Nighthawk
Well-Known Member
Does anyone know where I can get an Oehler 35P Chronograph and for how much?
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Oehler 35P Chony
- Thread starter Nighthawk
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Nighthawk
Well-Known Member
Anyone out there?
Brent
Well-Known Member
NH,
No one really sells them cheaper than you can get them directly from Oehler.
Was going to add, if a used one is what you're looking for... good luck. Sometimes they can be found, just not too often.
You can start out with a 35 and upgrade later to save some cash, I'd still use a 4' rail though. About $225 if I remember right.
Good luck
[ 09-05-2003: Message edited by: Brent ]
No one really sells them cheaper than you can get them directly from Oehler.
Was going to add, if a used one is what you're looking for... good luck. Sometimes they can be found, just not too often.
You can start out with a 35 and upgrade later to save some cash, I'd still use a 4' rail though. About $225 if I remember right.
Good luck
[ 09-05-2003: Message edited by: Brent ]
Nighthawk
Well-Known Member
Brent, what do you mean by a 4" rail? Personally I don't really like used anything so it will be a new one. Thank You How is it way up north where you are, and what are you doing up so late
? Too me it would seam like the perfect place to live.
Ian M
Well-Known Member
Brent is right, you are best to order direct from Oehler - they are super people. The 4 foot rail is a piece of aluminum conduit that holds the skyscreens apart, comes with the machine. I would suggest buying the little tripods from them too, they have the best price for those holders and you need something to hold the screens in place.
The Oehler can be set for any skyscreen spacing, I believe the farther apart the screens are the more accurate your readings.
I would suggest buying the 35P, then you get the printer and permanent records of each shot and the data collection. If you order a 35P buy some spares, including skyscreen bodies and diffuser parts since those things get shotup. They are very cheap, I always keep a complete skyscreen in my kit since you never know when you will wreck one. The skyscreens are very easy to rebuild, they last forever.
Brent suggested the 35, it is a fine chronograph, simply does not have the built in printer. If money is an issue the 35 is fine, but the 35P is by far his best selling model.
You will not regret buying an Oehler, they last "forever" and if there is a problem they are the best people you could deal with for service.
My Oehlers look like they have been dragged behind a truck but they just keep on working. I shoot too many muzzleloader loads through them, the sabots beat the heck out ot the diffusers but I just crazy-glue them back together.
There is some good info in the archives on Oehlers.
The Oehler can be set for any skyscreen spacing, I believe the farther apart the screens are the more accurate your readings.
I would suggest buying the 35P, then you get the printer and permanent records of each shot and the data collection. If you order a 35P buy some spares, including skyscreen bodies and diffuser parts since those things get shotup. They are very cheap, I always keep a complete skyscreen in my kit since you never know when you will wreck one. The skyscreens are very easy to rebuild, they last forever.
Brent suggested the 35, it is a fine chronograph, simply does not have the built in printer. If money is an issue the 35 is fine, but the 35P is by far his best selling model.
You will not regret buying an Oehler, they last "forever" and if there is a problem they are the best people you could deal with for service.
My Oehlers look like they have been dragged behind a truck but they just keep on working. I shoot too many muzzleloader loads through them, the sabots beat the heck out ot the diffusers but I just crazy-glue them back together.
There is some good info in the archives on Oehlers.
Ian M
Well-Known Member
Brent is right, you are best to order direct from Oehler - they are super people. The 4 foot rail is a piece of aluminum conduit that holds the skyscreens apart, comes with the machine. I would suggest buying the little tripods from them too, they have the best price for those holders and you need something to hold the screens in place.
The Oehler can be set for any skyscreen spacing, I believe the farther apart the screens are the more accurate your readings.
I would suggest buying the 35P, then you get the printer and permanent records of each shot and the data collection. If you order a 35P buy some spares, including skyscreen bodies and diffuser parts since those things get shotup. They are very cheap, I always keep a complete skyscreen in my kit since you never know when you will wreck one. The skyscreens are very easy to rebuild, they last forever.
Brent suggested the 35, it is a fine chronograph, simply does not have the built in printer. If money is an issue the 35 is fine, but the 35P is by far his best selling model.
You will not regret buying an Oehler, they last "forever" and if there is a problem they are the best people you could deal with for service.
My Oehlers look like they have been dragged behind a truck but they just keep on working. I shoot too many muzzleloader loads through them, the sabots beat the heck out ot the diffusers but I just crazy-glue them back together.
There is some good info in the archives on Oehlers.
The Oehler can be set for any skyscreen spacing, I believe the farther apart the screens are the more accurate your readings.
I would suggest buying the 35P, then you get the printer and permanent records of each shot and the data collection. If you order a 35P buy some spares, including skyscreen bodies and diffuser parts since those things get shotup. They are very cheap, I always keep a complete skyscreen in my kit since you never know when you will wreck one. The skyscreens are very easy to rebuild, they last forever.
