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new to the site, questions about my rifle

Dustin,
I agree with Camshaft..... pass on the BSA. I am not familiar with the Vortex scopes so no real opinion on them. The thing to be careful with scopes that have dial up turrets is repeatability. Few if any of the lower end scopes I have seen have the precision internals that will allow you to dial up and down several moa's time after time and always return to EXACTLY the same zero. From my experience and observation Night Force, Leupold MK4, US Optics, and a few others can reliably do that........ and they are all high dollar scopes. Again I don't know about the vortex scopes, they may dial up and down just fine...

My suggestion is to buy a reasonable quality scope with a multi line reticle. You can get a decent Leupold or Nikon in your price range. That should easily get you out 500 or 600 yards with good accuracy. Some guys on this site are quite proficient out to 1000 yards and beyond with mil dots or other reticle configurations. You can go "dial up" later.

Don't worry about barrels yet. Stock, trigger, optics, handloading equipment should be enough to get you to 500 or 600..... at least try first then worry about a new barrel if the rifle simply will not shoot.

Lastly, I am sending you a private mail with my email. You are welcome to the press I have. Let me know if you want me to ship it to you or you can come and pick it up. My suggestion is for you to come and pick it up as I really think in an afternoon or evening I can really help you get started on what you will eventually need for long range shooting and precision handloading. I started many years ago trying to shoot long range and had no one to teach me anything, I learned a lot from the school of hard knocks and wasted a lot of money and time. I eventually discovered this site and my learning curve accelerated greatly. You are way ahead of the game by finding this site, just about every topic you can think of is in the archives and as you have seen by your post here there are plenty of guys on this site who are willing to help you learn.
 
thanks for the info....i'm starting to think after looking thru the classifieds that maybe i can pick up a used scope that i can dial maybe if i'm lucky

yeah i will come over and get the press i would like to talk more about shooting, i will even bring my rifle long as ya promise not to laugh...lol

anybody know about that mag for my gun that i linked?
 
Hey, drop me a message I am in Central arkansas (Hazen) and may be able to get together after deer season and help you with some load workup. My range is only 190 yards but it provides a goos enough base for basic load work. Vanguards tend to shoot very well, and if you are not wanting to spend a lot of extra money you may first be best served by seeing just how well it will do if you find a load specifically worked up around YOUR rifle. I may be repeating what others said, I didn't read every reply but let me know I may be able to help. Are you shooting at a public range or private?
 
private no range just a pretty good size farm...yeah it shoots handloads pretty well i'm just wanting to start extending my range beyond 400 yards but sure maybe you could come up here some time and we could do some shootin
 
I think the Vortex would work awesome for ya, never have got one but come close the only reason I would recommend them so fast is another LRH member on this site Broz bought a pile of them and if he's buying them they are GTG. The target dot is still available and on sale. Vortex - Camera Land NY
They have excellent turrets under the caps for LR shooting and the glass is good.
 
I doubt you've shot your Wby enough to burn out your barrel. I wouldn't worry about getting a barrel for it yet, you can use up the original barrel working on your shooting and your reloading.

I would go in this order:

1 Optics, $250 Nikon on sale, maybe.

2 Reloading, learning how to make/work up good loads. Never start to soon.

3 Bedding, if you need it, cheap to do your self. If your considering swapping your stock any how, good time to learn beadding.

4 Trigger, crispy is more important than pull weight, an expensive trigger doesn't do as much as trigger time. A safe trigger is more important.

5 Barrel now, if you have gotten more accurate than the original barrel, or you finaly burned it out.

6 Stock while doing the barrel, or shortly after.

This is my opinion, I'm usually on a budget. This would give you time to scrape up save money, etc, and still get out shooting, before everything is done.
 
Dustin,

If you are not familiar with Sinclair you should check out their site, request a catalog it is easier to look through and mark things.....

You will need at minimum:

Press............ RCBS is hard to beat, but I have a Forster co-ax as well and like it better for most applications.

