HRM Johnny
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+p 300 weatherby mag
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J E Custom
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I totally agree
Weatherby's have extra freebore in order to get more velocity, and if you lessen the freebore with a special reamer, you will not be able to fire factory Weatherby ammo in it, so if you make any changes in the amount of freebore, always add more freebore.
When I wildcat Weatherby's, I add more freebore for certain bullets to hold pressure to safe limits and increase velocity. If the smithing is done right, 1/2 MOA accuracy is common. To date my most accurate Weatherbys will shoot 1/4 MOA or better. With the best (I have been able to shoot) .092 5 shot group with a 30/378.
The question of +p loadings normally means loads that are faster than SAMMI max loads, but unless changes are made to the chamber specs. all that is normally all that is achieved is more pressure. But with proper dimensional changes to the chamber, more velocity can be achieved without increasing the pressure.
If I don't feel that I need or can increase velocity by 100 ft/sec + without excessive pressure or loss of accuracy, I decide not to change a perfectly good cartridge. There are many changes that need to be made to achieve more velocity without any disadvantages. So unless a person understands the effects of each change, Don't do it.
Just some advice from an old wildcatter.
J E CUSTOM
I have never found a 300 Weatherby to have Brutal recoil. That includes the lightweight Vanguard's of which I bought Three for my son's. Mind you I don't find the 460 Mark V brutal either. My question is why you would choose a caliber that is Brutal to shoot 1000 yards....takes alot of practice to be consistent for most shooters past 500. Why don't you re barrel with a lighter less expensive caliber to shoot? Something in the 26-28 cal? Just me
undecided
Member
Yes I think the recoil is heavy I don't believe it's as heave as the 458 Lott that I have shot. That being said I don't freel that it has effected my accuracy either. I was hitting 500 yards pretty consistent with it with factory 160 gr. I was shooting a steel plate and I'm not sure what the size was not very big I know that much. I would just like to try and soften it up some of at all possible. This the idea for a break of any one has any good breaks they would recommend that would be appreciated. Was looking at the terminator t4. But don't know much about what breaks are decent and what are garbage. And I didn't choose the caliber it was handed down to me by my grand father who never really shot it. I'm just running with what I have.
pig ranch deadeye
Well-Known Member
Whïch wording is correct? Muzzle Brake or Muzzle Break?
Wedgy
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Brake as in the brakes on your car,
pig ranch deadeye
Well-Known Member
That is what I say, but half the people say "break," which seems to be wrong to me.
pig ranch deadeye
Well-Known Member
Ycan grab a stick of celery and break it in your two hands. You don't do that with a gun barrel. On the other hand, you can limit the retrocession of the gun after the shot. In other words, brake its rearward progress.
Ricky C
Well-Known Member
Hey, I've been shooting a 300 Wby for about 30 years and while I don't consider the recoil to be "brutal", when I touch off a shot with it you certainly know about it! I just recently put a brake on it, I put an APA gen 3 on it. I have so far opened up the first two sets of UDP ports closest to the muzzle. I'm able to see the dirt kick up behind the target at 100 yds thru the scope. I shoot all my guns way more at the range testing new stuff, once shot the 300 more than 30 times off the bench over an afternoon long ago. Shoulder was a little tender and purple! So I figured the brake was a good idea, took a while to figure out since it didn't really brother me much. But I have realized that over the last few years I have basically checked the zero on the gun, which is usually just one shot and then went hunting. The 300 now has less kick than my 7-08.
Over the years I have owned, shot and hunted with 7 different 300 WEA's. I re-barreled two of those rifles to tweak the leade length. What I proved to myself is that is that decreasing leade length, and firing factory ammo can lead to excessive pressure. However, as most of us handload, this is not a problem, and a greater level of accuracy can be achieved using conventional bullets. With the longer (factory leade) leade lengths, I have found that accuracy can suffer a bit unless you are using mono style bullets. My current favorite 300 is a Weatherby Vanguard SS 2. Pillar and bedded using Brownell's Steel Bed, and topped with Leupold V-X 6 scope, this rifle will shot consistently into .5 using a load that consists of Norma brass, Federal 215 primers, and Reloader 23 with 168 gr. Barnes TTSX bullets. These bullets are seated .225 off the lands. Velocity is in the 3350 range, and has proven to be a very reliable killer of elk, deer, and bear. (plus one wolf). What does all this mean? While I like to tinker with improving cartridge performance as much as anyone, please keep in mind the 300 WEA is nothing more than an improved 300 H.H.. I don't really think that whole lot more can be gained in the 30 bore without being grossly overbore. This grand old round has never failed me just the way it is.
Just a question not being a wise *** but why don't you just seat out your bullet a little bit further
25WSM
Well-Known Member
The freebore is so long on most wbys that the magazine box limits how long you can seat out. Sure you can single feed and make your coal longer but not ideal for a pure hunting rifle.
Shep
Shep
