Nosler Custom Brass.

[MagnumManiac]

I just found out why my handloads in this brass 'blew' primers and had ejector marks etc,with 'mid' loads that I had used previously,and yes I did work back up from start loads!
Apparently you have to use the Nosler start loads,because this brass has less capacity than other brass!

Anyone else found this? I thought it was because the brass was 'soft'.
MagnumManiac
gun)

 

[James H]

Nosler brass is not all made by one company so it isn't possible to make a blanket statement about the Nosler brass.
I haven't yet noticed the reduced capacity or softness with the Nosler brass that I have used.

James

 

[Shortmagman]

I have used Nosler Custom brass to load 22-250 and 280 Rem loads. I found that the 280 brass had less volume than either the Norma or Remington brass that I had been using. Yes, you need to start low and work up when using this brass. As far as the 22-250 brass I have not been able to detect any volume difference between it and the Remington brass that I had been using.

I like the Nosler brass because it is very uniform. I also have not shot it enough to conclude that is softer than Remington brass. I know that the Norma brass in 280 Rem is softer than Remington brass in 280. It seem that when you are comparing brass that each caliber must be taken as different. I have found that Norma brass in 270 WSM and 300 WSM is heavier and has less volume than either Winchester or Remington in these calibers. It is also much tougher and will last longer in the two shortmag calibers. It 280 Rem it is softer and has greater volume than either Remington or Nosler.

 

[linksmechanic]

Anytime you change brass you should work your load up again. I have tested the volume of nosler brass against remington and it's a little less. I would be deeply concerned if your blowing primers.

 

[LEFTYM77]

I have "heard" (I don't know this as fact but it did come from a reputable source) that nosler brass is in fact Norma brass that nosler has bought, sorted by weight, trimmed, deburred, ect. (Basically prepped for you) I have herd it is great brass and it is easy to work with because it is really soft. I just bought some lapua brass for my 243 and I dropped my charges a grain lower than what I was shooting out of the federal brass, and am going to work it back up, but have not had a chance to shoot any yet, so we will see what happens. My loads where not hot before so hopefully they will be ok

 

[kraky2]

I noticed that in 308 nosler brass is really heavy compared to win and rem. I'm guessing I'll have to reduce loads about 2-3 grains. I've read reports that it is kind of the same story with 300 rum and 300 wby brass. I have used it in 300 win mag and have not seen a big difference between nosler and and rem/win. I guess the bottom line is.... be aware that things can be different with the nosler brass.
JUst curious what the start load/vel was and when it was you started popping primers??

 

[MagnumManiac]

I noticed that in 308 nosler brass is really heavy compared to win and rem. I'm guessing I'll have to reduce loads about 2-3 grains. I've read reports that it is kind of the same story with 300 rum and 300 wby brass. I have used it in 300 win mag and have not seen a big difference between nosler and and rem/win. I guess the bottom line is.... be aware that things can be different with the nosler brass.
JUst curious what the start load/vel was and when it was you started popping primers??

The listed max load is 77gr of RE22 for 180's in 300WinMag.
I started with 5% less,which is 73gr,and blew a primer at 75gr,the previous load of 74gr showed no signs of excessive pressure.I didn't get a velocity reading with these loads.I also have a 'recoil pressure guage',but that wasn't fitted either.(I know,I know,I know!)
I have to say that this is a NEW rifle,Kimber 8400 Classic Select Grade,which apparently has a tight chamber also.There is minimum deflection in the brass,and the shoulder has only moved .002" from unfired brass.
I haven't had any problems with either Remington or Winchester brass in this rifle,that's why I'm suspecting that the Nosler brass is the culprit.
Where I read about the Nosler brass requiring that you have to use the Nosler start loads was in Petersons Rifle Shooter.
MagnumManiac
gun)

 

[royinidaho]

Hmmmmm, so there are several manufacturers of Nosler brass. That's a real bummer...

I bought 50 rounds of the stuff in 300 RUM to resize to 270 AM. The loads I put in them were not hot by any means in the Remmy cases. There was also no pressure signs with the Noslers such as extraction etc.

However, when I reloaded them the primer seating pressure was really reduces. After the next firing the pockets were more loose.

I never had to push the should back or trim but the case heads just didn't cut the mustard.

That is, was, and will be my only experience.

 

[kraky2]

Magnum---going from 74 grains with no pressure to 75 with blowing primers seems really strange. I would think it would take about 3 grains to make a swing like that. BUT, I had a "like incident" happen with my 30-378 a while back. I was working with max loads and everything seemed fine. I was really happy with velocity and no marks on the brass and all of sudden.....with the same batch of brass...same everything an ejector mark showed up....then another....then a sticky bolt. All I could figure is that the barrel had hit the max on copper and powder fowling and that bullet was really "not wanting" to go down the barrel causing excessive pressure. Velocity had gradully increased about 50 fps on those 3 extra bullets.
There are guys out there that try to say that a chrono has "no useful" purpose in load develpement....but personally I think they are so good that they should have a voice feature that says...."things are changing"....."things are really changing"...."look out ******* I warned you"! Well......maybe that would be annoying......!

 

[eddybo]

I had a bad experiance with the Nosler .308 brass when switching from win brass. I dropped a grain below sierras accuracy load of 42.7gr RL 15 with a 168 sierra and blew a primer even though it was about 2 grains lower than my win brass load. I dropped down 2 more grains and the load was still hot. If I remember right I went to 38 grains with nosler brass. It shoots great now but I am thinking it is below the sierra listed loads.

 

[kraky2]

Thanks for the warning on the 308--when I get into that batch of nosler I better start at least 3 grains lower. Just weighed virgin nosler (176 gr) against virg win (156gr). Now weight doesn't ALWAYS mean alot less case capacity but if you are a betting person you would swing to that idea. I had bought some graffs 308 brass and it was heavy and it took about 1.5 grains less to make the same velocity as win.
When looking at case capacity I used to fill them with water but I found it a bit messy so I now top them off with a ball powder and compare the wts as a percentage.

 

[Buffalobob]

Check the neck thickness. It is really way off on some of the 308 cases. If you have a Lee Neck Sizer Die you will really notice it when you start paying attention. About one in ten is really bad.

 

[kraky2]

Best way to check neck wall thickness variations??

So what is the best tool?? I'm thinking a ball micrometer?? And I'm thinking that virgin brass should be run over a mandrel and chamfered inside and out to make using the mic a bit easier?? Tell me your methods please.

 

[Buffalobob]

If you have a RCBS runout gauge you can measure neck thickness with it. If you don't have a runout gauge then that is a very good investment towards accuracy.

I haven't personally measured it, but I can feel it with the Lee die. I can also see it on paper at 800-1000yards.