Optilock Rings

sitkamag

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Joined
Feb 28, 2015
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So I just ordered a Vortex Viper HS LR 4-16x50 FFP and I need to mount it on my Sako Finnlight in 300WM. I think I want to go with the Optilock Ringmounts (single piece) but are there any benefits to the 2-peice Optilocks or the Talley's? Also, does anybody have experience with the clearance with the Optilocks on a 50mm objective? What are the lowest rings I can go with? I would go somewhere and figure it out myself but those Sako mounts are not easy to come across.
 
So I just ordered a Vortex Viper HS LR 4-16x50 FFP and I need to mount it on my Sako Finnlight in 300WM. I think I want to go with the Optilock Ringmounts (single piece) but are there any benefits to the 2-peice Optilocks or the Talley's? Also, does anybody have experience with the clearance with the Optilocks on a 50mm objective? What are the lowest rings I can go with? I would go somewhere and figure it out myself but those Sako mounts are not easy to come across.

I have the 2 piece optilock on 2 rifles and they are a solid mount. I don't care for the plastic inserts in the rings. One is a stainless synthetic similar to finnlight. I have problems getting that to shoot near as well as the hunter version I have. Both easily shoot moa though I expect more from Sako.

Check out Near manufacturing Richard makes a rail for the Sako 85 its pricey but worth it IMO.

Near Manufacturing - Rifle Scope Bases

Good luck and shoot straight

Bob
 
I've got the two-piece opti-locks on one of my rifles, however have made them permanently one-piece now... I had problems with the screw that threads up into the ring from the bottom of the base (on my front ring) Recoil over-time (from my firebird 7mm) stripped that screw & it would loosen and lose zero.

Since then, I did put one of Richards rails onto the firebird and use a completely different set-up on-it.. BUT

Regarding the (now permanent) opti-lock set... I basically took that set that had the screwed up threads due to recoil and torqued them together using JB-weld on the threads themselves as a locker, as well as inside/inbetween the recess the ring mates up with the base... I did the front & back ring/base both

I figured they were damaged anyway, and I have another rifle I can "try" this "fix" on, so I'm doing so.. and so far so good. They're solid. All that said though, I ONLY did it to make use of what I already had.. So save yourself the hassle and get one-piece opti-locks right off the get-go (or) splurge and go with one of Richards rails-- he keeps a few in-stock always, and is an awesome guy to deal with.

Biggest plus with a rail, you're options for rings & scope-tube sizes is unlimited*
 
What would be the benefit of the rail system vs. the one-piece optilock ringmounts? Are the optilocks a sub-par mounting system?
 
What would be the benefit of the rail system vs. the one-piece optilock ringmounts? Are the optilocks a sub-par mounting system?

Welcome to LRH and enjoy! The SAKO optilock rings and mount are SOLID. I have them on my SAKOM995 in .300 Win Mag.

The advantage of a rail mounting system is that it gives you more flexibility in rings, forward/rear adjustments, and scope canting (should you need additional elevation).
 
What would be the benefit of the rail system vs. the one-piece optilock ringmounts? Are the optilocks a sub-par mounting system?

I would not consider them sub par. I just don't care for the plastic interface between the ring and scope. The one piece will mount on a rail but they still have the plastic interface. My problem specifically is it just seems like the plastic would have more movement potential than other high quality mounting systems.

The rail mounts are much more adaptable especially if you you want to mount levels etc for Long range you can purchase them canted and you will gain more vertical scope adjustment with the Vortex Viper.

I would think a 20moa rail and nightforce ultralight rings would be a great set up on your 300 win mag. That's what I have on my 300 win mag accumark. Your scope has a listed 75 MOA of vertical adjustment or 37 up and 37 down. 37 moa will get you to 1000+ with the finn light and a 24.5"bbl with 1in11 twist that's way out there. A 20moa rail will get you 57 vertical probably near a mile.

If you like the sako mounts call or e-mail eurooptic at Nightforce, Sako, Schmidt Bender, Benelli, Swarovski, Zeiss they will set you up good.

Good luck and shoot straight

Bob
 
So I thought I had decided on going with the simplest route by using the single piece ringmounts. Unfortunately, they have been elusive little critters. I finally called eurooptic.com and the guy on the phone told me that they don't make the ringmounts tall enough to fit a 50mm objective. Can anybody support/refute that information?
 
So I thought I had decided on going with the simplest route by using the single piece ringmounts. Unfortunately, they have been elusive little critters. I finally called eurooptic.com and the guy on the phone told me that they don't make the ringmounts tall enough to fit a 50mm objective. Can anybody support/refute that information?

I have difficulty believing Sako doesn't make a mount for what you want to do. What scope are you trying to mount I have 50mm objectives on 2 Sako 85's both have 1" tubes. Check the attached site to confirm. Is Europtic talking about the 1 piece or 2 piece mounts?

http://cdn.sako.fi/sites/default/files/Optilockring.pdf

Good luck and shoot straight

Bob
 
The problem is that Sako doesn't list the specs for the Ringmounts which are the single piece mounts that don't need bases. If you look at the photo in the link you added, it depicts the two piece mounts and that same document is listed under the one piece and two piece mounts on their page. I'm mounting a Vortex Viper PST 4-16x50 with a 30mm tube.
 
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