Mods for every AR-15

gj

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Idaho
Every one of my AR-15 i own automatically get these modifications , needed or not .

First they get a accuwedge fitted.

Then the trigger group is polished to a mirror Finish.

Next the hammer gets a 4 lb J-P enterprizes spring .

Then the firing pin i polished down to the same mirror Finish .

Then the rifle is stripped and all lube is removed and re lubed
with my own (specially processed ) Hornady one shot cleaner and lube to eliminate
dirt and powder accumulation...

AND NOT ALL ,,,, but many of my rifles get there hammers Bobbed for faster lock time.

WHAT ARE YOURS ?
 
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Usually I build mine from the ground up...But all of mine get these upgrades, and get the same treatment...

Ergo Suregrip ambi grip.
Replace the milspec trigger with an aftermarket single-stage drop-in and some KNS pins.
Scrub-out the barrel from all debris and dirt.
Mount an optic and bore-sight it.
Take it out and shoot it for function-check and accuracy testing.
 
I build my own as well. I get an aero precision stripped lower so I don't have to use a wedge, buy whatever trigger,stock, barrel, handguard, upper receiver suits me at the moment and have at it. Lots of fun doing it on your own.
 
I build my own as well. I get an aero precision stripped lower so I don't have to use a wedge, buy whatever trigger,stock, barrel, handguard, upper receiver suits me at the moment and have at it. Lots of fun doing it on your own.

Like said mine get the accuwedge needed or not... and many have not needed it but still get it,,, cheap insurance for a $1.00 !
 
Usually I build mine from the ground up...But all of mine get these upgrades, and get the same treatment...

Ergo Suregrip ambi grip.
Replace the milspec trigger with an aftermarket single-stage drop-in and some KNS pins.
Scrub-out the barrel from all debris and dirt.
Mount an optic and bore-sight it.
Take it out and shoot it for function-check and accuracy testing.

I have also gone the drop in route one Elfman over $240.00 gives me the most trouble of any trigger i have owned... 2nd drop in Velocity 3lb with / KNS pins so far 100% reliable..

I have learned over time how to make milspec triggers the most reliable of all my triggers and still be under 4lbs...
 
I have also gone the drop in route one Elfman over $240.00 gives me the most trouble of any trigger i have owned... 2nd drop in Velocity 3lb with / KNS pins so far 100% reliable..

I have learned over time how to make milspec triggers the most reliable of all my triggers and still be under 4lbs...

I'm using the Rise Armamant 3lb. single-stage drop-ins. They're awesome. Got them on sale for $95 each... No complaints here.
 
I'm using the Rise Armamant 3lb. single-stage drop-ins. They're awesome. Got them on sale for $95 each... No complaints here.

That is a good price for a quality drop in ,,, did that include shipping and or tax?

Would you like to trade me straight accross,,, my Elfman for one of your Rise Armamants ?

But even @ $95.00 i would have about $1500.00 in triggers alone... I am a poor man and my trigger mods cost me about $5.00 and a half hour of my time for a 3.5 lb trigger,,, unless i BOB the hammer.
 
My routine is quite similar to the OP's with two modifications:

Trigger: If the stock trigger is poor, I will generally trash it and get an aftermarket trigger. There are several very good aftermarket triggers, but I'm very partial to the 2.5# Hyperfire on my 300 yard egg shooter. It's single stage design that breaks like glass and has an independent hammer spring for reliable ignition.

Wedge: I make a modification to the commercially available Wedge that will result in a a substantially longer, if not permanent life with a secure mating of the upper/lower. In the basic product, the plastic evenually compresses, rendering the product ineffective. I have been using my modified Wedges for several years without fatigue or any harm to the reciever, a common malady of the adjustable cam/pins. I simply drill a 1/8" hole through the center and cut a larger diameter S&W trigger return spring or equivalent to a slightly longer length of the Wedge base so that the spring is compressed sufficiently to form a tight fit. I may do some slight trimming of the Wedge. Once done, that modified Wedge remains with that rifle since rifle/uppers can vary in dimensions(see photo) there should be some slight tension applied when closing to push the rear reciever pin for lock-up of the upper to the lower. Properly done, there will be zero play between the upper and lower.
 

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My routine is quite similar to the OP's with two modifications:

Trigger: If the stock trigger is poor, I will generally trash it and get an aftermarket trigger. There are several very good aftermarket triggers, but I'm very partial to the 2.5# Hyperfire on my 300 yard egg shooter. It's single stage design that breaks like glass and has an independent hammer spring for reliable ignition.

