NightForce NP-1RR
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sscoyote
Well-Known Member
I would not select that reticle for long-range coyotes. For 1 thing reticle-rangefinding game is not used that often anymore since the lasers came out. Besides that, once reticle-rangefinding is completely understood any multi-stadia reticle can be used for that purpose with varying degrees of accuracy. The problem is that the circles can only be used for rangefinding, whereas if u establish a system with a reticle like the NP-R1 and/or the R2 the stadia can function for both downrange zeroing and rangefinding with better accuracy than what u'll experience with the circles.
I prefer tree reticle systems for downrange zeroing, but if i were using an NF reticle for long-range coyote shooting i'd go with the NP-R2 (although i have an NP-R1), and calculate downrange zeroing and reticle-rangefinding (as a backup to the laser only).
I prefer tree reticle systems for downrange zeroing, but if i were using an NF reticle for long-range coyote shooting i'd go with the NP-R2 (although i have an NP-R1), and calculate downrange zeroing and reticle-rangefinding (as a backup to the laser only).
I would go with the NP-R1 reticle if you are going with Nightforce.The np-1rr looks to confusing to me. The reason I like the NP-R1 is for holding off wind, the horizontal hashmarks are at 2 MOA, instead of 5MOA as in the NP-R2 reticle.
The reason I wanted the NP-1RR reticle is for a back up rangeing system . I have a Swarovski rangefinder but will not range very well off a coyote in the snow , hunt in open country and rangeing is a problem with the snow ! If not the NP-1 RR which is better the NP-R1 or the NP-R-2 for what Iam doing. I have heard that the NP-1-RR is real busy when you look at it ?
Thanks again,
Thanks again,
sscoyote
Well-Known Member
It would be difficult to apply that reticle as a holdover reticle--there r too many uneven stadia points in it. It could be calcd., but it's just way easier to use the NP-R1 or 2. I didn't realize the NP-R2 had 5 MOA windage units. That is a little large to interpolate accurately. I would then stay with the NP-R1. Ranging with it's simple. It's based on the mil-ranging formula using 1 MOA (1.0472 inch per 100 yds.) subtension unit--
tgt size (") x range of reticle subtension measurment (usually 100 yds.) / reticle subtension (") / "mil-reading" (decimal equivalent) = range yds.
...looks complicated, super simple to apply. I use 11" back to brisket for a coyote. Suppose the coyote occupies 3.5 1 MOA subtension units, then just fill in the blanks--
11 x 100 / 1.0472 / 3.5 = x
x=300 yds.
So that entry on your range sticker would be--
3.5-300
...i calculate reticle-rangefinding to about 500 yds. as that's about as far as i can expect to get good results most of the time.
Here's what my reticle ranging looks like for an 11" coyote using the 1/2 mil units in Darrell Holland's Ultimate Mil reticle. I put it on a sticker and place it in a Butler Creek Blizzard-style objective cover. The Blizzard can be disassembled from the inside. It's almost like it was designed for just this application--pretty slick really...IMO.--
tgt size (") x range of reticle subtension measurment (usually 100 yds.) / reticle subtension (") / "mil-reading" (decimal equivalent) = range yds.
...looks complicated, super simple to apply. I use 11" back to brisket for a coyote. Suppose the coyote occupies 3.5 1 MOA subtension units, then just fill in the blanks--
11 x 100 / 1.0472 / 3.5 = x
x=300 yds.
So that entry on your range sticker would be--
3.5-300
...i calculate reticle-rangefinding to about 500 yds. as that's about as far as i can expect to get good results most of the time.
Here's what my reticle ranging looks like for an 11" coyote using the 1/2 mil units in Darrell Holland's Ultimate Mil reticle. I put it on a sticker and place it in a Butler Creek Blizzard-style objective cover. The Blizzard can be disassembled from the inside. It's almost like it was designed for just this application--pretty slick really...IMO.--
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I think your right, I talked to a 1000yd shooter from Wis he said the same thing go with the NP-R1 or NP-R2 or the Mark 4 with the TMR and dial in ! I wish Leupold and Nightforce would etch numbers in their scopes like Zeiss .
Senderofan
Well-Known Member
I've got one in my 8-32X BR model....And I can honestly say I've never used it. In fact..I wrote NightForce over the weekend about getting it switched out. The reticle itself is very busy.....I could get by with mildots. I think, way back in time ( My BR is now 10-11 years old), it was probably a pretty useful tool...but laser ringefinders are small...relatively cheap and most likely more accurate than trying to line things up in a circle or between lines.
Good Luck...I would say pick another reticle.
Wayne
opticspecialist
Well-Known Member
second on the npr2 reticle
jmden
Well-Known Member
+1 Also think of this reticle in terms of allowing a quicker more accurate 2nd shot using the reticle rather than turning dials, if appropriate. It'll also let u rangefind out several hundred yards somewhat accurately and can be used for holdover and holdoffs, but I'd typically just do that for a 2nd shot, if needed. What are those knobs for anyway. NPR1 seems like the best nf lrh reticle to me. JMHO.
sscoyote
Well-Known Member
Wish NF would've gone with 4 MOA windage on the NP-R2 instead of 5. Seems kinda' odd they'd go with that much of a subtension when 4 seems like a nice round # relative to the 2 MOA vertical...?
I agree , if I figure this right 1 mark 5moa @ 400 yds = 20 inches approx.
I am not sure the people at Nightforce use these scopes. And I still can not figure out why all the scope manufactures don't etch yardages numbers in the reticles like Zeiss rapid Z scopes. A simple process. Anyone know why they don't...........................................
I am not sure the people at Nightforce use these scopes. And I still can not figure out why all the scope manufactures don't etch yardages numbers in the reticles like Zeiss rapid Z scopes. A simple process. Anyone know why they don't...........................................
I have an NPR-1 NXS 3.5x15. Had Shawn Carlock set it up for me and it took all of 2 min to figure out how it works. Its great for ranging and quick to find target. Shot my first long range elk last fall with it. (890 yds). Im saving my money to buy another one. You can use it for ranging, wind comp, and hold over if needed in just a flash. The eye relief is good and focus is simple. The settings return to zero every time doesnt move when set. I shot an NP-1RR and personally I like the NPR-1 better, hope this helps
CNEBEARgun)
CNEBEARgun)
LONGSHOOTER
Well-Known Member
I prefer the NP-1RR reticle. Quick target ranging without a RFinder, multiple holdover, holdoff points if desired. No calculations, except to know your drop and windage off your buttstock card, unless it's in your head already, where it should be.
The verticle wire alone has holdovers of 3,4,5,7,8,9,14,15,16,19,20,21, and 22 MOA.
The ranging scales are good for multiple animal sizes, and can be made to be useful for different subtension sizes, by utilizing a different magnification. What's not to like?
No math! Click the light on for low light.
The only thing to remember, is to have it on highest power for rangefinding.
I would be hardpressed to choose a different reticle.
Thank you,
Longshooter
The verticle wire alone has holdovers of 3,4,5,7,8,9,14,15,16,19,20,21, and 22 MOA.
The ranging scales are good for multiple animal sizes, and can be made to be useful for different subtension sizes, by utilizing a different magnification. What's not to like?
No math! Click the light on for low light.
The only thing to remember, is to have it on highest power for rangefinding.
I would be hardpressed to choose a different reticle.
Thank you,
Longshooter
