I'm looking for input from those of you experienced with different kinds of muzzlebrakes. I have a Rem 700 BDL SS 300 RUM that I want to have a brake installed on. My experience with one on TC pistol was less than pleasant. I want one that is the most effective for recoil reduction and the least amount of added blast (noise) to the shooter. I have been looking at the Vias, JP Rifles brake (the new narrow one), OPS inc, and Holland. For those shooters that have experience with these brakes, please give me some advice. Thanks.
Muzzlebrakes
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Varmint Hunter
Well-Known Member
"I want one that is the most effective for recoil reduction and the least amount of added blast (noise) to the shooter."
Remember the old addage; you can't have your cake and eat it too. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I have a Vais brake on my 6.5x284. I find that a single shot afield without hearing protection hurts my ears. If it hurts your ears then it is causing damage. Most hearing damage is said to be permenant.
IMO you will need hearing protection when using ANY brake on the 300 RUM. If your using hearing protection, then you may just as well use an efficient brake that will inevitably be loud.
Just my 2 cents
Remember the old addage; you can't have your cake and eat it too. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I have a Vais brake on my 6.5x284. I find that a single shot afield without hearing protection hurts my ears. If it hurts your ears then it is causing damage. Most hearing damage is said to be permenant.
IMO you will need hearing protection when using ANY brake on the 300 RUM. If your using hearing protection, then you may just as well use an efficient brake that will inevitably be loud.
Just my 2 cents
I know some people that muzzle broke there 300 rum's and when I ask them if I should do the same to mine they say its a bad idea. I shoot 150 and 165 grain bullets so the recoil is not too bad. They tell me when they are hunting they always use ear protection before they shoot even if means watchin a 350 class bull disapearing into the trees.
I know people that have removed there muzzle breaks.
I know people that have removed there muzzle breaks.
ss7mm
Well-Known Member
TomVan:
What Varmint Hunter said is true. You can't have your cake and eat it too.
Do a search for either muzzlebrake or muzzle brake and you will get a lot of reading, information and opinions.
Just remember that for a break to actually work it has to direct gases against a surface that is perpendicular to the bore so that the effecet of the gasses hitting the perpendicular surface overcomes the tendency of the gun to move reward under recoil. The more of the gasses you can direct against a surface that is perpendicular to the bore the more the brake will negate the effects of the gun recoiling to the rear when fired.
When these gasses are redirected from the normal forward direction and used for braking the more of the "muzzle blast" you will hear because it no longer goes forward but out to the side and to the rear. The more of the total gasses you direct outward and reward, the louder the gun will sound to you when fired, but the more effective it will be at reducing felt recoil.
I'd say that if a brake is "quieter" than another unit that the quieter brake wasn't as effective. If you don't hear an increase if noise then the gasses are still going forward and aren't being used to lessen the recoil. This is only my opinion because I have never tried two different brakes on the same gun.
I have a Holland QD brake on a Weatherby 7mm mag and it now seems to me like it's about like shooting a 243 win. It now just gives a little nudge rearward and stays right down on the bipod or bags. I can now spot my own hits from 100 yards on out. I wear hearing protection whenever I shoot, in fact when I'm hunting I have a pair of plugs around my neck to use.
The Holland is very effective, and because of the holes on top, it reduces muzzle lift when firing. Another thing about the Holland design is that it's very effective at recoil reduction but, since there are no holes on the bottom of the brake, there is never any dust blown up when you shoot prone, like there is on models that have holes all the way around and on the bottom.
I am having a custom gun built and another one rebuilt/re-barreled and both will have Holland QD brakes on them.
--------------------
Dick
Post Extras: Print Post Remind Me! Notify Moderator
What Varmint Hunter said is true. You can't have your cake and eat it too.
Do a search for either muzzlebrake or muzzle brake and you will get a lot of reading, information and opinions.
Just remember that for a break to actually work it has to direct gases against a surface that is perpendicular to the bore so that the effecet of the gasses hitting the perpendicular surface overcomes the tendency of the gun to move reward under recoil. The more of the gasses you can direct against a surface that is perpendicular to the bore the more the brake will negate the effects of the gun recoiling to the rear when fired.
When these gasses are redirected from the normal forward direction and used for braking the more of the "muzzle blast" you will hear because it no longer goes forward but out to the side and to the rear. The more of the total gasses you direct outward and reward, the louder the gun will sound to you when fired, but the more effective it will be at reducing felt recoil.
I'd say that if a brake is "quieter" than another unit that the quieter brake wasn't as effective. If you don't hear an increase if noise then the gasses are still going forward and aren't being used to lessen the recoil. This is only my opinion because I have never tried two different brakes on the same gun.
I have a Holland QD brake on a Weatherby 7mm mag and it now seems to me like it's about like shooting a 243 win. It now just gives a little nudge rearward and stays right down on the bipod or bags. I can now spot my own hits from 100 yards on out. I wear hearing protection whenever I shoot, in fact when I'm hunting I have a pair of plugs around my neck to use.
