Necking Down

ELKS2TH

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Nov 26, 2011
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I am having a 7mm-300wby built. I already have a redding neck sizing die for this caliber and have a full length die set on order. My question is, what are the steps to necking down the 300 Weatherby brass to 7mm? Neither the neck die or the full length die are bushing style dies. What else do I need if anything and how do I do this? Does it need to be done in small steps and if so how do I do it in small steps without bushing style dies? The dies I have on order are redding D series dies. Any help would be much appreciated.
 
I am having a 7mm-300wby built. I already have a redding neck sizing die for this caliber and have a full length die set on order. My question is, what are the steps to necking down the 300 Weatherby brass to 7mm? Neither the neck die or the full length die are bushing style dies. What else do I need if anything and how do I do this? Does it need to be done in small steps and if so how do I do it in small steps without bushing style dies? The dies I have on order are redding D series dies. Any help would be much appreciated.


there are three very important steps here

1. lube case
2. insert sizing die into press
3. use press to cycle brass through sizing die

One caliber isn't anything but a walk in the park, especially down.

If you specified tight neck you may have to turn your necks a bit, but otherwise size, trim, load as usual.
 
Thanks Lefty! For the first firing of new cases can I get away with just neck sizing down and fire forming to my chamber or should I full length size the first time?
 
If you find necking down in one step requires a great deal of force or the brass doesn't respond well, use the seating die first. It is slightly larger than the FL die and makes a great intermediary step.
 
Thanks Lefty! For the first firing of new cases can I get away with just neck sizing down and fire forming to my chamber or should I full length size the first time?
It doesn't really make much difference... The brass is usually under fl dimensions anyway so you will be essentially neck sizing either way. I'd rather have the extra support of the FL die to keep things squared up better.

As Az shooter says, you can use a seater die first as an intermediate step for rather large re-forms. I however am also a fan of copious amounts of lube. I slather it on when I'm forming cases that take a lot of metal movement. (I've even been known to style my hair with case lube, or so they say...:D:D:D ) Seriously though, you will often need to use more lube when forming but this one isn't much of a move so don't worry.
 
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I have had a 7/300 wby for over 25 years mine was built by Howard Wolfe and I am curious as to who is building yours and and how did you decide on the 7/300 wby. The advice you have recieved here is right on.
Drags
 
Mine is being built by Randy Selby of Randy's custom rifles. He is building it on an old Enfield action I had. I chose this caliber after some discussion with him. Decided on this over the 7STW because there is a better choice of brass. Check out his web site. Randy's custom rifles. He has a good section about his history and experience.
 
Mine is being built by Randy Selby of Randy's custom rifles. He is building it on an old Enfield action I had. I chose this caliber after some discussion with him. Decided on this over the 7STW because there is a better choice of brass. Check out his web site. Randy's custom rifles. He has a good section about his history and experience.
Run a 300 roy through a 7stw die and it only needs to be fireformed and trimmed. I prefer standard shoulders so I've been with the stw. To each their own; they are both fine rounds.
 
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