Nosler 26,28,30,33 All in one gun?

LongRange325

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I've been looking into having a switch lug out on my custom 26 Nosler, I would like to make a complete Nolser kit from 26-33. Most of the people in this site are way smarter than I am so I'm looking for opinions if this will work or not? This is not something I will be doing my self I would leave it up to the gunsmith that built the gun. This gun is strictly for hunting nothing else. Thank you.
 
As far as action goes, yes, it will work. You will just need 4 different barrels that are chambered and headspaced to your action at a pre-set torque measurement. You will need to have your lug pinned to your action, and you will need a barrel vise and an action wrench, and a good torque wrench.
 
As far as action goes, yes, it will work. You will just need 4 different barrels that are chambered and headspaced to your action at a pre-set torque measurement. You will need to have your lug pinned to your action, and you will need a barrel vise and an action wrench, and a good torque wrench.
Does the switchlug not do away with the barrel/action wrench, my understanding is you just need a torque wrench, line up the pre set marks on the switchlug and the barrel then torque to spec?
 
Does the switchlug not do away with the barrel/action wrench, my understanding is you just need a torque wrench, line up the pre set marks on the switchlug and the barrel then torque to spec?
If you're talking about using that new weird switch-lug thing, I'm not really a fan of how that works. I know it sticks up above the action and you have to have your pic rail milled-off so it doesn't hit. And you have an allen-head machine screw to tighten up to keep the barrel from rotating. Seems counter-productive. Might as well just build a rifle with a Rem-Age setup.

I thought you were referring to a real switch-barrel rifle, like they've used in BR comps and varmint shoots for decades... Which is drilling and pinning the recoil lug and action to each other so they don't move, and there is no downward torque pressure on the barrel threads themselves (from the action being torqued into the stock) when you remove the barrel, the action, lug, scope, and everything stays in place, and stays attached to the stock, the only thing that gets unscrewed and swapped is the barrel. For this, you will need an action wrench, a barrel vise, and a torque wrench (or witness marks on both lug & barrel). I prefer this method for many reasons, namely it seems more secure and less things to go wrong or come loose at a critical point. Just my opinion.
 
It is so easy to swap barrels using a Savage barrel nut setup I don't know why you would mess with anything else and they shoot great (see attached pic). I can swap a barrel in about 10 minutes. You slide the scope off the bases so you have room for the barrel nut wrench, stick the barrel in a barrel vice, take the barrel off, put the new barrel in the vice, screw the barrel nut on the new barrel, install new barrel on the action loosely, then set headspace with a go gage, lock down the barrel nut, slide the scope back on the bases and it is ready for a trip to the range. And with a Savage you can change bolt faces so you don't have to stay with a common case.
 

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This could easily be done with a Bighorn arms SR3 action. It is setup like a Savage, meaning floating bolthead and a barrel nut. Buy 3 barrels and swap whichever one you want on like Engineering101 explained above. The Bighorn arms action is a Remington 700 clone so any trigger or stock that Rem 700 will take it will too. Good luck
 
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