Modify or sell?

Ken gun

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Jan 3, 2015
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I have a Savage 116 in 7mm rem mag ss with black Tupperware stock.
I recall it was a weather warrior from around 1996 purchased new. It has a 22" fluted barrel measured by rod down the barrel touching closed bolt with built in muzzle brake that can be turned on or off.

Is this a good platform to invest in a better stock and high quality scope?
Is a 22" barrel is short for a 7 mm?

B&C stock can be $300, trigger work by local smith is $100 to set up for 3 lbs.
Barrels in 24 or 26" could $350 and local guy wants $100 to set up.
Could invest $400 to $750 but not sure if it is wiser to purchase a new gun.
I do like 7mm and hunt in the east so not making shots over 300 yards.
I assume the new barrel could be set up in one of the 7mm mags for a little more power?
Have a new Kimber M84 30-06 with vx3 4-10 power as my other rifle.
Not sure if it is a good starting point
 
Hi Ken, Welcome to LRH!

You're right to question putting more $$ into a 22 inch 7 mag. A 24 inch barrel gets you most of what you want a 7 mag to do. 26 inch or longer is better yet. My 26" 7 mag kicked harder than my 24" 7 mag. This tells me that there is still more powder to be used in a 24" barrel. This rifle probably was intended to be used in really tight woody areas. Like an Eastern woods. 60 yard visibility. Not a good candidate for expensive, high powered glass.
If you really love the rifle, you can get a pre threaded, pre chambered barrel and screw it onto this rifle yourself. With the right tools of course.

If you choose a new rifle you can get some really good options. Like accutrigger, or 26" fluted barrel from several different manufactures. I might would keep this one for a truck gun and build a long barrel one from a target action.
 
If all you have, in actuality, is an action upon which you would build a new rifle, IMO you'd be better off buying a new gun. By the time you guy your parts and pay for the smith work you'll have easily spent about the same money; or more.
 
If you are into DIY projects, keep it. You could end up something like this:
 

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to the original poster....If you interested in modifying the gun there are also people on here that might have barrels, and stocks for sale. Is you 7mag a blind action or center feed. Stainless or blued.
 
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It is stainless steel, how do decide the action type?
Can I get a good 26" barrel for $300, if so who's?
 
If it functions well now and gets the job done, keep it. The more you get into this, DIY is desirable, you'll have the most DIY ease with a Savage, barrels are plentiful used or new, learning to put a barrel on and change triggers isn't rocket science and Savage made this possible for the DIYer years ago. That being said, I like custom jobs with a Rem 700 footprint as they can be customized in more ways with more part availability than all the others combined. But that doesn't mean diddly crap to the average hunter really. So take what I'm saying with a grain of salt. Be safe and enjoy hunting!

Happy New Year to all...
 
IIWM: Keep it.

As for any mods. Well.... There should be a 12 step program to help us addicts quit but there isn't so "carry on".

Seriously, if it shoots, keep it as it is.

If it does not shoot to expectations then start with the little things. Triggers are a one of the best places to start. Mounts and optics of course. I use rails because rails can stay with the receiver while good optics and mounts move from rifle to rifle.

Stocks are a very individual thing. I use Boyds as well and B&C. I would never hesitate to recommend a Boyds. Bed the lug or entire action, float the barrel and it can be very good. You won't feel bad if you botch something on a $100 stock.

The Savage is the Swiss Army knife of bolt action rifles.
 
How do I find a barrel that would be good for hunting vs a heavy target. Should I go with a 26" for 7 mm rem?
Which barrels perform the best for $300?
 
Short doesn't hurt, some think it is the more accurate way. Others want massive powder burn choose length. More length I believe means more vibration, correct me if I'm off base guys. Weight makes a difference in 2 categorizes. 1. are you carrying the monster? 2. How many shots in a row? Accuracy changes with barrel heat I'd guess, most of all. Distance, is there a need for a fast recalculated shot? Noise is a factor if you are close and or dialing. Probably a factor?! maybe not? Hunting or hitting a dime? All factors I'd guess. Great questions to ask, hopefully people with more real life experience will chime in. That's the real value of this site, in some ways. LRH is awesome in many other ways though too. Lots of great people here.

:)
 
Google Northland Shooters Supply for a Shillen or CBI prefit. I have only 1 CBA and several Shillen and all of mine are 1/2 MOA capable or better. 26" varmint is a popular contour but getting a gunsmith to cut 2" off and recrown should not be a big deal. Jim can order you a custom contour (light sporter, heavy sporter, custom length. It does not cost much extra money, you just might have to wait a few months as opposed to possibly having a varmint contour barrel in stock.
 
I had a 7mag re-barreled a couple years ago and had them duplicate the factory sporter contour. Shot well for the first three, but as it warmed up the groups spread a bit. Gun weighed 10 lbs. I had a savage 111 rebuilt with EABCO's heavy varmint contour (muzzle dia. .875") in a6.5/284, gun weighs 13 lbs, shoots well hot or cold. Just built another savage111 with PacNor number 6 contour, fluted in 280 AI, gun weighs 12lbs, shoots great hot or cold. I won't try to go light or short again. These are all 26 inch long tubes, the savages have brakes that add another 1.75" past that. Someone on this site signs posts with a statement that goes like this: Lightweight rifles have the advantage of being lightweight. All other advantages go to the heavy rifle. Works for me.
 
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