I ran into this video this morning and it potentially seems like a good idea. I've been reloading for 10 years now and have never seen this. For anyone that has done it, at what point do you then start retiring brass? After one repair cycle? Two? Do you start cutting cases in half at some point and looking for incipient case head separations?
Primer Pocket Repair
- Thread starter Chase723
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cohunt
Well-Known Member
Oh, here we go again. Grab the popcorn fenix!
You are going to get heated debate comments on this subject.
Some swear this works, others swear it's a horrible idea. Use your own judgment I guess, but im not a fan of "fixing" loose primer pockets
You are going to get heated debate comments on this subject.
Some swear this works, others swear it's a horrible idea. Use your own judgment I guess, but im not a fan of "fixing" loose primer pockets
cohunt
Well-Known Member
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Thank you. Totally understand all of that. I just know people have tried it and am soliciting those experiences. Sometimes theory is spot on and sometimes it just creates a unjustified fear/concern that doesn't manifest in reality. The expansion of the case web your drawings (pretty good BTW!) illustrate could also theoretically be prevented by a "sleeve" over the case...might be unnecessary however that's ultimately the point of this thread. Appreciate your contributions.
Yes, I've used the method on a number of different cartridges. It restores loosened primer pockets and allows continued use of cases that would otherwise risk gas leakage and damage to bolt faces.
I've used it on .223 Rem, 280 Improved, 7mmRM, 300WM, 30 Sherman Magnum, and 338 Edge. Nary a problem. I still have my eyelids, eyebrows, eyesight, digits and rifle receivers, all intact. The moon is still up there, and the sun continues to rise on the eastern horizon. The difference is I reload my cases for additional firings after snugging up the primer pockets, instead of retiring them to the landfill while they still have potential.
Each different caliber case requires a different diameter bolt. I welded my hardened ball bearing to a small piece of 1/2" thick steel plate, so the ball bearing isn't constantly shooting off across the garage floor. I have two different size ball bearings. One is 3/4" diameter, and one is 1" diameter. I show a pic of my ball bearing setup in the thread started by tbrice23. The larger the diameter of ball bearing, the greater the swagging down extends down the walls of the primer pocket from the case head. I use both size ball bearings, depending on large or small primer pockets being tightened up. I would not recommend the smaller 5/8" ball bearing.
I outside neck turn all of my cartridge cases. Many are wildcats and improved cartridges that require fire forming. Means I've got a lot of case prep time into them, so increased value to getting additional firings from them.
If I overtighten a primer pocket, no worries..., I can open them to perfect size with my K&M primer pocket uniforming cutter tools.
I have nothing negative to say about using the method. It doesn't cost much to do it. I use a bigger hammer than shown in the video you posted, and strike the grade 8 bolts harder than illustrated in that video. But it would be good to start like that video shows, until you gain some experience.
I've used calipers to measure the inside diameter of the primer pockets. When I get down to 0.2075 to 0.208" on large pockets, I call it good.
Could review my posts in the tbrice23 Thread for additional tips of the trade. My advice... fear not the boogeyman. Give it a try if you feel so inclined.
That looks like it would work in a situation where replacement brass is not available, however I myself, would prefer buying better brass and not over pressurizing it during the reloading process. We all know brass is not going to last forever but there are steps we can take to make it last longer. Chase 723, thank you for posting this, just another tool in the toolbox in case one ever should be in a situation where it could be helpful.
So far only once. I think it could be done again, but would require harder hammer strikes, as this process works the brass and should be expected to make the primer pocket tougher where it's been swaged down, than it was when factory new.
One limiting factor is when the face of the primer pocket has been beveled down so deeply that you're no longer comfortable re-using the casing. This causes loss of sidewall contact. But a tightened up primer pocket should be good for 3 more uses, unless you're running such high pressures that the pockets open prematurely.
There's also a point of no return with expanded primer pockets. If high pressure has blown a large pocket to, say, 0.212" or larger, probably best to retire that casing. But a good process for large primer pockets expanded out into the 0.209" to .2105" range.
I don't take salvaging casings to an extreme. Some should just be thrown away, IMO.
One limiting factor is when the face of the primer pocket has been beveled down so deeply that you're no longer comfortable re-using the casing. This causes loss of sidewall contact. But a tightened up primer pocket should be good for 3 more uses, unless you're running such high pressures that the pockets open prematurely.
There's also a point of no return with expanded primer pockets. If high pressure has blown a large pocket to, say, 0.212" or larger, probably best to retire that casing. But a good process for large primer pockets expanded out into the 0.209" to .2105" range.
I don't take salvaging casings to an extreme. Some should just be thrown away, IMO.
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ultraedge
Well-Known Member
I have a die and punch setup in a press that does the same thing. I have some Remington .338 EDGE brass with 24 firings and still going.
I have those also, and have tried them for both small and large primer pockets.
I like the hammer, bolt, and ball bearing method better.
