Muzzle brake significantly affecting accuracy

[charliehorse27]

I have a Seekins Precision Havak PH1 in 300 WM. I recently took off the Seekins ATC brake it had, and instead fitted it with a Griffin Paladin brake so I could use a suppressor with it. Accuracy with the Seekins ATC brake and handloads was around 3/4 inch at 100 yards. Accuracy with the Paladin brake is now 1.5 inch at 100, and 3.5 inches at 200 yards. However, with the suppressor attached, it drops to 1/2 inch at 100 yards.

What accounts for such a dramatic shift in accuracy with just a different bare brake? I intend to hunt with the rifle bare-braked, so the loss of accuracy is a little concerning.

 

[Tiny Tim]

Could be a barrel harmonics issue. Are you certain the bullet is not contacting the new brake. Just spit-balling here.

 

[Laelkhunter]

Check the interior of the brake with a bullet to see if the bullet is striking the interior. After shooting a new brake, depending on design sometimes the powder blast cutting the metal in the holes of the brake causes the edge of the holes in the brake to deform a little. This causes a slight ridge of metal to form in the bullet path. Bullets traveling down the barrel strike this ridge before they exit the barrel. It's not readily visible if you look through the brake, but can be readily detected with a bullet.
Just remove the brake from the rifle, and drop a bullet through it. It should pass through without any resistance. You will be able to tell immediately if there is a "ridge" that the bullet is striking. If you encounter that, purchase a chain saw file, and carefully use it to remove the "ridge" in the baffles (or holes) inside the brake. It only takes a stroke or two around the interior of the brake, keeping the bullet path symmetrical. Usually do it once and you're done, you won't have to use the file again. Just make sure to keep the file away from any threads inside the brake that would booger them up making it difficult to reattach the brake.

 

[Amf247]

If the groups drop to 1/2 inch suppressed why wouldn't you hunt with the suppressor? I mean isn't that more accurate and actually more ethical than even using the Seekins?

Seems like a harmonics issue. If your groups are opening and closing when shooting suppressed/ non suppressed, then it sounds like a tuning thing.

The way the gasses are being released through that griffin brake is not jiving with your rig. Could also be a change in weight/ balance or harmonics. If that's hard to believe, ask someone who has used a barrel tuner. It's amazing how little shifts in weight can affect accuracy. It's also not really designed for accuracy. I don't care what griffin says. It's designed to take that suppressor on and off quickly.
If you want a brake then go one that's designed for accuracy, and when you want to shoot suppressed then direct thread.
Area 419 or APA are the top IMO.

Just my $.02

 

[FEENIX]

I have a Seekins Precision Havak PH1 in 300 WM. I recently took off the Seekins ATC brake it had, and instead fitted it with a Griffin Paladin brake so I could use a suppressor with it. Accuracy with the Seekins ATC brake and handloads was around 3/4 inch at 100 yards. Accuracy with the Paladin brake is now 1.5 inch at 100, and 3.5 inches at 200 yards. However, with the suppressor attached, it drops to 1/2 inch at 100 yards.

What accounts for such a dramatic shift in accuracy with just a different bare brake? I intend to hunt with the rifle bare-braked, so the loss of accuracy is a little concerning.

I agree with others about the change in barrel harmonics affecting your group. You need to re-define your ultimate goal, hunt with Paladin brake or suppressor. Good luck and happy safe hunting/shooting.

 

[Rich Coyle]

How is suppressed "more ethical"?

 

[Amf247]

How is suppressed "more ethical"?

Don't read too much into it. I was simply talking about his particular situation, not suppressed in general. I don't care what anyone uses to kill, suppressed, broke or none. He's not shooting at steel, he's shooting at an animal. IMO you should take the most accurate system to field. In his case, it's suppressed.
That's it.
It's just an opinion

 

[lancetkenyon]

Why not hunt suppressed? I LOVE hunting with a suppressor.

 

[wasskeet]

I would think that an accuracy issue could be caused by a muzzle break - but I would think most folks would have that worked out by now. In about the late 80's/early 90's I had a Win. Model 70 featherweight in .270 that shot well under an 1", fair amount of 3-shot groups that were clover leaves. Decided to try a muzzle brake. Had a local smith' put one on - never again did it shoot right. Even after removal. Never went back for any other work either.

 

[ultraedge]

I changed brakes from a smaller one to a larger one and my group size increased dramatically. I made a neck tension and seating depth adjustment and the rifle went back to its small groups.

 

[Dean2]

Tune your load to the brake you want to use. It really isn't surprising that a different brake would shoot the same load different. As Ultraedge says start with seating, find the best depth then check if charge weight changes can shrink it even more.