Need help removing muzzle brake.

[barnesuser28]

Hey guys, i was shooting our 338 Lapua today and was reminded of its harsh recoil, so i am considering getting a new brake for it, but the brake i will likely get has a washer set so i can install it myself, if i can get this da** factory brake off! I tried heating up the brake with a hair dryer to 150*, and put a drill bit through the ports and gave them a good whack, i also soaked the brake in kroil over night. But it didnt budge, any ideas?

 

[Broz]

Sounds like someone glued it on with loc-tite? If that is the case it will take more heat.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Riley....

You might try Bore-Tech Carbon Remover but before that, I'd try soaking the muzzle brake end in a coffee can (submerged) in good old cheap non-chlorimated brake cleaner.

One of the 2 will break the carbon bond.

 

[barnesuser28]

The brake hasnt been touched since it left the factory at savage. BTW, i just settled on a 99 grain load of rl-33 under a 300 grain OTM at 2832 fps, i just need a little more distance testing to confirm. Should i try slowly heating with a blow torch? Maybe 200*? I dont have any brake cleaner but i do have the boretech C4, i will try that.

 

[Edd]

If they put loctite on it, you will need to heat it to around 400°.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I've never known Savage to locktite a muzzle brake and thats all I have in long guns.

Far as breaking a loctite bond (if it is loctited), different grades take different heat levels.

Start withn a soak in Bore-Tech, Riley, and go from there.

Brake cleaner is available everywhere, wallyworld included.

 

[Hired Gun]

You don't want to heat it slow. Reason is you don't want the heat in the barrel. A map gas will go hotter faster than propane but propane will work too. Stay away from acetylene. That is way too hot and hard to control. Forget the penetrating oil if it's loctited and you will need a lot more than a drill bit. I use the thickest brass rod that will fit and then stack them to fill the port as much as possible. Get the rifle locked down in a vise and be ready to put a hundred pounds of torque if need be. You will need an infrared heat sensing gun to monitor the temp. Put the heat on the brake only right near the threads. When it hits 400 give it a try. Just don't quit. You will need to go hard. Beyond the Loctite I have see them torqued up to 150 pounds. Still no go heat to 450 but it needs to be quick or you will burn the barrel.

 

[barnesuser28]

If it comes to that i will just have a local smith remove it for $30

 

[Gene R.]

They must have the same ****ed gorilla at the Savage plant installing brakes as barrel nuts