I find it utterly amazing how people mount scopes....lol
Got enough rings on that scope? You only need 2, one front and one out back if, the rings are properly aligned, the bore is concentric and they are torqued and threadlocked to the ring/scope manufacturers specification.
The extra rings were/are a total waste of time and money.....
Like Ed stated, the mount is only as secure as it's weakest point. Find the weak link and improve on that. Besides a braked 338 only recoils like an unbraked 308.
Your not correct in your comments. Two rings are just fine for an unbraked rifle and most braked rifles depending on chambering but some rifles with the best muzzle brakes out there NEED two sets of scope rings. Let me explain why.
When I designed my Xtreme Heavy Sporter rifles chambered in my 338 Allen Magnum wildcat (338-408 Cheytac Improved and then some). I designed my Painkiller muzzle brake which is a very aggressive design which pretty much eliminated felt recoil.
The first of these rifles built, I took it out at 1000 yards on the first outing and it shot great. After about 30 rounds down the barrel, I started seeing vertical stringing which just got worse and worse.
Took the rifle back to the shop and looked for possible problems. Could not find anything. Pulled the scope off, pulled the rail off, all screws were tight but there were rub marks under the scope base on the receiver......
The scope base on the BAT had no physical support to the recoil and the shear force generated by the recoil was making the rail base ship which resulted in the vertical stringing. To solve this, I machined the rail and the receiver for some huge, tapered head 10-32 mounting bolts and this solved the problem of the base slipping. Later on, I found that pinning the rail base to the receiver using 4, heat treated steel pins solved the problem completely but it raised another problem.
Now that the rail base was solidly in place long term, the next weak link was exposed by the aggressive Painkiller muzzle brake. The recoil energy would push the rifle violently to the rear but when the bullet exited the muzzle brake, the extreme negative G forces generated by the muzzle brake would cause the scope rings to slip to the rear of their rail slots.
Turns out I was starting to see the same exact problem as when the rail was slipping. Shoot great for 20-30 rounds and then vertical stringing would just get worse and worse. Now these were not cheap rings, they were top quality world class rings, NF steel tactical rings, badger ord, Seekins, they all slipped no matter what was tried or how clean, or dry or what thread locker was used.
The cure, after ALOT of testing and proving. Two sets of rings. And they had to be postioned in the right position. If you number the rings from 1-4 starting at the front of the receiver and counting back. Rings 1 and 3 are positioned forward in their rail slots to offer solid support to the recoil energy of the rifle. Rings 2 and 4 are positioned to the rear of the rail slot to offer physical support to the extreme negative G-forces generated by the muzzle brake.
Tighten the rings down in this position and then mount and square the scope. Problem solved long term and that's the only solution I have found.
I have also seen problems using my smaller caliber wildcats when using the Painkiller muzzle brake. Its great that they reduce felt recoil so dramatically but they also make life hard on the optical system of a rifle so it needs to be mounted correct.
If the rifle is coated with cerakote, Teflon or pretty much any other coating, this is pretty much a must with any magnum chambering when using an aggressive muzzle brake.
So while I admit that for most applications of conventional rifles and many rifles with most muzzle brakes do not need multipul ring set ups but there are certainly situations that that REQUIRE a multi ring set up so your comments.
Yoru comments about more then two rings being a waste of time and money is laughable.
Your comments about a braked 338 recoil is the same as an unbraked 308 is also laughable. What you feel in your shoulder is NOT what the rifle and scope goes through. You need to do some research on negative G forces generated by muzzle brakes and how they effect and generally rip apart an optical system not designed and built specifically to support internal lenses against these negative G-forces.
Again, do some research and educate your self on what actually happens to a rifle and scope when a good muzzle brake is used.