The Holland is very effective, and because of the holes on top, it reduces muzzle lift when firing. Another thing about the Holland design is that it's very effective at recoil reduction but, since there are no holes on the bottom of the brake, there is never any dust blown up when you shoot prone, like there is on models that have holes all the way around and on the bottom.
I am having a custom gun built and another one rebuilt/re-barreled and both will have Holland QD brakes on them.
--------------------
Dick
Post Extras: Print Post Remind Me! Notify Moderator
7Rumloader
Well-Known Member
TomVan
SS7mm stated it very well. I also use a holland brake on a 7RUM and it works wonders on felt recoil! I now have less recoil than any rifle I have ever owned or own now except for a 22.250. I also am having a custom built and it will be receiving a holland brake as well.
As far a increased noise I have never shot it without hearing protection so I can't say for sure but I would imagine there is.
Do like dick said and always carry hearing protection with you hunting as I plan on doing this year.
Good luck!
SS7mm stated it very well. I also use a holland brake on a 7RUM and it works wonders on felt recoil! I now have less recoil than any rifle I have ever owned or own now except for a 22.250. I also am having a custom built and it will be receiving a holland brake as well.
As far a increased noise I have never shot it without hearing protection so I can't say for sure but I would imagine there is.
Do like dick said and always carry hearing protection with you hunting as I plan on doing this year.
Good luck!
chris matthews
Well-Known Member
I'll back up the Holland, but add that I prefer the OPS Inc for the most recoil reduction and the Badger brake is great as well.
davewilson
Well-Known Member
isn't the holland brake the one that you can turn a baffold and cover the holes up so it's not as loud? when doing this,does it still reduce the recoil.is it not as bad on the ears? does anyone know about that new brake from JP? it seems to be along the lines of the OPS.baffle/chamber type.
chris matthews
Well-Known Member
No the Holland can't be covered up. The Boss system is kinda like that....but didn't really work all that well.
G
Guest
Guest
I have a Vias on a 338 Ruger than cuts the recoil a bunch feels about like a ......270? another friend has one on a .300 Ultra and it was very mild on recoil. The vias works better than my Boss on a 300Win mag but is not tunable.
Old Bear
Old Bear
ricka0
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
<font color="purple"> You can't have your cake and eat it too. </font>
[/ QUOTE ]
Actually, that old cliche is false, you <font color="red"> CAN </font>[/i] if you use a <font color="red"> CAN </font>
A <font color="red"> CAN </font> being a supressor - illegal in most states and much more expensive than a muzzle brake.
Muzzle brakes work by preventing the forward momentum of the gasses (muzzle blast) from going forward - the jet effect of the gasses leaving the barrel at a much higher velocity than the bullet exit. A modern shark brake like those on my 50 BMGs actually do much better than perpendicular (ie, reduce gas thrust component to zero) with their 30 deg brake - they contribute COS(90-30) = .5 or 1/2 the thrust pulls the gun forward - opposite the impulse of the bullet.
Given that you you <font color="red"> CAN't </font>[/i] buy a <font color="red"> CAN </font> - the old cliche is probably true.
My BAR 338 WinMag kicks like a .243, all of my 50's seem to kick even less (but they do push you back). My semi-custom 375 Kirby/Lilja/RUM arrives today sporting a Holland QD - report soon.
<font color="purple"> You can't have your cake and eat it too. </font>
[/ QUOTE ]
Actually, that old cliche is false, you <font color="red"> CAN </font>[/i] if you use a <font color="red"> CAN </font>
A <font color="red"> CAN </font> being a supressor - illegal in most states and much more expensive than a muzzle brake.
Muzzle brakes work by preventing the forward momentum of the gasses (muzzle blast) from going forward - the jet effect of the gasses leaving the barrel at a much higher velocity than the bullet exit. A modern shark brake like those on my 50 BMGs actually do much better than perpendicular (ie, reduce gas thrust component to zero) with their 30 deg brake - they contribute COS(90-30) = .5 or 1/2 the thrust pulls the gun forward - opposite the impulse of the bullet.
Given that you you <font color="red"> CAN't </font>[/i] buy a <font color="red"> CAN </font> - the old cliche is probably true.
My BAR 338 WinMag kicks like a .243, all of my 50's seem to kick even less (but they do push you back). My semi-custom 375 Kirby/Lilja/RUM arrives today sporting a Holland QD - report soon.
7Rumloader
Well-Known Member
b1g b0re I don't know much about 50's but the holland QD will tame a RUM down to the 243 range in recoil or less depending on weight of your rig.
Before Kirby installed my Holland my RUM would make me want to end load development at about 20 rounds in a day.
Now I'm launching 20 to 30 grain heavier bullets and have shot as many as 50 in a day without any tenderness or anything.
I compare the felt recoil now to a heavy barrel 243.
Before Kirby installed my Holland my RUM would make me want to end load development at about 20 rounds in a day.
Now I'm launching 20 to 30 grain heavier bullets and have shot as many as 50 in a day without any tenderness or anything.
I compare the felt recoil now to a heavy barrel 243.
