Proper ammo for Break in?

340Wby-4-everything

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I won a Browning x-bolt .300 WM and it has the right twist for long heavy bullets 1-8 What I am wondering is does it really hurt anything to break it in with some ammo my dad gave me? ie. 150gr, 180gr Rem, Federal, Hornady and some other stuff before sighting it in with Fed Match 190 - 200gr rounds? Same question regarding a new .308 HB I have broken in other rifles with basically what I planned to shoot in them, but was curious about this approach as I thought it might be a good use for this free ammo/brass. Thanks in advance for any help or experienced opinions.
 
Shoot what you got- the only thing better than cheap, is free!!!

If you are planning to reload the cases you fired, it serves to break in and fireform.

I usually try to breakin/fireform with what I am going to load for it. First 8-10 shots or so gets me a started on pressure test/break in/zero scope. That is about it for the first session as shooting/cleaning/shooting/cleaning gets old fast.
 
Shoot what you got- the only thing better than cheap, is free!!!

If you are planning to reload the cases you fired, it serves to break in and fireform.

I usually try to breakin/fireform with what I am going to load for it. First 8-10 shots or so gets me a started on pressure test/break in/zero scope. That is about it for the first session as shooting/cleaning/shooting/cleaning gets old fast.


Many thanks. I kind of figured as long as it wasn't some metal case or just junk ammo, that it would probably be ok.
 
Truthfully, I would imagine that any factory load of 150 gr. and up made by any of the large ammo makers would provide adequate accuracy for deer in your rifle. Finding the most accurate is a matter of testing, but remember -- a rifle that groups 2" at 100 yards will work just fine for deer out to 300.
 
Truthfully, I would imagine that any factory load of 150 gr. and up made by any of the large ammo makers would provide adequate accuracy for deer in your rifle. Finding the most accurate is a matter of testing, but remember -- a rifle that groups 2" at 100 yards will work just fine for deer out to 300.


Thanks. Once broken in and with top grade ammo I expect this Browning to group sub-moa at 600-1000 from what I have heard and read about them (best thing is the rifle cost me $40 - RMEF raffle). I have only shot to 600 thus far (my self imposed max limit for hunting - too much can happen after that due to flight time and imho really past 400-500 it is no longer hunting, just shooting and disrespectful to the animal) and I have a custom .340wby and a Rem 700 Mtn rifle in 264WM that both shoot well below moa at 600 w premium factory ammo. Probably won't hunt with this new rifle. Elk and Deer here in CO with the .340, Antelope with the .264 and Whitetails in VA mostly with a .308 and occasionally a .300Wby for field and clear cut hunting.
 
Sight it in with your free ammo and then plink away while you break in. Adjust with handloads later.
 
For break in I recommend any reasonable velocity load using jacketed bullets. (No copper or lead) Accuracy is not the purpose because you are tying to condition the barrel for better cleaning, less fouling and better accuracy.

Just avoid full house loads. most factory are below Maximum and do a good job. If I load new brass, I load it in the middle velocity and pressure range to get a good fire form and a good brake in.

J E CUSTOM
 
Don't bother just wasting time and money in most cases, is there a barrel once in while that exhibits slightly different characteristics maybe but I bet I couldn't tell and 99% of the population at large couldn't either. I think barrel break in was invented by barrel manufacturers or ammo companies or both. Now I'm not saying it isn't as good as an excuse as any to go shooting.
 
Don't bother just wasting time and money in most cases, is there a barrel once in while that exhibits slightly different characteristics maybe but I bet I couldn't tell and 99% of the population at large couldn't either. I think barrel break in was invented by barrel manufacturers or ammo companies or both.

if its a low end starter hunting rifle that lapping wasnt in the budget and the user only shoots/cleans once a year.. i might agree that its not really worth the time to care

even the crowd that do not break in barrels can still find a point where all the imperfections are filled with copper, and that barrel might very well shoot extremely good at that point , until it starts dragging all of the copper out of the muzzle .. it may seem to them that, their rifle shot well without a break in . but for how many shots and for how many less shots than someone that did a careful breaking process , thats the question
 
if its a low end starter hunting rifle that lapping wasnt in the budget and the user only shoots/cleans once a year.. i might agree that its not really worth the time to care

even the crowd that do not break in barrels can still find a point where all the imperfections are filled with copper, and that barrel might very well shoot extremely good at that point , until it starts dragging all of the copper out of the muzzle .. it may seem to them that, their rifle shot well without a break in . but for how many shots and for how many less shots than someone that did a careful breaking process , thats the question
Thanks. Agreed. Oh, I indeed plan to do the break-in process as directed by Browning. Shoot 1, clean for 10shots; shoot 2, clean for next 10shots. Same thing Dan Lilja told me to do many yrs back for my custom .340 Wby and here 21yrs later, it still shoots sub moa with me behind it and I am sure a real shooter, could punch one jagged little hole with it. I was just curious if using 150/180 grain Rem factory ammo for breakin might cause me issues if I am planning to shoot 190-220gr ammo after that depending on what it likes. Seems the consensus is using the Rem ammo would not be an issue. Being cheaper grade then the Nosler and Federal I plan to use, might be a better way to break-in than using the higher grade.
 
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