New Barrel Won't Fit into Savage Action

[Stirling]

I'm doing my first build using a Savage action. I ordered and received a new barrel from a supplier I don't want to name at the moment. I don't want to bash them until I'm sure the problem is the barrel and I give them a chance to make it right. But I also want to make sure I didn't make a mistake before contacting them.

Since the donor rifle had a smooth barrel nut and I had to use a pipe wrench to remove it, also ordered a new knurled barrel nut as well. I started to assemble the pieces this weekend. The first problem I ran into is that the barrel nut does not want to go on the new barrel. I greased the barrel threads and can't get the nut to turn without applying what I estimate to be between 20 and 30 ftlbs. When I tried to thread the action onto the barrel I run into the same problem but I didn't try to put as much pressure on it as I did the barrel nut. If I do, I'm pretty sure I'll put some scratches on the action. The new barrel nut goes on the old barrel with minimal effort. I measured the threads of the new barrel at 1.061". I checked the old barrel and they are 1.053". From my research, the threads on the shank should be 1.055".

Am I missing anything? Is this the normal level of effort required to thread the barrel nut? Does this sound like a manufacturing defect? I know Savage makes an action for magnums that is bigger, but are there other size variations in Savage actions? I just want to make sure my expectations aren't wrong. Thanks for your input.

 

[can1010]

sounds like a dinged up starter thread not a big deal if you have the right file. 1.061" wont be a problem the two McGowan barrels I have are that size.

 

[Trickymissfit]

first of all the difference with the overall diameters means nothing. It's the pitch diameter that's causing you grief. Probably less than .005", and that's the problem. Yes the thread can be recut, but getting it close enough will be a bear. Ten thousands is easy because you have twice as much metal to work with. I'd get some thread triangles or three wires, and start measuring the two barrels. Can't remember what size wires you need. Perhaps .060"
gary

 

[geargrinder]

Actually it is a very common issue that you can fix yourself.

The barrel threads are cut correctly, they just have sharp peaks that need to be knocked down. It's very easy to do with a light touch with a flat file or a piece of emery cloth.

It happens because the action and nut are cut with a tool that has a very slight radius at the point. The radius is more or less depending on the wear on the tool used to cut the threads.

Once you knock the peaks down just a touch, the threads will have full engagement.

 

[Stirling]

Thanks for you input guys. I really appreciate it. I tried to thread the action onto the barrel and it went on with just a little effort. There was a little rust on the action threads that I had to work through. I think my issue is with the barrel nut. I may try smoothing the threads as suggested. And I may also just order a barrel nut from McGowan. I would think a barrel nut from the barrel maker should fit better. I'm just relieved the problem isn't with the barrel.

 

[ntg]

FWIW, I had no issues with the McGowan I put on last, and if it matters, I used a NSS lug, and nut.

 

[CaptnC]

Just throwing this out there, but you didn' mention the actual receiver model. I know they claim the Axis receiver is a little different thread cut which causes the barrel to fit very tightly.

I have three home builds on Savage actions. I've also replaced the barrel on a fourth. I guess it really is a home build too because the bolt and action are the only two pieces that are original. Even the trigger is not original.

Any way...one of my 4 Savage rifles is an Axis. And the factory Savage pull off barrel I put on it fit very tight. I don't feel the threads are different. I think Savage put some type of loctite type liquid on the threads before assembly. I wire brused the threads in the receiver with a small stainless wire brush and did the same to the barrel.

It screwed in just as easy as any of the other three rifles, but there was plenty of some kind of hardened agent in the receiver threads.

If i read correctly I think you got yours screwed on ok. Congrats if you did...

OLT...don' reuse the factory recoil lug they are stamped, get one that has been machined. It can only improve your accuracy.

Its an addiction working on these things. My first Savage was a model 16 SS SA 300wsm that I planned to use as is originally. The only thing left from the original rifle is the bolt and receiver.

My other three were bought to be torn down and built to my specs. All are new calibers and one even jumped up to being a magnum!

 

[tbrice23]

Every Savage barrel I've changed has had media from bead blasting in all the threads. This is what makes them so rough to tear down. If the blasting media (aluminum) remains in the action threads it will be just as hard to install the new barrel.
The previous post is correct about changing the recoil lug, get an aftermarket hardened lug.
The factory lugs bend on magnum lightweight rifles.

 

[CaptnC]

brice...I've heard that before but what I've found in the Axis looked more like a thread sealant type stuff.

I picked up another Axis last weekend for $200.00 chambered in 30-06 (my future 280 Remington or 6.5-06...not sure yet).

I pulled it apart and again seen something that looked more like a dried liquid than blast media. I didn' clean the threads on the barrel so I am going to see if I can get a picture of it. I have already cleaned the threads in the receiver.

 

[tbrice23]

Gotcha.
True, I've never worked on an Axis or Edge.
All I own are numbers; 12, 10, 16, 111....

 

[CaptnC]

The 12 I have came with out a barrel...the 16 and 111 the treads were clean. I didnt have to do much to screw in the next barrel.

Both Axis have had similar looking stuff in the threads.

 

[Stirling]

The action that I had the problems was a 111. When I removed the barrel I found some sort of grit as well, but I cleaned that out.

 

[geargrinder]

I just edited my post to make it a little more clear.

The barrel threads have the peaks that need to be knocked down. It's the difference between how internal threads and external threads are created.

The valley of internal threads are cut with a tool that had a slight radius. That rounded valley in the internal threads is what is conflicting with the peaks of the external threads of the barrel.

Knock down the peak of you external barrel thread and you should be ready to roll.

 

[Stirling]

I just edited my post to make it a little more clear.

The barrel threads have the peaks that need to be knocked down. It's the difference between how internal threads and external threads are created.

The valley of internal threads are cut with a tool that had a slight radius. That rounded valley in the internal threads is what is conflicting with the peaks of the external threads of the barrel.

Knock down the peak of you external barrel thread and you should be ready to roll.

You called it, geargrinder. I just came from my workbench. I did just what you said and it made much easier to get the barrel nut installed. There's still a little friction, but not enough to worry about. Thanks for the advice.