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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
New barrel advice
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<blockquote data-quote="Harry Knutz" data-source="post: 2624036" data-attributes="member: 123671"><p>Ask your smith to give you the specs for the reamer he used? He should at a bare minimum be able to tell you the neck diameter. Most reamers have a drawing number on them, Many are marked with neck dia and freebore right on the reamer or it is marked "Sammi" Or "CIP" which will be easy to look up.</p><p></p><p>Many reamers will also have revision numbers on them too.</p><p></p><p>I also agree with another poster who said that opening the chamber another 0.005. was not the right approach, Magnum chambers should be cut as tight as possible and still function. Magnum brass when it suffers a case head separation always breaks just ahead of the belt, This is because it headspaces on the belt, So different FL sizing dies may place the shoulder datum slightly differently but the case always flows from the belt unless it was neck sized.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Harry Knutz, post: 2624036, member: 123671"] Ask your smith to give you the specs for the reamer he used? He should at a bare minimum be able to tell you the neck diameter. Most reamers have a drawing number on them, Many are marked with neck dia and freebore right on the reamer or it is marked "Sammi" Or "CIP" which will be easy to look up. Many reamers will also have revision numbers on them too. I also agree with another poster who said that opening the chamber another 0.005. was not the right approach, Magnum chambers should be cut as tight as possible and still function. Magnum brass when it suffers a case head separation always breaks just ahead of the belt, This is because it headspaces on the belt, So different FL sizing dies may place the shoulder datum slightly differently but the case always flows from the belt unless it was neck sized. [/QUOTE]
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New barrel advice
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