New 6.5 build

112Savage

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Joined
Nov 12, 2011
Messages
247
Location
Southwest Virginia
So I've decided to have a 6.5 grendel built. To say I'm excited would be an understatement. I was thinking a lighter weight rig built for hunting Deer, coyotes, and groundhogs with the occasional piece of paper or steel.

Stag arms upper and lower
Alexander Arms 20" lite barrel
Jard 2.5# adjustable trigger
Hogue ergo grip
Ambi safety (I'm left handed but the rest of my family isn't)
Yankee Hill Smooth free float hand guard
JP Enterprises adjustable gas block
Ace ARFX butt stock

What type of mount should I be looking at (still thinking light weight)? I was thinking a weaver classic 4-16x42. for ample magnification and still lighter weight

any suggestions are welcome
 
Unless you're messing with suppressors or have some other special needs in mind, I'd have to agree with the question about the adjustable gas block. No real requirement here, especially in a standard length barrel, like the 20" you've mentioned. A 24" or 26" might qualify as a long barrel (and typical on most competitive guns) but yeah, expansion ratio matters a bunch. The 20" is a good choice to maximize performance in a very managable envelope.
 
Unless you're messing with suppressors or have some other special needs in mind, I'd have to agree with the question about the adjustable gas block. No real requirement here, especially in a standard length barrel, like the 20" you've mentioned. A 24" or 26" might qualify as a long barrel (and typical on most competitive guns) but yeah, expansion ratio matters a bunch. The 20" is a good choice to maximize performance in a very manageable envelope.

Thanks Kevin that's what I was leading up to, no need unless suppressed. I cant see the utility of rifles with barrels longer that 20" except on the firing line, but I suppose lots of guys do.

I would pick another stock, if you stick with the barrel in your initial post your going to be so noise heavy your going to end up hating the rifle. A magpul PRS would balance out a 18024" barrel very nicely, or just stick with a standard A2.
 
So the adjustable gas block was suggested by the gunsmith building the rifle. I assume it it so he can "tune" it to the load? I told him I planned on shooting the 123grain amax and sst so I also assume he is planning on tuning the gas output to that load.
This is my first AR and I have no plans to suppress it. My friend has the magpul PRS on a 24" bull barrel and I was worried about weight if I went with it. I may look at the A2 if the gun doesn't balance well.
 
So the adjustable gas block was suggested by the gunsmith building the rifle. I assume it it so he can "tune" it to the load? I told him I planned on shooting the 123grain amax and sst so I also assume he is planning on tuning the gas output to that load.
This is my first AR and I have no plans to suppress it. My friend has the magpul PRS on a 24" bull barrel and I was worried about weight if I went with it. I may look at the A2 if the gun doesn't balance well.

Here read about the gas block
JP - Adjustable Gas Systems

I would seriously consider who your having put the rifle together for you, if he thinks that's what the gas block is for you may be in trouble. Suppressors are DIRTY they make your weapon DIRTY which can reduce the amount of gas available to operate the system (this is mostly encountered in DI SBRs in 5.56). The idea if the adjustable gas system is not new and several modern and much older designs incorporate this feature in there design. I really cant see how the added cost is going to benefit you in this instance.

Its so easy to build these your self its crazy, there are no special skill involved at all. Its like legos with a wrench.
building an ar 15 - YouTube
 
I appreciate your input. The adjustable gas block was the gunsmith's input. He is a trained gunsmith and teaches the gunsmithing class at his local community college. I trust this guy knows what he is doing.
As it is put on JP enterprises website:
"Most rifles are over-gassed and the resulting bolt slamming effect is a very significant part of the felt recoil impulse, which impedes sight recovery. We found that controlling the bolt velocity made for a much smoother shooting rifle. This easy-to-install gas manifold allows you to tune your bolt velocity to a particular load and optimize the feel of your rifle."
If he is able to tune the amount of gas output to the intended loading I want, then the rifle will apparently be smoother shooting. I am no expert on AR's, that is why I'm having a gunsmith put it together.
 
So the adjustable gas block was suggested by the gunsmith building the rifle. I assume it it so he can "tune" it to the load? I told him I planned on shooting the 123grain amax and sst so I also assume he is planning on tuning the gas output to that load.
This is my first AR and I have no plans to suppress it. My friend has the magpul PRS on a 24" bull barrel and I was worried about weight if I went with it. I may look at the A2 if the gun doesn't balance well.
2
The Grendel is a sweet gun, your list looks good and your going to enjoy it. The 20" is the right choice, the Grendel is super accurate and if you go with a standard barrel it will actually weigh less then its smaller caliber cousin the 5.56. Unless of course you go with the PRS which is a very good stock. The RRA scope mount is what I went with using a Nikon BDC 4-12-40.gun)
 
Just got an email back from my gunsmith about the AA barrel. I had seen on their website that their barrels are threaded from their factory. I asked if he had planned to use a muzzle brake or flash suppressor etc. because I was intrigued by the Mini Muscle Brake despite it not being necessary on such a light recoiling rifle. His reply was that he was going to just cut the threads and crown it. Would ya'll use a muzzle brake or just crown the barrel? The rifle once again will be used for hunting so I'm a bit wary of using a muzzle brake, but after seeing Kevin Cram's results on a 204 Ruger I am intrigued at how much less recoil I could see even in the 6.5 Grendel.
 
My Grendels have very little recoil so unless youre recoil sensitive I would go with the flash suppressor or crown. Muzzlebrakes (in my opinion) arent necessary until you get to the big magnum rifles gun)although they do look very cool.
 
Make sure you want a 20" barrel, I have a 18". If you go with 16, get a mid-length system. I like the std, simple gas block. Also, I use a BCM m16 carrier, more mass and a H2 buffer.

I do think that stock will make a 20" nose heavy. Also, I would not use a scope over 10x. Accually, a max 7 - 8 power would be ideal for a lt weight rifle.

I like the Grendel, with the new 123 SST, it may be the do all bullet for the 6.5G.
 
Thanks, I kinda thought that the re-crown was the best idea for a hunting rifle. The barrel will now be 19.5 inches. Maybe I'll save the Mini Muscle Brake for a 7-08 pistol :D
 
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