Norma bras vs Federal Brass

Iron Worker

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300 Winmag 195gr Sierra TMK in Norma brass was 74grs of N560 with zero pressure signs. I picked up some once-fired Federal brass, which weighs 20grs more. I wonder how much I should reduce the charge with the same bullet, powder, and primer.
 
300 Winmag 195gr Sierra TMK in Norma brass was 74grs of N560 with zero pressure signs. I picked up some once-fired Federal brass, which weighs 20grs more. I wonder how much I should reduce the charge with the same bullet, powder, and primer.
I wouldn't touch that Federal brass with a Barge Pole.
Have NEVER seen it last to 3 loadings in ANY cartridge…

Cheers.
 
I agree. I used to hold Federal in high regard, however, the more I get my hands on it, the more I see its low quality. 1x fired brass from factory loadings routinely have loose primer pockets. Inconsistently loose pockets, meaning some of the batch won't hold a primer at all, while others feel ok and the rest are in the middle somewhere. Federal would not be high on my list at all. Conversely, all the norma brass I've played with seems pretty solid.
 
Any brass will do, it's a matter of how long it will last. You will have to take your proven loads, measure case capacity and then measure case capacity of the new Brass you'd like to use. Figure out the variance and that will tell you what you have to do with your powder charges. Either increase charges or decrease charges. If it's free brass, it's free.

Hornady is ok brass, not very good, but sometimes it's the only maker for certain cartridges, like my Warbird.
 
From what I've seen with hornady, its pretty decent. Seems to be pretty consistent, just thinner than competitors. I put ADG, Lapua, Peterson and Alpha in high regard. With Norma nipping at their heals. I place hornady at the top of their group with remington, winchester, ppu, nosler, etc but all a step less than the top brass brands.
 
Cry once buy good brass and don't look back. You will get better performance, eliminate brass quality variable and just shoot.

Peterson 300WM Long brass reduces case stretch on first firing and you get more reloads as result. Lots of discussion everywhere on it.

 
Hornady brass has served me just fine for a few decades now....can't say the same for Lapua that so many rave about...but...it's just me....we all have our own experiences....but case head separations on second firing of brass that cost me $5.50 a piece....should sour anyone...EDIT...just saw the post above me...from some character with Dirty Feet...I'm still crying....more expensive...doesn't always mean better... remember that...Muddy socks!
 
Brass is brass, if it's all you've got and all that you have on hand then that's what one has to use. I have a good stock of Hornady brass and I am happy to have it. I have plenty of it in .358 Winchester, 35 Whelen and .444 Marlin, and 45-70. Try buying those cartridges in Peterson brass. I cannot even buy .270 Winchester brass, they are always out of stock! I use all of the above cartridges for bear hunting by rotating it out. Every season I use last year's lot up for range time and load new ammunition for the upcoming season.
 
I've been reloading since the early 80s. Wildcats (30 & 357 Herret) needing fire formed brass and common offerings (22-250, 243, 6mm Rem, 7mmRem, 300 WM, 300WSM). Remington, Federal, Winchester, Federal nickel plated, Winchester nickel plated, Nosler, Norma, and now Lapua. Only case head separations I have ever had was with Norma and Nosler, both after 3-5 reloads. Granted I shoot some "warm" loads in my 300 WSM, but shot 10 plus reloads for years in Federal, Federal nickel, Winchester and Winchester Nickel. Never a case head separation or failure of any kind. Heck I've worn the Nickel plating off to a point I can see the brass color. I honestly don't think you get the same quality from those folks the last 5 or more years. Lapua, ADG, & Peterson seem to get the most kudos by far.

It's interesting in that reworking my max pressure test with the Lapua brass I found an increase of velocity of almost 35 fps and saw very little change in case dimensions vs non fired dimensions. So now when I add my Lapua velocities in and the spread is now almost 80 fps differences between all the brass manufacturers I have used. Same bullet, same loads, same case prep, same primers, same rifle, and same old shooter. One begins to realize it's not about how hot and fast a cartridge is nor how far you can push it. It's all about being consistent.

Like the old bull and the young bull on top of a hill looking down at a brand new herd of cows. The young bull says "Hurry lets get down there and breed as many as we can". The old bull turns to the young bull, looks him square in the face and says, "Nope, let's walk down and breed them all." Perspective, Perspective.
 
I wouldn't touch that Federal brass with a Barge Pole.
Have NEVER seen it last to 3 loadings in ANY cartridge…

Cheers.
I have been using federal brass in my 300WSM for years I was given hundreds of once fired. I get annealed no problem with 5 + loads the primer pockets do get loose then a use primer sealer and get at least 1 more firing.
 
In a post about two weeks ago I was blasting Hornadys brass for a chambering issue on a (new) 7PRC.
Well, I owe Hornadys an apology. Wasn't the brass, I ordered new Alpha brass and had the same problem. Now the rifle is in route back to the manufacturer. It was shearing off a small slither of brass every time it was chambered, (The feeding issue). I was told it would take longer to ship it back than fix it, my response was then you already know what is wrong with it.
Anyway, I'm truly sorry hornady! Though I still think you're brass sucks.
 
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