.
