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Question about zeroing a rifle.

Well that is true MarkyMark todays high bc bullets are changing a lot of our shooting. Some of the new high bc bullets are not useabe in older rifles though due to slow twist rates. The slower powders have he;ped a lot too. I guess it is not just slower but different burn techniques have sped things up. Mostly it is the new powders makin fast cartridges even faster. Making for even flatter trajectories. Which at least to me makes 200yd and beyond zeroes easier. By that I mean less concern of shooting over your target because it was closer than you guessed. When shooting and zeroing your rifle I would say if 200 is your perfered zero. Shoot 200yds or meters where your range finder says that is. Because lets face it guessing range and shooting it increases your chance for a wounded animal. Even flat shooting rifles seem to drop more after 300yds. 300ydsseems to be the point where drop rates become much more apperent. If some one can explain this I would like to here it. There are some things in shooting that make no sense. With my 338 RUM 300grn Berger combo speed seems to drop more from 0 to300. Than it does from 300 and beyond.
 
There are some things in shooting that make no sense. With my 338 RUM 300grn Berger combo speed seems to drop more from 0 to300. Than it does from 300 and beyond.
I believe this is due to the higher drag on the projectile. The faster something moves through a medium, the higher the resistance to its movement. Thus, a projectile will shed speed faster as its initial velocity is increased. As it slows, resistance (drag) is reduced and rate of velocity decrease slows as well.
 
If the "flat shooting" cartridge is so flat what's 100 yards? I bet the difference in zero is 1.5" or less. Thought you said it was flat shooting lol.

I've actually missed a shot on game due to my 200 yard zero because in the heat of the hunt I forgot. Shot right over that coyote's head. The guy with me who nailed it (on the run) was zeroed at 100. 100 is money for so many reasons many already covered.

As previously stated I would bet the scope has a reticle and turrets for LR shooting. Why have the stuffs and not use them? 🤔
 
I zeroed my 338 RUM on saturday for 200yds. Later I got looking at my Kestrel and it said when zeroed at 200 I need to come up .300. Scroll down the ballistics and it says I should be 1.5 inches low. Now what happens when I go to shoot at say 600yds. I dial up said amount. Will I be way high because I did not zero according to my Kestrel. Or will I be just fine. I am a little confused by this or have I missed some ting along the way. To be clear I put in all needed info. Put in zero 200yds.. then transfered it to the Kestrel. My bullets are striking right under the center line in the bulls eye. I mean lerally rubbing it. The group measured .675 center to center.. I was using it with my bipod and a roll of paper towel for the rear support. So any thoughts guys and what would you do.
you need to adjust your zero range most likely. I usually zero at 100 yards. depending on caliber between .75" to 1.5" high and always center or left of center for spin dift at long ranges. Your Kestrel can be trued/trained at distance, the longer the better so the trajectory is dead nuts.
 
I basically run one rifle 98%.200 zero, then its .7,1.4,2.2,3mil ... and so on.I run zero stops also but set up so I can drop below a few tenths of mil if I'm stalking in the brush.I saw a bull at 800+ tried to set up then lost track of him in chute.Hiked up thick timber30-50 yard vis, when I got in the larch timber.This he was at elevation, saw some blonde, hammered him with a 300 at under 50 yrds. I almost had him at 840yrd,but brush was in way of my shot and by the time I cleared it he moved into thick stuff He was on far ridge to right of tall tree,3/4 to top
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you guys who are so worried about shooting over something under 200yds when zeroed at 200. should really find a better long range rifle than your 30-30 or 38-55. not many big game animals only have a 3 inch vital zone. Plus when in thick cover having to much magnification at the bottom end of your scope is a much bigger problem. Also in close your bullet will likely be below your line of sight when it strikes. What about that 2 inches.
 
Well you also have to take into account the wobble factor.
Never having seen a Kestral, im not sure they calculate for that.
But even if they do, i suppose the odds of wobbleing a shot in would be pretty much the same as wobbleing one out.
And that ( might ) mean that it dont matter much what the zero is. lol
 
I zeroed my 338 RUM on saturday for 200yds. Later I got looking at my Kestrel and it said when zeroed at 200 I need to come up .300. Scroll down the ballistics and it says I should be 1.5 inches low. Now what happens when I go to shoot at say 600yds. I dial up said amount. Will I be way high because I did not zero according to my Kestrel. Or will I be just fine. I am a little confused by this or have I missed some ting along the way. To be clear I put in all needed info. Put in zero 200yds.. then transfered it to the Kestrel. My bullets are striking right under the center line in the bulls eye. I mean lerally rubbing it. The group measured .675 center to center.. I was using it with my bipod and a roll of paper towel for the rear support. So any thoughts guys and what would you do.

Set your wind speed to 0, see if it goes away. If it does what you are looking at is Aerodynamic Jump.
 
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