Calipers........ get a digital set they are not that expensive

Case Trimmer........ RCBS is good. Wilson is the best (IMHO)

Powder measure....... I like digital and use an RCBS loadmaster, balance beam type will work just fine for starters though.

Case neck de-burr tool.......... about any will do.

Case lube...... I use Imperial Sizing Die Wax, Hornady One Shot is an easy to use spray lube. I don't like the RCBS lube with the foam pad.

Primer tray, case holders, shell holders, and of course dies.

That will pretty much get you started, but there are many more things you will need to accumulate. Here are a few more things I use on a regular basis.

Hand primer seating tool............ go with the Sinclair, expensive but worth it
Primer pocket uniformer
Flash hole de-burr tool
Neck trimmer
Hand de-priming tool
Device for measuring "run out"
Various other measuring devices for measuring neck thickness and other things as you get more precise in you loading.

Probably leaving something out, but that is all I can think of right now. Everyone develops their own style, so some of the other guys may have some "essentials" that I forgot or don't use.

* the best press money can buy is a Forster (should last you a couple lifetimes!). You won't need any shell holders with it, as it dosn't use them. Comes with it's own priming device on the backside that is extremely accurate (more money saved). It's also the straitest and squarest press made.

* Priming tools? Either buy the Forster outfit that is a stand alone unit or buy a K&M. The Sinclair is a fine tool and maybe just a little better than the K&M (I've used both and can't see any). If you use the Sinclair or the K&M you'll have to buy more shell holders, so plan for that. I like the K&M primer pocket uniformer as it works with a drill or electric screw drive. Myself, I'd just buy the Forster and the uniformer, and be done with it.

* I use a Wilson trimmer as well, but beware that you'll also need case holders for each round you shoot. Extremely square and well made

* there is one good run out gauge made and a bunch of "almost as good ones" out there. The Neco is the best (cept for mine)

* I tell everybody that a good measurer to get your feet wet with is the plain jane Lyman #55. It'll meter H380 with in a tenth of grain for what seems like forever, but is not so good with long grained powders. You'll need a trickeler. I use a RCBS, and trickle into a Pact electronic scale (own two). I won't recommend a Harrell for two reasons; they are expensive, and not really for beginers. Just get the Sinclair bottle kit and a 4", 6", and 8" drop tubes for the Lyman. The Redding BR30 is another good one, but no better than the Lyman for most reloading issues

* I have both electronic calipers and dial types (last count eight of them). I personally use a 4" pair of Mitutoyo dial type for nearly everything I do. Avoid the cheap Chinese ones! I also recommend buying a good 1" micrometer that reads in tenths (you do not need carbide faces). Later on buy a set of small hole gauges to use with the mics. Get the ones that have the flat face as you can use them in other places as well. Also think about buying a good dial indicator (you want a wand type as they are much more accurate) A Gem is a good one to buy (works very well with the Neco by the way). You don't really need a .0001" indicator, but a good .0005" would be nice (I use an Interrapid)

* lastly, I also recommend you buy a good vibratory case cleaner (I use a generic Midway). Get yourself a wine bottle cork and a sewing needle and insert it in the cork. Use this to clean out the flash holes after they are cleaned and polished (some holes will get media stuck in them)
gary
 
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ok whats the diff between the target and the mildot vortex scopes other then the reticle and the price?

not going to go full bore into the loading stuff just yet, talked to one of the guys i work with today and he shoots a 7mag so he can load for me untill i can get all that stuff set up
 
so then the only reason for the price difference is the sale that's goin on

i would really rather have the mildot so i guess i'll be givin the extra cash for it

ordered a stock this evening from stockys so that ones off the list, scope is next
 
my stock came in today so i went ahead and just thru it on to see what it looks/feels like.....i love it perfect fit to the rifle nice barrel clearance i woud load a pic but i cant find my cable for my camera right now
 
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