Brent suggested the 35, it is a fine chronograph, simply does not have the built in printer. If money is an issue the 35 is fine, but the 35P is by far his best selling model.
You will not regret buying an Oehler, they last "forever" and if there is a problem they are the best people you could deal with for service.
My Oehlers look like they have been dragged behind a truck but they just keep on working. I shoot too many muzzleloader loads through them, the sabots beat the heck out ot the diffusers but I just crazy-glue them back together.
There is some good info in the archives on Oehlers.
Ian M
Well-Known Member
I checked the Oehler site and they send a two foot piece of conduit with each machine, the four foot is optional. Here is a link: http://www.oehler-research.com/cgi-local/SoftCart.15.exe/online-store/scstore/p-35P.html?L+scstore+dxhx7067ff5a055a+1076702455
Ian M
Well-Known Member
I checked the Oehler site and they send a two foot piece of conduit with each machine, the four foot is optional. Here is a link: http://www.oehler-research.com/cgi-local/SoftCart.15.exe/online-store/scstore/p-35P.html?L+scstore+dxhx7067ff5a055a+1076702455
Brent
Well-Known Member
I'll second what Ian said, their stands and also the printer version are the best way to go.
Here's something i do to get the screens lined up PERFECTLY by yourself, the FIRST time:
Take a piece of WHITE cardboard, don't have to be very big, just big enough that you can cut a slot in it wide enough to slip over the stock above the grip or butt while gripping it so it stands up vertically behind the scopes occular lense and you can see white through it when out at the screens adjusting them.
Set the power ring on the scope to max power (though this won't make any difference if the crosshair is in the first focal plane) and line up the crosshairs on the targets bullseye, now don't move the rifle.
Now, with your eyeball looking back through the scope tube from the center of each screen, line up the vertical crosshair that should now contrast very well with the white background with the center of the MUZZLE and move the screen left or right to center the bore line over each screen. I use my finger held out up above the center of each screen as a kind of sight if needed. Helps to first get the screens roughly adjusted so the bullet path will be 6-8" above end screens, do your line up then go back and get the rail as parelell to the bore line as possible, then double check alignment again. If everything is perfectly aligned looking back from the screens to the bore and crosshair, it will be perfect when you look back through the scope on low power. You may have to tip the rifle forward keeping the vertical crosshair on the bull while verifying it's in the center of the screens, just depends on how low you like to set the screens and how low of power setting you have.
Once the rifle is setup in the rest, I can have the hight and alignment of the screens set and ready in less than a minute, quite a bit faster than running back and forth looking through the scope each time an adjustment is made to a screen, which on the other hand can be quite time consuming. Not to mention other people at the range will probably be "waiting" on you, hoping to shoot... sometime this century.
Here's something i do to get the screens lined up PERFECTLY by yourself, the FIRST time:
Take a piece of WHITE cardboard, don't have to be very big, just big enough that you can cut a slot in it wide enough to slip over the stock above the grip or butt while gripping it so it stands up vertically behind the scopes occular lense and you can see white through it when out at the screens adjusting them.
Set the power ring on the scope to max power (though this won't make any difference if the crosshair is in the first focal plane) and line up the crosshairs on the targets bullseye, now don't move the rifle.
Now, with your eyeball looking back through the scope tube from the center of each screen, line up the vertical crosshair that should now contrast very well with the white background with the center of the MUZZLE and move the screen left or right to center the bore line over each screen. I use my finger held out up above the center of each screen as a kind of sight if needed. Helps to first get the screens roughly adjusted so the bullet path will be 6-8" above end screens, do your line up then go back and get the rail as parelell to the bore line as possible, then double check alignment again. If everything is perfectly aligned looking back from the screens to the bore and crosshair, it will be perfect when you look back through the scope on low power. You may have to tip the rifle forward keeping the vertical crosshair on the bull while verifying it's in the center of the screens, just depends on how low you like to set the screens and how low of power setting you have.
Once the rifle is setup in the rest, I can have the hight and alignment of the screens set and ready in less than a minute, quite a bit faster than running back and forth looking through the scope each time an adjustment is made to a screen, which on the other hand can be quite time consuming. Not to mention other people at the range will probably be "waiting" on you, hoping to shoot... sometime this century.
Ian M
Well-Known Member
Brent,
A while back I sent you a note on my newly developed method of setting up Oehler Skyscreens, did you not receive it?
If not have I got a good one for you...
A while back I sent you a note on my newly developed method of setting up Oehler Skyscreens, did you not receive it?
If not have I got a good one for you...
Nighthawk
Well-Known Member
Thank You Brent and Ian.
