New barrel cleaning

hammer111

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Dec 14, 2013
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I'd like to open up for discussion the best way to clean a new barrel.

Just curious what would happen if you didn't clean the barrel before shooting.

I would never shoot a unclean barrel.
 
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I had a rifle that was full of grease that I failed to clean before trying to fire. It had lots of issues that I posed to the folks here and somebody suggested cleaning it. I never dreamed of cleaning a brand new rifle before but when I did I was amazed at how much grease was in the chamber. It was awful.
The reason that's a bad thing is grease in the chamber can cause high pressure. While ultimately that was not the problem with this rifle, it was a headspace issue from the factory, it did open my eyes and I will always clean before that first shot I take from now on.
 
Before I fire a new barrel of course I clean it with compressed air and then brake cleen to flush out any chips. Then I soak a patch with kroil and push that though, Then dry patch until dry. Then I oil a patch with kroil so the oil soaked part is about the size of a dime and push it through and it is ready. Never shoot a fresh cleaned barrel with out a skim of kroil.The copper will deposit like crazy. Think of mama. Doesn,t go so good when dry lol. If you can,t find kroil. It is in a bright orange can you can do as the Canadians do. Mix half atf and half naptha
 
I use bore tech. Copper remover and carbon remover.
Which do you use first , I do copper first.
 
I clean every new build/barrel/rifle even after I get it from the gunsmith, that way I know what I'm starting with.

My gunsmith says it's important to get the Carbon out after each of the first few shots so it doesn't harden and score the barrel as well as removing the copper.

So I use Carbout first then Patchout or Wipeout for copper.
You'll find every new barrel is different, some foul quicker than others, some hardly copper foul at all.
 
When a barrel is chambered, threaded and crowned There are cutting oils and machining chips left in the barrel. that MUST be removed to prevent damaging the bore or the chamber.

After I do this work on a barrel, First I push a patch using a one size smaller jag through the bore to remove the bulk of these products of machining. then I push a dry patch through it to check for more of these products.

Then with the barrel muzzle pointed slightly downward I swab the chamber and make sure it is clean before it is assembled and torqued in the action. To prevent any assembly lube from getting in the chamber it is cleaned one more time after assembly.

The last step before firing the rifle, I do a solvent cleaning to remove any residuals
and dry patch until the patch comes clean.

I do this to prevent any foreign substances from damaging the bore the first time I fire it. You cannot be to careful and should make sure there is nothing that could scratch the bore left inside.

I also do a break in and monitor the barrel condition as I go for best condition before starting load development. Many people don't go to this much trouble, But To damage an expensive barrel because of carelessness Just doesn't make sense to me.

J E CUSTOM
 
If for no other reason I clean them and do a visual inspection before I shoot for a safety/sanity check. I got a shotgun that had a piece of plastic in the bore from bouncing around in a cheap case. Glad I looked before I banana peeled it.
 
Good stuff, never thought about shavings. You'd think the manufacturer would flush the barrel before sending it out to the stores .

The average Joe won't clean his gun first.I can only think of 2 guns I didn't clean first. It was in the 70s my first gun a rem semi auto 22. Surprisingly it shoots good. My Browning bar 280 , it shoots good too. I'm lucky I guess.

In my defense, there was no internet or anyone to guide me.
 
Good stuff, never thought about shavings. You'd think the manufacturer would flush the barrel before sending it out to the stores .

The average Joe won't clean his gun first.I can only think of 2 guns I didn't clean first. It was in the 70s my first gun a rem semi auto 22. Surprisingly it shoots good. My Browning bar 280 , it shoots good too. I'm lucky I guess.

In my defense, there was no internet or anyone to guide me.
We wrote about carbon or copper first. Get the carbon off to get the copper exposed. I have seen barrels so bad it was in there like a layer cake. Also get a set of tipton nickle plated jags. No false color on your patch from the brass.
 
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