MFG brass?

400bull

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2007
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76
Location
Orem, Utah
I'm new to this site and this is my first posting, I apologies if this has already been disguised. A couple years ago inherited all the components that I would need to start doing my own reloading. I've been reading nearly every book/article that I can get my hands on to try and improve the accuracy of my rifle. I've been able to whittle things down to where I can constantly get 1" – 1 ½" groups at 100 yards. That just might be the best that my rifle or I are capable of doing. I would like to get it down to the ½' mark. So here is where my questions come in to play 1) So far I have only used Hodgon 4831SC in my Winchester 270. How much could one gain/loss in accuracy simply by changing to a different powder? Second: I here a lot of reloaders talking about the importance of using the same brass MFG for all their reloads. Any time I'm at the range I pick up any and all 270 brasses that I can get my hands on. How much does different brass MFG affect overall accuracy?

400bull
 
400, make yourself at home. This is a great place with very knowledgable folks who in most cases will help you out with getting to your goal.

You questions are not new, or old, for that matter. They are something that just about every new handloader asks someone at sometime if they are looking to improve the consistancy of their loads.

First things first. You haven't mentioned the type of rifle your shooting, straight factory, had a little work done on it, or straight custom. This will also have an effect on your groups as well. Not that a factory rifle can't be loaded to shoot very well, or that just because it is custom it is guaranteed, but some will do better than others.

Your scope can also make a huge difference in groups as well. If it has a bit of parallax in it then you may or may not be repeating the same sight picture from one shot to the next which will cause you to shoot from just a bit off to a whole bunch off. If this happens to be the case just swapping to another scope could bring your groups in somewhat tighter. IF it is a fixed power, then a variable might also help out. Just things to consider.

If you feel that all of the above is good to go and your serious about cutting your group size then you will have to be serious about your loads. This means making sure that the cases are from the same lot, make, length, and even weight if you want to take it that far. For general hunting rounds I have shot several dump truck loads of range brass reloads. They generally group about what your getting. I do not mix them in with cases I have purchased new, they are simply the ones I use when hunting in the real thick stuff or when I want to head out for simple plinking. First off pick yourself up a hundred cases in your choice or brand. I generally use Winchester for most calibers based off the .30-06, however Remington, and Federal are both good as well.

After getting your cases you will want to at least run the expander ball through the necks to be sure they are all concentric. Sometimes they get a little dinged up during shipping. Then go through and measure several, I generally will do 20 to get an overal average of the lengths. Then I will take the shortest one which I set aside, and set my trimmer to at least cut the full face of the case. After setting the lenght on the trimmer, I will trim the whole batch to this length, and debur them all. At this point you have 100 cases ready to load, however there are a few more steps you can do which "may" help you shrink the groups down a smidge. One is to debur the flash hole, another is to uinform the primer pockets, and still another is to weigh out your cases and seperate them into groups. The weighing should be the last thing done. If and when you debur the flash hole you should only use enough pressur to feel the bur being removed. Once it is gone you will feel the cutter moving on top of smooth brass and that is when you stop.

I would also suggest looking at at least one or two other powders. I have shot some nice groups using H-4831, but I have shot a lot more using IMR - 4350, IMR-3031, and now Ramshot Hunter. I have tried close to a dozen more powders as well, but the ones mentioned consistantly groups better and were muchmore consistante over the long run.

I would pick a bullet that you feel should cover anything your likly to hunt. Be it 130, 140, or whatever. I would seat it .020" off the lands to begin with and work up a load which shows promise. Then tweak it in seating a little deeper. This might not be the norm, but I have seen rifle shoot just as tight a group seated back as far as .100" off the lands as right on them. For a hunting load in a repeating rifle you want reliability, and functional feeding. Some of the newer bullet tips will sometims hang in the front of the magazine when chambering a round that is pushing the limit of the magizine length. I would rather have something that will feed smoothly and still shoot around 1" than something that is going to hang up during chambering, and will shoot .5".

As for the primers, I personally use WIN-WLR by and far the most over any other type. They have given consistant ingnition on loads for several calibers for many years. Other swear by this or that, and I have them all on hand. If the Win's just don't get it done then I will switch. I have found that if I don't hit a decent load with a particular powder within a certian load range I will then switch primers. After you have loaded for a while you will find that certian case sizes will generally preform somewhere in the same ball park for powder weights. Like the '06 sized cases, they seem to hit a decent load with medium to slower powders in the 54 - 58gr range. From my experience it really hasn't mattered wether it was necked down or not. The case will hold around 62grs of water roughly and with the mid 50 gr loads your hitting 75% - 95% load density and this generally works out for a nice load.

If I were to recommend a good all around load for this caliber, it would be a 130gr bullet seated over some Ramshot Hunter, either IMR-4350 or H-4350, and lit using a Win-WLR or Fed210.

Good Luck and I hope you can pick through some of this to get to your desired goal.
 
400,
Welcome aboard.

Here's my two cents worth.

First everything that 41Mag said is spot on.

I'd stick with winchester brass. It has more case volume than most others.

My largest difference was using nonmag Large Rifle (CCI 200) primers.

Keep wittlin'r down. You're headed in the right direction.

For bullets I'd recommend Sierrea 130 SPBT, Nosler 150 Ballistic Tips and Hornady 140 BTSP interlocks. The go to powder used to be Norma 205 the Norma MRP but are hard to get. RL-22 is the go to powder now but word on the street (here) has it getting very inconsistent.:mad:
 
I should have thought and included some details on what I am currently doing. I am currently shooting for the most part a factory straight Winchester 270 Lightweight. I say for the most part because I have adjusted the trigger down some. Don't know the exact weight because I don't have a scale. I have also bedded the lug. I know that I should have also bedded the action while I was at it. With it being the first time trying to do a glass bedding I did not want to permanently attach the action to the stock. Other then those two modifications it is completely a factory rifle. Setting on top of the rifle is a Nikon 3-9X50 Buckmaster scope.

Without having my reloading notes right here in front of me I'll try me best to give you as much info as I can on my reloading procedures. As mentioned before most of my brass has been picked up from the local range. So they very from Win, to Remington, PMC, how knows what else. To start the reloading process I first run the brass through the tumbler to clean them up. I then I then de-prim and run a ball-expander through the neck. Once I have then de-primed the case, I then trim to length and de-bur the neck. I then proceed to prim each case with a CCI large rifle primer 250. I think that it's the 250, ether ways it's the Magnum CCI larger rifle primer. I feel the case with 59 grains of H4831SC and ten top it with a Hornady 130 SP seated .015" off the lands. With this set up I can constantly get 1"- 1 ½" groups at a 100 paces with and occasional ¾" thrown in there.

I've tried several other bullets (Hornady SST, Nosler Partition and Ballistic tip, Barnes X and TSX) and have been able to duplicate the same results with more or less powder but have not been able to get any better groupings. I guess I might be at that point where I really need to start paying attention too the most minuet details.


Thanks

400bull
 
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