New Savage 110 mis-firing

bomberodevil

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Joined
Feb 5, 2010
Messages
492
Location
Southern AZ & Southern MI
Hi all, I'm new to Savage but have been using hunting rifles for several decades. I bought a 110 Ultralight in 280 AI, with the intent of being the grandkids deer/elk rifle in a couple years. I've also been reloading since the 80's, and I've never had a mis-fire with a handload cartridge. I got the rifle in December, located some Nosler brass in January, and hand loaded about 30 rounds for barrel break in. I went to the range, and the rifle wouldn't fire. The firing pin would advance inside the bolt, but no strike on the primer, not even a scratch.

I sent the rifle in to Savage through Cabela's, and 5-6 weeks later, I got the rifle back from Savage. I had called them a couple of times, and was once told the rifle was done and they had replaced the firing pin and spring. I took it back out to do break in again this morning, and the rifle malfunctioned again.

The issue is, I'll load a single round in the magazine, load the magazine into the rifle, and chamber the round. The safety seems to work in all three positions. When the rifle is on fire, sometimes the firing pin will advance with a trigger pull, and sometimes the trigger won't pull at all. The times it won't pull at all, you can see the firing pin has not been cocked to the rear in the bolt. Bottom line, the firing pin strikes the primer maybe after 10-15 bolt cocking and trigger pulls. Very dangerous to not know when the rifle will fire.

When the rifle does fire, the primer strike is a deep strike. I had a friend who works for Dillon Precision look at the primers after strike, and said they look like they are seated correctly.

I just dropped the rifle off at Cabela's for its second trip to the factory. I guess my questions are, being new to Savage, is there some quirk to the 110 that I'm not understanding? The video is about 4:00 minutes, but it shows the issue pretty clearly. Thanks for your time with this.

edit- I tried to post a video, I don't know how to. If someone wants to see the video, let me know and I can email or text it to you.

 
Last edited:
My 116 in 300 win mag does NOT reset the trigger till the bolt comes all the way back, when cycling the bolt you FEEL a small click as the bolt goes to its furthest rearward position, you need to see if yours is the same, my gunsmith says it has to do with the bottom bolt release, personally I don't know.
 
My 116 in 300 win mag does NOT reset the trigger till the bolt comes all the way back, when cycling the bolt you FEEL a small click as the bolt goes to its furthest rearward position, you need to see if yours is the same, my gunsmith says it has to do with the bottom bolt release, personally I don't know.
I've read through the manual a few times, and it says you can cock the bolt by raising and lowering the bolt, no mention of needing to bring it fully to the rear. Maybe the 110 is the same as yours, but the manual doesn't say that.
 
How light do you have the trigger set?

Does this sound like the problem you're having? If so, try increasing the trigger pull weight a bit.

 
Sounds like you could possibly have more than one problem here. You could have way too much headspace which can cause primers not to cause enough resistance against the pin to fire.

Can you manually remove the bolt and work the handle caming it over as though you're loading a shell then"fire" it?
 
Sounds like you could possibly have more than one problem here. You could have way too much headspace which can cause primers not to cause enough resistance against the pin to fire.

Can you manually remove the bolt and work the handle caming it over as though you're loading a shell then"fire" it?
I googled "savage accutrigger misfires", and there's a ton of posts. Seems like most of them are tied to the trigger being set very light. Most folks say it will be remedied by adding more poundage to the trigger. I'll pick it back up tomorrow from Cabela's and measure the trigger pull. I'm pretty sure that's it. Since it's going to be a hunting gun for grandkids, a pull of 2.5-3.0 should be safe. if that doesn't fix it, I'll look for some of the other possibilities you mentioned. Thanks for your assistance.
 
How light do you have the trigger set?

Does this sound like the problem you're having? If so, try increasing the trigger pull weight a bit.

This sounds exactly like the issue, and I've found a bunch of similar posts. I haven't touched the adjustment since I bought it new, but it does seem very light. I'll measure it and adjust it to 2.5-3.0. I bet that fixes it. Thanks for your assistance!
 
Hi all, I'm new to Savage but have been using hunting rifles for several decades. I bought a 110 Ultralight in 280 AI, with the intent of being the grandkids deer/elk rifle in a couple years. I've also been reloading since the 80's, and I've never had a mis-fire with a handload cartridge. I got the rifle in December, located some Nosler brass in January, and hand loaded about 30 rounds for barrel break in. I went to the range, and the rifle wouldn't fire. The firing pin would advance inside the bolt, but no strike on the primer, not even a scratch.

I sent the rifle in to Savage through Cabela's, and 5-6 weeks later, I got the rifle back from Savage. I had called them a couple of times, and was once told the rifle was done and they had replaced the firing pin and spring. I took it back out to do break in again this morning, and the rifle malfunctioned again.

The issue is, I'll load a single round in the magazine, load the magazine into the rifle, and chamber the round. The safety seems to work in all three positions. When the rifle is on fire, sometimes the firing pin will advance with a trigger pull, and sometimes the trigger won't pull at all. The times it won't pull at all, you can see the firing pin has not been cocked to the rear in the bolt. Bottom line, the firing pin strikes the primer maybe after 10-15 bolt cocking and trigger pulls. Very dangerous to not know when the rifle will fire.

When the rifle does fire, the primer strike is a deep strike. I had a friend who works for Dillon Precision look at the primers after strike, and said they look like they are seated correctly.

I just dropped the rifle off at Cabela's for its second trip to the factory. I guess my questions are, being new to Savage, is there some quirk to the 110 that I'm not understanding? The video is about 4:00 minutes, but it shows the issue pretty clearly. Thanks for your time with this.

edit- I tried to post a video, I don't know how to. If someone wants to see the video, let me know and I can email or text it to you.

Don't mess around, don't try and fire it, send it back!
 
Don't mess around, don't try and fire it, send it back!
I sent it back to Savage once for the identical issue, and they sent it back saying it's perfect! The issues many others have cited with the trigger set at a very light pull weight is identical to what I'm having. I'll check the trigger weight and adjust to 2.5-3.0 range. If it still misfires at that weight, I'll sent it back a second time. I'm pretty surprised the factory would send out a hunting rifle with the trigger preset at a very light weight, but who knows.
 
It does sound like the trigger is the issue. I've built and worked on a pile of savages. The accutrigger is fine but without a target spring it needs to be at 3 lbs or more. I'd check and ensure the trigger tension spring is set correctly and installed correctly. Make sure the weight of pull is 3 or more.
 
I sent it back to Savage once for the identical issue, and they sent it back saying it's perfect! The issues many others have cited with the trigger set at a very light pull weight is identical to what I'm having. I'll check the trigger weight and adjust to 2.5-3.0 range. If it still misfires at that weight, I'll sent it back a second time. I'm pretty surprised the factory would send out a hunting rifle with the trigger preset at a very light weight, but who knows.
I had the same problem with my Savage (2011 model). I would adjust the trigger pull weight at the lower end and as I shot it, the trigger would get lighter on its own until it eventually would do what is happening to you. The screw was backing itself out. About 8 or 9 years ago I put nail polish on the adjustment screw (it is actually a spring) after adjusting it and haven't had the problem since then.
 
^^What he said.^^
Most likely scenario, Accutrigger set too light. You are on the right track. Locktite blue or 222ms, or nail polish after it is confirmed fixed. I wouldn't use Locktite red. Let us know if that fixes it please. If it turns out to be something else we may all learn something.
Good luck!
 

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