Primer pocket/flash hole prep.

FiremanBill

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Nov 28, 2015
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Front Royal, Va
Hey guys, im new to the site and reloading. I am really enjoying the site so far. I have deprimed and resized 20 .223 cases and need to clean the pocket and flash hole. I have the Lyman case prep multi tool, the one with several attatchments. I have lightly champhered the case neck inside and out but was just wondering about the pocket and flash houl. Oh also these Perfecta cases ive noticed the flash holes are not centered in most..........
 
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When I prep my "good" brass, I will do everything you are doing and I will uniform the primer pocket.

I think the prep tool you are using is capable of doing this step. I am not sure.

I do not spend the time uniforming brass that I know will be beat up or most likely lost.
 
If you're loading those 223 rounds for an AR, I wholeheartedly recommend this brass catcher:

Amazon.com : Caldwell Pic Rail Brass Catcher : Hunting And Shooting Equipment : Sports & Outdoors

I have one and it works fantastic. Some of my friends have other makes/models and theirs do not work as nice.


I have a case prep center also. Saves a ton of time. It's nice that the attachments for all of the tools are the same thread patterns. Doesn't matter if it's Lyman, Lee, Hornady, etc. Even the hand tools have the same thread pattern. I've taken all of my hand tools apart and just use the parts in my case prep center now.

A couple of the attachments I do have are for Flash Hole Deburring and Primer Pocket Uniforming. After doing probably close to 1000 different brass now of different manufacturers, I can say that absolutely; Yes many flash holes have burrs in them and Yes the primer pockets are sometimes uneven. I have yet to prove to myself that either affects accuracy in a meaningful way however. I'm not saying they don't... I'm just saying I haven't been able to prove it to myself yet.

At the end of the day I have come to believe that these 3 things make 90% of the difference:
1 - Proper powder charge weight tested for accuracy in your specific rifle.
2 - Bullet that your rifle likes to shoot.
3 - Bullet seating depth.

The 1,000 other things you can do to try to reload more accurately make up that last 10%.
 
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Once I went to wet media tumbling with stainless pins, I eliminated the primer pocket, flash hole scenario completely. Only time I fiddle with pockets is if I buy a lot of Mil brass with crimped in primers and then I remove the crimp. Thas it.
 
I have proved to myself that deburring the inside of the case flash hole DOES increase accuracy. If you are looking for best accuracy ditch the cases with the misaligned flash holes. If you are just doing blasting ammo for an AR don't waste your time.
 
Thanks a bunch guys. I think I might need to get the Dillon primer pocket uniformer at some point for the 5.56 crimped brass. Boy you can just keep on spending on different tools can't you. Thanks again....
 
Thanks a bunch guys. I think I might need to get the Dillon primer pocket uniformer at some point for the 5.56 crimped brass. Boy you can just keep on spending on different tools can't you. Thanks again....

The RCBS unit is a mirror image of the Dillon and cheaper and cheaper yet is a 60 degree chatterless 4 flute countersink chucked in your drill motor.
 
Hey guys, im new to the site and reloading. I am really enjoying the site so far. I have deprimed and resized 20 .223 cases and need to clean the pocket and flash hole. I have the Lyman case prep multi tool, the one with several attatchments. I have lightly champhered the case neck inside and out but was just wondering about the pocket and flash houl. Oh also these Perfecta cases ive noticed the flash holes are not centered in most..........
You did not mention anything about trimming the case to make sure it is not too long. Bottleneck cartridges usually stretch the most on the first firing.
If you have any way to measure the case length, make sure they are not too long.
 
You did not mention anything about trimming the case to make sure it is not too long. Bottleneck cartridges usually stretch the most on the first firing.
If you have any way to measure the case length, make sure they are not too long.

Thats because that first firing causes the brass to flow and assume that particular chambers dimensions. That is physics.

If you are loading previously fired brass that was fired in another chamber (not yours), expect case length to increase. One reason I keep my brass segregated, each rifle gets reloaded with the same brass and why I never use an expander ball on a die stem. Expander balls are fine for first size, after that, not needed.

The pill, exiting the case expands the neck and while it relaxes( the cartridge and case expand and contract or you would not be able to extract it), the neck is expanded enough that when you resize, you will contract it enough to secure the bullet... and that holds true with bushing and non-bushing dies.

Why work it twice and working the neck causes it to grow' as well, and workharden, shortening the brass life.

On new brass, I never trim, no need. OFB, always.
 
Once I went to wet media tumbling with stainless pins, I eliminated the primer pocket, flash hole scenario completely. Only time I fiddle with pockets is if I buy a lot of Mil brass with crimped in primers and then I remove the crimp. Thas it.

I think your method is my next move. How long of a life do the stainless steel pins have Skip?
gary
 
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