Wedge: I make a modification to the commercially available Wedge that will result in a a substantially longer, if not permanent life with a secure mating of the upper/lower. In the basic product, the plastic evenually compresses, rendering the product ineffective. I have been using my modified Wedges for several years without fatigue or any harm to the reciever, a common malady of the adjustable cam/pins. I simply drill a 1/8" hole through the center and cut a larger diameter S&W trigger return spring or equivalent to a slightly longer length of the Wedge base so that the spring is compressed sufficiently to form a tight fit. I may do some slight trimming of the Wedge. Once done, that modified Wedge remains with that rifle since rifle/uppers can vary in dimensions(see photo) there should be some slight tension applied when closing to push the rear reciever pin for lock-up of the upper to the lower. Properly done, there will be zero play between the upper and lower.

I have a twenty year old AR my first AR i dont remember how long ago i added the wedge but it has been at least if not more than 10 years ago ,,,, it hasnt mushed out/ compressed yet !

Could this be a quality issue such as an accuwedge copy by china or such ?
 
That is a good price for a quality drop in ,,, did that include shipping and or tax?

Would you like to trade me straight accross,,, my Elfman for one of your Rise Armamants ?

But even @ $95.00 i would have about $1500.00 in triggers alone... I am a poor man and my trigger mods cost me about $5.00 and a half hour of my time for a 3.5 lb trigger,,, unless i BOB the hammer.

My bad, they are 3.5 lbs, not 3 lbs. Nah, not really interested in swapping right now. Maybe down the road.

RISE Armament RA-140 Super Sporting Trigger- SST
 
I have a twenty year old AR my first AR i dont remember how long ago i added the wedge but it has been at least if not more than 10 years ago ,,,, it hasnt mushed out/ compressed yet !

Could this be a quality issue such as an accuwedge copy by china or such ?

How well a Wedge works has to do with the tolerances of a particular rifle. All AR's are not created equal. Your AR may have had a smaller space between the base and pin-stud housing, and/or closer tolerances of fit to begin with. There is a limit to how far the Wedge will compress. I have an AR-10 that exhibits a smaller then typical spacing and a standard Wedge has worked out fine. This has not been the case with my three other AR's, and I have seen many others owned by buddies that needed their Wedge replaced on a fairly frequent basis.due to compression. Mine are all Accu-Wedges, not copy's.
 
How well a Wedge works has to do with the tolerances of a particular rifle. All AR's are not created equal. Your AR may have had a smaller space between the base and pin-stud housing, and/or closer tolerances of fit to begin with. There is a limit to how far the Wedge will compress. I have an AR-10 that exhibits a smaller then typical spacing and a standard Wedge has worked out fine. This has not been the case with my three other AR's, and I have seen many others owned by buddies that needed their Wedge replaced on a fairly frequent basis.due to compression. Mine are all Accu-Wedges, not copy's.

Dont know about an ar-10 i dont own one but all my accuwedges have fit snug side to side and to the back Not much room in any of the various brands to mush / compress out . So i havent had your failure experiences ,,,, Yet . I do know there are many copy cats on the market american and foreign...
 
My routine is quite similar to the OP's with two modifications:

Trigger: If the stock trigger is poor, I will generally trash it and get an aftermarket trigger. There are several very good aftermarket triggers, but I'm very partial to the 2.5# Hyperfire on my 300 yard egg shooter. It's single stage design that breaks like glass and has an independent hammer spring for reliable ignition.

Wedge: I make a modification to the commercially available Wedge that will result in a a substantially longer, if not permanent life with a secure mating of the upper/lower. In the basic product, the plastic evenually compresses, rendering the product ineffective. I have been using my modified Wedges for several years without fatigue or any harm to the reciever, a common malady of the adjustable cam/pins. I simply drill a 1/8" hole through the center and cut a larger diameter S&W trigger return spring or equivalent to a slightly longer length of the Wedge base so that the spring is compressed sufficiently to form a tight fit. I may do some slight trimming of the Wedge. Once done, that modified Wedge remains with that rifle since rifle/uppers can vary in dimensions(see photo) there should be some slight tension applied when closing to push the rear reciever pin for lock-up of the upper to the lower. Properly done, there will be zero play between the upper and lower.

Those Hyperfires are nice but very spendy,,,and i like there design,,, about the only 2.5 pound trigger out there,,,that has a 100% detonation even in the winter at 20 below zero...
 
I switched from the Accuwedge to the Accushim from Diamondwheel.com. I use CMC and JP Enterprises triggers on my hunting ARs. I like the Magpul MOE K2 plus over the standard grips due to the angle, fits me better when shooting prone. I square the receivers on my builds. Ace skeleton stock, foam is nice on the cheek in the cold winter.
 
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