Question about pulled bullets

ShootnMathews

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Here is the situation. While load working my 6.5-284 I found a load that was shoot 1/4 MOA so I loaded up 20 for hunting season. A few days later I noticed that I didn't get enough shoulder bump on the brass and after adjusting the die better the load went from 1/4 MOA to just a ragged hole. So then I loaded a box of those for season.

My question is, if I use a kinetic hammer to knock the bullets out of the 1/4 MOA loads, and size the brass correctly, will the bullets I knocked out shoot the same as the ragged hole loads or does loading them and knocking them out change the bullet any? I'm thinking of knocking g them out and then loading them right back after correcting the brass, but if you think they won't shoot the same I will leave them a lone. Most of the box shoots 1/4 MOA but because the shoulder did not get enough bump on that bunch of brass, sometimes one will chamber tighter and I'll get a flyer at 500-600. The flyer is usually 6" or less off of target so I can always use those for banging steel but I am low on bullets and it would be nice to salvage them into good loads if possible.

Just looking for opinions here, if any of you have done this and had good results with the bullets having the exact same POI as once loaded bullets
 
If you have enough brass to not need the ones that need reworking, I would leave them alone and use them for fowling shots or banging steel. Pulling bullets with an inertia puller can be a PITA and quite frankly I have never had the same confidence in ammo that has been modified - but that's just me.
 
Here is the situation. While load working my 6.5-284 I found a load that was shoot 1/4 MOA so I loaded up 20 for hunting season. A few days later I noticed that I didn't get enough shoulder bump on the brass and after adjusting the die better the load went from 1/4 MOA to just a ragged hole. So then I loaded a box of those for season.

My question is, if I use a kinetic hammer to knock the bullets out of the 1/4 MOA loads, and size the brass correctly, will the bullets I knocked out shoot the same as the ragged hole loads or does loading them and knocking them out change the bullet any? I'm thinking of knocking g them out and then loading them right back after correcting the brass, but if you think they won't shoot the same I will leave them a lone. Most of the box shoots 1/4 MOA but because the shoulder did not get enough bump on that bunch of brass, sometimes one will chamber tighter and I'll get a flyer at 500-600. The flyer is usually 6" or less off of target so I can always use those for banging steel but I am low on bullets and it would be nice to salvage them into good loads if possible.

Just looking for opinions here, if any of you have done this and had good results with the bullets having the exact same POI as once loaded bullets

I'd opt for the RCBS collet bullet puller.. I've used one many times on match remakes and had no problems at all. Some times the kinetic hammer will damage/deform the tips of hunting bullets.
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFLn-QIlom8]RCBS Collet Bullet Puller Die - YouTube[/ame]
Good luck
436
 
I have padded the end of the hammers catch area so it doesn't damage the tip any. If you do it with match ammo the I think these would be ok then. What do you think?

Brass isn't the problem. Have plenty of brass. I'm running out of bullets and they are not in stock anywhere.
 
I have padded the end of the hammers catch area so it doesn't damage the tip any. If you do it with match ammo the I think these would be ok then. What do you think?

Brass isn't the problem. Have plenty of brass. I'm running out of bullets and they are not in stock anywhere.


If you don't think your going to do any damage to the bullet(s) use the hammer and call it good.
But when it comes to pulling bullet(s) the RCBS does a better job, and it's faster
Good luck
436
 
Great. Thanks for the input guys. Ill knock them out and reload them. Now I'm sure ill have enough for season. Plan on doing lots of killing :)

One day I'll buy a puller for my press but right now I just have to make do with the hammer. I've never had any trouble pulling reloaded bullets with it. A few gentle whacks and they fall out. Factory ammo is much harder. Not sure why.
 
Just a thought:

I've had to resize 2 different rounds after they were loaded. One was 38-55s where the neck diameter had to be reduced after loading to fit the camber (cast bullets, and another where I had 308 rounds that wouldn't chamber easily because, like you, I hadn't moved the shoulder back sufficiently.

Both times, the rounds were successfully resized without disassembling the ammo.
 
Just a thought:

I've had to resize 2 different rounds after they were loaded. One was 38-55s where the neck diameter had to be reduced after loading to fit the camber (cast bullets, and another where I had 308 rounds that wouldn't chamber easily because, like you, I hadn't moved the shoulder back sufficiently.

Both times, the rounds were successfully resized without disassembling the ammo.

I can see how that would work with a body die but I don't see how with a FL die. I would think a FL die would alter the bullet profile. If I had a FL bushing die I would just pop the bushing out. But. All I have to bump shoulders with is a redding FL die
 
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